Thread: My Man Cave

Well things have started to progress. Concrete in place, 32 MPA geeezzz. I cured the slab for a week watering as advised. So far no cracks Mind you to be fully cured will take awhile yet.

The carpenters started Wednesday 20/12 and the frame was up in a day. Even thou the base plate of the steel frame is bitumen coated I had an extra dampcourse put in place. No major issues erecting the frame however there were a few blow outs (5) with the hold down bolts. I will have these rectified and new bolts installed. Not sure what happened I had set out and squared the job up, however the rear corner the last 3m basically ran from nil to 20 mm out of line /square. I dare say the concreters ran there last board to the wrong side of the string line, my fault I should have checked once all the boxing was in place, figured you just had to follow the line was not a hard ask . I will install a steel plate to support the wall and chem set it in place, will not be noticed, of course I know its there and it annoys me.

Thursday and Friday where filled with installing all the trimmers, outriggers, patio beam, bracing, roof battens and truss hold downs. Both days were a bit of a rush to be ready for a frame inspection late Friday. One poor bugger spent two days welding, the brackets to hold the trusses down showed on the trusses engineered plans every truss to have a bracket bolted to the top plate, looks like a 16 mm bolt and then two screws into the truss. The bracket to the truss was then fully welded. Now that is over kill, (BLOODY STRONG). even all the outriggers where also welded and they were 40x40x3 mm box section. Lets say he was happy to finish the 2nd day. I dare say I will have to pay for an extra day of welding, as these plans only came the day before they started and would not have been allowed for.

I'm also pleased to say the inspection past.

Saturday, three people turned up to install the fascia and roof. Only to get a call to say there were not enough brackets to install the fascia's and 90% of the roof sheeting were all short by 150 mm. F##K me what else could go wrong. This is the first job I have ever let others do the take off. I used one company to supply EVERYTHING except doors and windows to lock up stage. I did not want to mess about with using multiple groups as I figure it would be easier using one supplier, I can say this has not been the case. So no roof on and I have just fired off an email to the company to rectify as a matter of urgency. A pity they are not open till the 02/01/18.

I will say I was in the suppliers office on the 19th and said the fascia's are not on the order which he quickly fixed as he could not get the estimator to say what he needed. I worked out the lengths required. I then said have your man check them as I just worked it out in my head. While I was there I was told there was too much and the patio length was way to big. Guess which fascia came out SHORT GRRRRRRRRRRRRR.
All I could do, was put my sign up and laugh while wetting the roof as the saying goes. Don't know many builders that do this anymore.
Compacting the Base.jpgTermite Protection in Place2.jpgPeir Hole.jpgSlab poured.jpgTruck Delivery.jpg
The new termite protection is now plastic sheeting. My pier holes 1.2 x .6 just for the 4 post I had. Will need to download more photos from my phone to bring this all up to day.

Ok,

Here are some more photos, these should bring this thread up to date. Am missing a couple of photos will have to track down and post.
Tree Removal.jpgHad to remove a tree figured I'd miss this with the building, I should have know better they way this has been going lol. Frame entry door.jpgFrame main door.JPGFrame taking shape.JPGFrame taking shape2.JPGBolts.jpgBracket weld.jpgOutriggers.jpgOutriggers2.jpgFascia2.jpg
While there has been some downsides, I'm getting excited to get into the workshop layout and work out where everything is going to go and where all the power points will go. I'm still not even sure what I'm lining the walls with, the ceiling most likely will be plasterboard. More updates to follow.

Great to see you've made so much progress now.
I'm impressed with the eves on your shed. Being in QLD that's what I want on my dream shed also.

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Maybe a new fence too... that one is looking a bit scabby

lol yes not the best looking fence. Its just got that bamboo on chain wire and its on the neighbours side. Figure I'll hide it with the shed , no windows really down that side, too speak of. My eves are a tad under 900 mm which I'm hoping will add in greater shading. I have also allowed to have two whirly birds to be fitted again to help in reducing head in the ceiling void.

Welcome to the new year everyone. A quick start for me was a phone call to the supply company to replace all the roof sheeting along with the other gear not supplied that is required to complete the roofing section.

I also noticed a couple of errors on my part. When the wife wanted hardi plank and not custom orb sheeting as the exterior cladding I forgot to have bigger styles placed on the door and windows jambs to cover for the 12mm thermal break, a requirement on steel frames. So will have to have an extrusion placed on the inside not a biggie just a pita. My 2nd error I had a step down for my door which was only meant to be 20 mm the concreters used a 38mm piece of timber, I did not notice this till the boxing was taken off. So currently about to build it up by 20 mm otherwise its way to low. That's what I get for not being onsite for the final bits and pieces prior to the pour (dammit). Again not a biggie just one I have to fix it.
Sign.jpg My sign Door fix.jpgDoor fix 1.jpg Minor fix, Will use Ardit as its self levelling and will set like concrete.

