Thread: Workbench top

Hey mate,

Your best bet is using a jointer plane. Here is a link that might help - PLANING TABLE TOP

I'd also like to see a pic of your bench!

Andy

Thanks
any ideas how to fill the cracks. If you do should I do it before or after the planing

Here are some pictures of my workbench top

First what glue did you use?
Are there void space in the joints and how much. Can you poke a bit of card in to get an idea. If the gaps are full of glue perhaps itis ok.
Looking at the pics I am concerned by that long center gap and it may be best to rip along it, joint both edges and reglue. It is hard to get an idea just from pics however.
A quicker but less good looking fix would be the following. If worried about it holding together it is better to get that sorted now. Block up both edges with wood and dance on the middle. If it is solid then just fill any gaps with the same glue (add sawdust optional) and plane flat as normal.
Regards
John

The center gap in the middle had not been joined yet in the picture and is being stuck together as we speak the glue I used was PVA Aquadhere wood glue the little gaps in the wood are max 1mm.
Secondly what is card.
I biscuits joined every piece of wood together and I think that is what is giving the small gaps I used 200 biscuits so the top is strong. I was thinking could I go over the top with a belt sander as I don't have a joiner plane then when it is kind of flat go over it with a no. 4 plane.

I will post a pic up when the glue has dried.

Thanks CMwood

CMwood,
I was suggesting you see if anything can be inserted in the gaps to get an idea what is sound. Cardboard, paper, thin metal or anything that shows where there is no contact. Unfortunately pva is not a gap filling glue so filling the voids now will not really improve the strength. AS the last join is now in the clamps I reckon just see how it turns out first. I would then do a strength test (when dry so give it 2 days) as I mentioned before. If it holds up then continue with the bench.
As for flattening a belt sander can work but can also do a lot of damage if you let it.
I have seen some ugly looking glue ups when just out of the clamps that scrub up real well planed flat and smooth so dont loose heart yet.
Regards
John

I have just been planing the top and the cracks are not to big I could barely fit a piece of paper down and the bench feels strong. I was wondering if there is any substance or glue that is worth buying to wipe over the gapes and fell them in. I don't think strength is an issue I just don't like the look of the gaps. I was also thinking that the finish might fill in little gaps even though I don't know what I am using yet.

I will post up a pic when I have finished planing.

Thanks CMwood

CMwood,
That sounds like it is not too bad after all. If you are happy that it is strong enough. I think that a finish of boiled linseed oil should fill gaps like that. BLO being the traditional bench finish. If you want to fill the gaps first then I would use the same glue mixed with fine sawdust of the same wood. A commercial wood filler would also do but colour matching can be so so. It seldom is like the picture on the tin. I guess it comes down to how furnature like you want the bench top to be.
By the way how are you getting along planeing with the No4.
Keep the pics coming.
Regards.

Here are some pics of my workbench the NO.4 plane is hard to use because it is not just taking off the high spots and I am thinking of buying a cheep joiner plane do you have any ideas.

Thanks CMwood

I have been wondering if there is a curtain width for the apron around the bench top. I bought some Veritas bench dogs from Carba-Tec and I was just going to go with 100mm or 127mm (the same as the Lie-Nielsen) but then thought I beater check. Also is there a curtain angle you have to cut when making the dado's for the dogs and if to have to cut larger at the top of the dado for the design of the dog.

Thanks CMwood

Hi CMwood,
OK starting to look like a bench top.
This is just my take on the job and perhaps others may have differing views. I would leave the top for now while you build the legs. Let it rest a bit and stabilise with the conditions in your work area. It will be easier to flatten sitting on the legs than trying to do it on the floor. You may find a old plane or two by then also. Put bits of timber under it for now to get air under it.
As for a curtain around it, well a top that thick should be ok without one.
I cant help with the dog holes as I am not shure what they look like but usually square holes are cut in the wood before glue up. Round holes can be drilled easier.
Where are you located? Perhaps a fellow member is just round the corner.
Regards
John

Just looked again. It is off the floor.

I agree about getting it off the floor and letting it stabilize. You have to be happy that the gaps are not structurally an issue and you can live with them. I would tend to flatten then fill with epoxy resin possibly mixed with sander dust.

In terms of attacking the flattening of the top my approach would be to uses a scrub plane to debulk the high spots (Your looks quite flat allready) and then use a No 6 or 7 or any type of long jointer to flatten. then a 4.5 to smooth these should be affordable of trade me or ebay

I think groggy has a video of how he approached his somwhere here maybe someone can link you

Originally Posted by kiwioutdoors

I think groggy has a video of how he approached his somwhere here maybe someone can link you

See this post