Thread: The workbench top finishing debate!

Traditionally, you do not apply finish to a work bench top.

So that when it comes time to be trued up again you just plane it flat again without worrying about removing old finishes or damaging your plane.

I finished my silver ash and jarrah workbench top with Wipe on Poly. It's got nicks and dents, scratches and dings in it, but I don't care. I love using such beautiful timber for my workbench, but I built it knowing I'd have to sand it back and refinish it. Oh and drips of shellac will eat down to the timber in nothing flat. But that's ok. I knew the risks when I built it. Why on earth did I do that? Because I can

cheers
Wendy

My 19mm ply top is now 2 years old well and truly dented and dinged and now soaked in canola and chainsaw bar oil after several lengthy chainsaw repairs on it earlier this year.

The ~500 mL of canola was first and went rancid (Pong!) but in the next few weeks several litres of bar oil leaked out and made a real mess. I can just see it - One match and the top will burn like a giant flare! Still it's only 19 mm construction ply and designed to be replaced - it has worked hard for two years. I might replace it next year

I use two sheets of 3/4" (19mm) MDF. Makes for a 38mm thick top that you can hammer on, drill on, get glue on, etc... When it gets too nasty, the whole thing can be flipped over for a brand new surface. It's not pretty, in fact it's just as ugly and flat as my sister-in-law, but it's functional.

Originally Posted by silentC

Don't you guys read the paper?

The bench before featured bits of the one issue where the glue had dropped through and stuck the paper to it as well as the workpiece. After half a dozen years reading about the same deathly accident during glue-ups, I sploshed paint on it!

Now, in my non-stick form, I get to change the paper every month or so!

Good point though, and well made too!

Cheers,

P

I think I saw a 'tip' once from a guy who was worried about getting glue all over his lovely bench top, so he installed a glad wrap dispenser on the end of his bench and put a roll of wax paper on it. He rolls it out over the bench and clamps it at the far end. Then when he's finished the horrible messy glue up, he tears it off and throws it away. That might appeal to some people perhaps. A bit wasteful to my mind.

One of the advantages of having the ugliest bench in existence (mine is called Frankenstein) is that you don't worry too much about such things.

I have a masonite false top but both the top and the false top are waxed to stop glue sticking. Has worked so far but the top is only two months old.

I always put down some tiger baking paper for glueups and finishing, and for when I'm dying or sealing leather. Great as impromptu tracing or pattern paper too. the biggest box available permanently resides in my shed now.

once shellac'ed, ya never go back! I used a few coats of shellac. Offers some moisture protection, and is 100% reversible. I buffed it back with 00 steel wool so it wasn't too slippy.

Wipe on poly because I had some in the tin.

I spilled about 100ml of Tung oil on my MDF top, now when it rains and the water leaks from the workshop roof I have one spot that doesn't expand

I'm not averse to using greaseproof on the odd occasion.
I use newspaper, cling wrap. baby powder, paper towels,Tissues, toilet paper; whatever fits the job.
On other occasions I've been known to use bad language.

I have the 19mm form ply (construction ply)for my top the bench frame is steel with adjustable legs I have a series of 20 mm holes drilled through that takes hand operated hyd rams (saves clamps)that I use for glueing and fitting.When I spill glue or paint I just sand it off been using it for 8 years now and still in good shape

Referring to my earlier post about using boiled linseed oil.
When I first built my bench it was to the Frank Klaus design in FWW. He said the only maintenance it needed was to use a scraper once a year to make sure the top was true. Use has shown me he was right Boiled linseed oil means the bench is moisture proof. My bench is often has the water trough and Japanese water stones on it and is under water for an hour or so. It is reasonably glue proof because I just attack the drips with a scraper when they are dry and they come off without trouble. So for cheapness and practicality once more I say I'm with the oilers