The Ardit worked a treat and my doorway is now at the correct height with about a 10 mm step down.
Ardit finish.jpg

Plan.jpg
This is my shed plan apart from a couple of minor alterations, the middle post in the patio area was not installed, and the window on the left wall is now on the same wall as the patio.
Dust side.jpg
At this stage I plan on installing a dust extraction unit to the wall at the rear of the shed, not exactly sure where on this wall as I have approximately 4 metres from the small window to the rear corner. I will have a air conditioning unit installed on the left hand side wall basically where the window was removed so need to consider this.

I'm already looking at an addition to the shed I have 3 m available from the left side of the shed to the fence so thinking of a skillion roof and light walls. Currently the area is concreted. My reason is simple I been looking at what I have and I don't want the cement mixer or garden tools in my shed, anyway this will also provide some cover for the pool pump etc. This structure will need to be a bolt together system as its an easement and if there is ever a need for access at least it can just be unbolted. Damn shed getting bigger already lol.

Found out my replacement roof sheets will not be here till mid to end of next week. I'm now looking forward to the interior lining. Ceiling is easy as it will be plasterboard. The walls, while cost is an issue its not a driving factor and a number of options.

Plaster
Pro - easy to install - cost efficient to purchase $600 - easy to paint - easy to repair - readily available - wife likes it
Con - Cost to set off - easily damaged - not a great lining for a workshop.

Ply
Pro - easy to install - less likely to damage - easy to attach items off stud - has tongue and grove version - 12 mm thick - - cost efficient $1300 - readily available
Con - depend on grade may not be visually appealing (knot holes) - preparation and painting - wife not a fan (knot holes).

VJ
Pro - less likely to be damaged - tongue and grove - visually appealing - wife likes it
Con - More expensive $1500 - MDF - 9 mm thick - more preparation before installing - preparation and painting - not a stocked item in Darwin - needs to join on a stud - installation requirements

Villaboard / fibro
Pro - easy to install - cost efficient to purchase - less likely to be damaged - visually appealing - easy to prepare and paint - readily available - wife likes it
Con - 6 mm - Cost to set off - harder to attach items off stud - I'm not a fan lol

I'm sure people will have there own Pro and Cons to add and to be honest if I think about it, there is no right or wrong lining to use, simply what works will do the trick. At the end of the day all will be painted and as for mounting off stud this really is not a major issue. Its not hard to install French cleats / peg board on the walls. I plan some long benches and cupboard stowage so there will not be a huge amount hanging on the walls. That's what I'm saying now lol.

I also need to consider at some stage in the future, the workshop will be converted to a self contained residence so this is also on my mind re the lining.

As for electrical side of things I will be discussing this will the electrician tomorrow. Hopefully my plan works and I end up with enough points to cover everything plus spares including 3 exterior weather points, 3/4 15 amp point and everything else doubles. I did notice the steel frame has NO holes to allow cabling so everything will need to be drilled, poor design. I figure it would be much easer without the roof or exterior walls on to put the holes in.

At least things are moving forward.

In light of the future use as a residence, villaboard is the answer. As far as off stud fixing, use french cleats then all you you will need do is set and sand the mounting holes for the cleats.

Definitely ply.

Paint it to improve the visual appearance.
You can then screw almost anything anywhere. It will actually save you money.

When you finally turn it into a dwelling you can cover it with new plaster board or something if you feel its really necessary.

Whatever you do don't use MDF anything. Especially in the humid tropics.




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The ply would have to be H3 grade for tropics for termite. Could use Red tongue sheet flooring, its termite graded and solid fixing everywhere

Stick everything on wheels , you really only need a big bench nailed to the wall and perhaps your drop saw other than that if everything is movable you can do whatever you want , I put the table saw , the jointer , the bandsaw , the thicknesser , the big router and bench grinder and the Mig and the Tig all on wheels , unless used they are in use they go up against the far wall. If you can afford it get the sparky to run the whole shed in 15 amp or more and I reckon at least four double GPO's per wall , I have a breaker box by the entry door with the main isolator killing every thing in the shed (not good if you have a fridge going) but it is a safe way to leave the shed.

To say things have hit a wall is an understatement. With the roof sheeting initially all short and unable to be installed, this was the beginning of a long delay. As I type my roof is not on and I'm not sure when it will be installed. I have the sheets just not the tradies they had to leave for another job. Then of course 700 mm of rain did not help (sigh).

I almost got excited the tradies returned to Darwin last Monday to do my roof Tuesday, naturally it POURED and with the forecast for rain the remainder of the week, it was agreed they go, so they left again (dammit). Murphy's Law sprang into action as its been fine ever since they left -- go figure.

