Thread: a workbench to make a workbench

Here's a couple of shots of the edging before glueup. Seeing as I'm on my own, I fitted a spline down the middle to help locate it while glueing. The cardboard core routes very easily, which shouldn't surprise I suppose. Edging is glued on now, with PVA, should have used epoxy for a bit more working time

Now can anybody spot the error in the underside of the table from the earlier post?

Cheers
Michael

I'd never have thought of using a spline that way. Not in cardboard! It obviously worked, though.

I gather that you think that PVA will be good enough given the small gluing area? I'd be concerned that with a few knocks it'd start to seperate. This isn't a criticism, I'm just wondering. (I'm of the redgum sleeper school of bench. They're more appropriate for my level of incompetence.)

Originally Posted by mic-d

Now can anybody spot the error in the underside of the table from the earlier post?

Iwould've said your buttons were upside-down. The way they are now leaves no room for adjustment in case of future shrinkage; t'other way up it's easy to shave a bit off the button and snug it up tight again.

However, somehow I suspect that's not what you have in mind.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

I'd never have thought of using a spline that way. Not in cardboard! It obviously worked, though.
The guy at Sharp plywood recommended I do that, otherwise I wouldn't have thought of it either. He also showed me a sample where a hard edging was inlayed in a rebate in the carboard.
I gather that you think that PVA will be good enough given the small gluing area? I'd be concerned that with a few knocks it'd start to seperate. This isn't a criticism, I'm just wondering. (I'm of the redgum sleeper school of bench. They're more appropriate for my level of incompetence.)

I was planning on using Techniglue, but I was chatting to RV and he expressed the utmost confidence in crosslinking PVA, so I decided to use it instead. Having done so and with due deference to the master, it grabbed a bit fast for my liking and was a bit runny so may have starved the top the joint a bit. If I had eight arms and a better technique I have no doubt that PVA would be fine. The pastier consistency and slower set of epoxy would have suited this job better.





Iwould've said your buttons were upside-down. The way they are now leaves no room for adjustment in case of future shrinkage; t'other way up it's easy to shave a bit off the button and snug it up tight again.

However, somehow I suspect that's not what you have in mind.

Nope that's it. First time I've done buttons. I came inside looked under my old refectory table for how to do em, went back out, came back in, went back out and carefully placed them in upside down
I can say though, I cut my rebates a little low so they would wedge in, got it right in about 1. I have much to learn. The good news is the Oregon is umpteen years old so should not shrink further.

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

If I had eight arms and a better technique I have no doubt that PVA would be fine. The pastier consistency and slower set of epoxy would have suited this job better.

And don't forget the 3 extra sets of eyes. I've found that lightly clamping those cheap chaiwanese F-clamps on each end can help align the ends you're not actively working on, while still providing enough slip that you don't need to keep taking 'em on & off to position the wood properly.

Nope that's it. First time I've done buttons. I came inside looked under my old refectory table for how to do em, went back out, came back in, went back out and carefully placed them in upside down
I can say though, I cut my rebates a little low so they would wedge in, got it right in about 1. I have much to learn.

Given that the top is removable, I think I'd have run the rebate the full length of the apron, and cut the buttons with a 'T'-shape, also rounding off the leading edge of the arm of the button that locks in so it's sort of a... well... a cam-action type doover.

Then removing the top would be as simple as backing off the screws and reaching under to use the "spare arm" of the T as a lever to unlock it.

I hope that makes sense? Not that I've ever actually done this myself, but it's something I've thought about occasionally.

The good news is the Oregon is umpteen years old so should not shrink further

The assembly table is finished, pushed against a wall and is accumulating 'stuff'. It is much more rigid than I gave the design credit for, and slightly heavier than I expected, so there will be no winching it up the the ceiling, with or without top. This puts me in a bit of a predicament with making the Roubo Bench, I just do no have the floor space for both benches (well I would but SWMBO still wants her car space). I have another tricky idea though that will require some help from you clever design people out there, and which I'll continue on over here:
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f187/wip-roubo-bench-80636

Cheers
Michael

Well done, it looks good and sturdy.