Thread: A beginners challenge

The knob actually looks good on that box, nicely sized & suits the barrel shape.



The only problem I've found with olands is that it can be a PITA sharpening them. I like to remove the tip so I can lay it flat on a sharpening platform to control the grind which, with hard woods, means grub screw out, grub screw in. Grub screw out, grub screw in.

I have one that uses a wing-nut setup, but it keeps catching on the tool-rest or the rim of the bowl or...

I wonder how a collet chuck on the end would go?

That's a nice little box, I don't think that there is anything wrong with basic - and it is very neat and tidy!!!

One thing that surprised me was the legth of the - don't know what it's called, the bit that goes up into the lid when it's closed? I've been making mine very short so that I don't have too much space to seperate the pattern of the grain.

Skew - I'm putting the Oland tool in my Tru-Grind jig and treating it as a swept back gouge. I was actually a little heavy handed last time I sharpened it so the shape is odd but it still works fine.

I mark my gouges with the Tru-Grind leg setting and the distance the slider needs to be out. This makes it pretty quick to set up the jig, subject to checking it with some ink on the bevel.

Eliza - yes, about 1/2". At this stage I'm doing (mainly) what RR says to do. Next few boxes are going to be concentrating on getting the join just right.

Never thought of that.

One day I'll set up my TruGrind... something I've been meaning to do ever since I received it some... 6 months(?) ago.

I gotta get round to filing a flat on top though for the clamp to sit square on so the alignment is always right. I'm eyeballing it at the moment.

My aim with the next box was to get the lid to fit well and take pictures of that process.

I managed to get two more blanks out of my piece of cedar but I had to cut and turn away loads of wood to get rid of all the cracks - the best part went in the first box. The shape of this box is largely determined by what was left afterwards!

Forming the flange on the lid - again done with the square scraper. The flange should have parallel sides and this can be checked with an inside spring caliper. Set the caliper at the end of the flange and pull it slowly out. It should just touch the sides all the way. Adjust with the scraper until it does.

When finally adjusting the flange on the base to fit the lid, hold the lid lightly against the base as it spins. This will leave a burnish mark. With the skew as a scraper remove a little from the flange on the left of the burnish mark so that the bit with the burnish mark becomes the high point. The lid should then fit loosely enough to easily turn but there will be some resistance to removing it as it forms a slight vaccuum.

Took a few goes with very light scrapes with the skew to get there but the lid fits very well.

The base cracked when it was on the jam chuck - guess it was too tight . I repaired the crack with CA glue and sanded and refinished the base. Didn't dare rechuck it so cut the tenon off with a saw and sanded the bottom.

Onions, oranges, now a mushroom!

The lid is green banksia so it will probably split but you never know.

your doing well Keith....RR would be proud

Keep 'em coming Keith!

I've got another one coming Jeff! Nearly finished but I was getting to that tired stage where bad things happen so (unusually) I was sensible and stopped. I'll finish tomorrow with any luck.

Ed - I don't think RR would be proud of my hollowing technique - what takes him around 10 seconds takes me, lets say ... a little longer

Originally Posted by kdm

Ed - I don't think RR would be proud of my hollowing technique - what takes him around 10 seconds takes me, lets say ... a little longer

Don't follow the RR technique for hollowing boxes. Ken W, (and the bugger is a master on boxes ), has shown me and others a better way.

If I can find one of my earlier posts, I'll send it. The method is completely safe and lets you hollow end-grain from inside to out with plenty of supporting wood.

I've started to get fairly aggressive with this cut - it doesn't take long to hollow a small box I assure you!

Jeff I did find your comments on hollowing very useful (I use my Oland tool and don't bore a depth hole but otherwise follow the method). They are in the What's the deal with boxes thread and are as follows;

"The end grain hollowing techniques described are not the only options - and in my mind can be dangerous on hard Oz timbers and particularly for beginners.

A much safer way has been shown to me recently. It's slow but almost "Jeff-proof" and this is how it goes:

- bore a depth hole just above the bottom of your intended hollow with a drill bit in the tailstock
- use a "long and strong" detail gouge with a long fingernail grind (rest set for right on centre)
- tilt the gouge at 45 degrees, flute facing you, just inside the depth hole
- then simply pull the gouge from inside to out, using your left hand to control the cut
- try 1mm cuts and then some more, depending on the wood and your skill level
- as you near the rim, you MUST push the handle away from you (the reason for this is that you don't want to expose the wide wing of the gouge to the side grain).

It works a treat and is very simple compared with the back-hollowing technique that Raffan describes."

Keith,

It's not my method, but one that Ken W showed me. I've found - especially with a Tormek-sharp chisel - I can be fairly / very aggressive with the cuts. I wish I could post a short U-Tube type DVD of Ken at work. He makes it look very easy, even on stuff that is very, very hard.

I'll talk with the Anal one. I think it's time he gave the crew (at least in Victoria) a lesson or three on boxes. Free of charge of couse! Finials as well!

The bugger can turn.... And talk at the same time, which confounds me.

The thing I like about the cut is that it's completely safe - at least if you are careful as you near the side grain and don't poke the chisel into end grain when you are finished.

This one is a tribute to Cindy Droza.

Attachment 113024

Attachment 113025

Attachment 113026

And one to give an idea of scale.

Attachment 113014

Made from silky oak with jarrah inset ring and foot.

The method is almost exactly the same as the first box just the inset ring and foot are different. There is a video of Cindy doing a demo in which she makes a box like this at http://www.woodworkingchannel.com/do...eo_library.php To see it scroll across to AAW within the video library box (you have to wait for that to load) and then down to Cindy Droza.

It was really scary pulling out the lid from the jam chuck, I made it too tight and there is only the finial to pull on to get it back out. I thought about putting it in the fridge for a bit but got it out before I did that. Would that help?