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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    The grinder with a stripping disk made short work of the top of the bed but it's going to be a pain getting into all the other spots, too narrow for even a small grinder. Luckily most of the rust was on top so I can probably just hit problem areas with paint stripper to get back to bare metal. .
    If its only light rust and you can't get at it with the angle grinder I wouldn't bother to try and strip it all back but just use a rust converter on it.
    If you can't put the item in a bath the converter I prefer is tannic acid (TA) as it leaves a smoother surface than other converters so painting over it leaves a better finish.
    The disadvantages are that TA requires a number of coats, and the cost (look up Fertan).
    The bare surface it leaves behind is more rust resistant than phosphoric acid (PA) based converters provided the surface is not physically disturbed (i.e. TA rubs off more easily than PA) but as an interim step prior to painting it is fine and once penetrated and covered by paint this does not matter.

    It's possible to make tannic acid converter yourself using food grade tannic acid powder, a few drops of phosphoric acid and a pH meter.
    Unfortunately the powder is usually only available is large quantities which is enough for several DIY lifetimes of use.
    Last year I bought the makings and use the recipe on the Canada website see Restoring Metal objects and surfaces
    If anyone local wants some I can provide it at cost which is $4/L

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    1,813

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    I would love to take you up on that offer to buy some TA Bob, there are a ton of projects I'd be able to use it on. I'll drop you a line soon.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,788

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    Quote Originally Posted by bueller View Post
    i would love to take you up on that offer to buy some ta bob, there are a ton of projects i'd be able to use it on. I'll drop you a line soon.
    ok.

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

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    Made up a replacement badge for the VL200 in GIMP like a month ago but I slacked off trying to find someone to print it for me, made some calls at lunch today and Fitzgerald Photo are going to take a crack at it. Still waiting on a price but shouldn't be too pricey.

    Edit: $25 for the badge. Doing it on brushed aluminium for me too.





  6. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

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    Decided to focus on the bed and stand separately, was just too much work getting them both stripped down at the same time. Have the legs all prepped for paint and will continue on with the bed on the weekend. Couple more weeks and I should be home!




  7. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Perth, Australia
    Posts
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    Picked up the badge this morning! It's not perfect but it should do the job.


  8. #67
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    First coat down on the stand. Went with Hammerite Smooth Black, it's pretty easy to apply with a brush but it can be a bit hard getting a smooth finish on the areas that aren't perfectly flat. Not a huge deal, I'll sand any rough spots out and it should touch up fine.

    In typical fashion it's going to be 36 degrees here in Perth tomorrow but hopefully it will be cool enough in the evening to continue.




  9. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
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    Got paint down on all sides of the stand now, during the week I'll be sanding all the high spots down and then giving it another light finish coat.

    Liking the Hammerite Smooth but you need to use decent brushes if you want the finish to come out good. The first side I painted with a 3 pack of brushes I bought for $25 dollars and it looked really rough. Went down and bought a couple of Monarch Razorback sash brushes and that made a huge difference. You can get away with a lot more in the hammered finish so not so necessary with that.

    Another warning with Hammerite paint is you have to use their thinners if you want to clean your brushes properly. You'll get them 90% clean with normal thinners but repeated use will eventually build up in the brush. I ruined 3 of my nicest brushes before I figured that out.




  10. #69
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
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    Have I mentioned how much I hate painting? Sanded everything down and applied a second coat on the leg brace. Should be able to finish the rest of the legs tomorrow and then I can move onto the bed. Really going to try and race to finish this for Christmas so I can try some turning over the break.





    Going to have to invest in a spray gun for the next restoration, it's just so time consuming painting by brush on larger machines. All in good time!

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
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    Knocked up something I could mount the legs to so I could paint them all in one hit, made life much easier. Wish I had of thought of it earlier!





    So I'll call the legs 99% done, I need to touch up a few little spots but that can be done once they're assembled. Going to hunt down some new fasteners first as the old ones were quite rusty, not in a mad rush though as I want to give the paint about a week to set. Starting the bed tomorrow, got it almost paint and rust free now so just a quick bit of prep and I can start taping off for paint.

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    Did some work shaping the badge and drilling the rivet holes. Wandered off the mark on one of the holes but nothing hugely noticeable. Funnily enough today I finally found a similar era VL200 with the same speeds and in-tact badge, turns out the first speed is actually 232 rpm. No matter, I've actually decided to upgrade it to a three phase motor with VFD so it will just be there for aesthetics. Just waiting on some number punches to arrive off eBay so I can put the serial and manufacture date on.

    Also going to get paint down on the bed tonight, was tough work getting it fully rust free but I'm happy with the state of it now. Just need to tape off the ways, plug the holes and then I'm ready to paint.

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Perth, Australia
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    Home stretch baby! One side done, this was way too large to hang or bolt up so it will take probably a week to get through painting after flipping it a few times. Luckily the hammered finish hides a lot of mistakes so I don't need to be anywhere near as pedantic as I was with the legs.






  14. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    Lots of progress on the bed, weather has been pretty warm in Perth the last couple of days so I've been able to get coats down every 12 hours or so. Should have all the painting done by the end of this weekend 😊





    Also enquired with Vicmarc about getting a handbrake wheel and outboard sanding disk, waiting to hear back on pricing.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
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    68
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    9,417

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    nice
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
    Posts
    5,713

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    Very impressive resto

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

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