Currently I have issues with all the welds starting to rust and some of the trusses have also filled with water. Now, I'm wire brushing all rusted welds, coating with zinc primer and a top coat, as for the water in the trusses, out with the drill and drill a hole in all bottom cords and rafters. Guess I can be pleased there is only 9 trusses so only 36 holes to drill. The drill bits I'm using must be shi$ as I have broken at least 6 and this just slows the whole process down.

As for the electrical side, this is a task on its own. I had drilled a heap of holes, however the sparky said I need lots more, so it out with the hole saw and more holes. I will also put the cable trays up in the roof void to keep the cabling as neat as possible. At the moment I have some 420 metres of electrical cabling to run with more to come and this has not included the main line. At least easier to run cabling now. Sparky advised me what I needed in cabling and best place to purchase so saved come money there. As for 15 amp I have allowed for 8, Dusty - Pool Pump - 2 x air cons - rest as power points, I will most likely put an external 15 amp so maybe 9, just to be sure, I will more likely weld outside than inside.

Anyway will give further update and photos soon.

Brian

A couple of photos, apologies for the quality of the first one Welds.jpgI'm currently in the process of wire brushing any rusted welds, priming and 2nd coating every weld. Honestly I can say I'm not enjoying climbing up and down the ladder, be ok if I still had my planks I could set up and just do a heap at once. Figure I still have a day to go with the touch up. My grandson was helping me do the spraying so I let him pick the colours, The frame is sorta techno coloured now.

As you can see a fair bit of water is coming out and that's a 5mm hole. This ran for at least 15 mins. So I have no option but to drill every bottom cord and truss. Glad I noticed the water dripping from the trusses easy to sort out now.
Water.jpg

Wall linings
I have also made a decision on my internal linings. Having pondered over this for sometime looking at all the pros and cons and the advise people have provided. In the end, speed and price had a factor. I have decided one wall will be villa board while the rest, plasterboard. I know this is not the preferred option however I feel it will save money at a later stage. I also figured If I'm going to hang stuff on the wall I can put sheets of ply over the plaster and these sheets can be removed later and any holes repaired. Hanging items elsewhere in the shed can be done with French cleats. The villa board will line one wall as it will be the backing for the future kitchen and bathroom. I will just deal with plaster walls, if it gets damaged it is an easy repair.

Starting to freak out about the power board considering the sparky said every 15amp is a dedicated circuit. So that's 8 circuits maybe 9 and no more than 5 PP per circuits add the lights and smoke detectors and this board is getting big. Having a 32 main coming in apparently will give me 60 amps to play with. Hope that's enough. At least running the 15 amps will be easy. There will also be an air compressor, 6 internal lights, 2 external lights, one sensor light, 3 fans, 2 air cons, TV, future oven, hot plates, range hood, exhaust fan to run cables to.

At this stage I'm also considering hanging a couple of points from the ceiling most likely around my work table. Another project build my work bench.

Oh well better get back to it nothing happening while I'm typing and the suns shining.

Shed looks great!

Originally Posted by Brian45

. . . .. I also figured If I'm going to hang stuff on the wall I can put sheets of ply over the plaster and these sheets can be removed later and any holes repaired. Hanging items elsewhere in the shed can be done with French cleats. The villa board will line one wall as it will be the backing for the future kitchen and bathroom. I will just deal with plaster walls, if it gets damaged it is an easy repair. .

That's what I did.

The walls in the metal work section of my shed are lined with miniorb and most of those walls are covered by a lathe, welding bay fume hood and a metal stock rack. There is one steel framed set of shelves up against a wall that holds the lathe tooling. This shelf hangs from a roof truss and is tek screwed to a miniorb wall just to stop it moving.

I had already planned that most of the rest of the walls would covered with cupboards, machinery, or used to store sheets goods against, so it seemed silly to use ply as lining and then never hang a thing on the ply in these areas so I just used gyprock where ever I didn't use miniorb. I did end up covering the gyprock in one corner of the shed with two sheets of 1.2x2.4m ply to hang garden tools on, There is another large shelf bolted to the wall that holds my 9 chainsaws, 21 chains and various saw arts. but because of the the high load this shelf has a steel frame and is bolted direct to the wall studs.

The only thing that's hanging on a wall is a 900 x 900 mm tool board and that is done with french cleats. I can appreciate if you are going to hang a lot of stuff off walls that lining it with ply is good idea, however, I have never regretted do it with gyprock.

Regards power points I recommend running the power along the tops of the walls and bringing the wiring down to the GPOs at around 1.4m above the floor. I made the mistake of placing the tops of the GPOs at 1.2m high so that 1.2 x2.4m sheet goods laying on their sides covered up the powerpoint. I was able to move affected GPOs and patch up the gyprock but it would have been easier to get it right from the start. Some folks like to run channel around the wall and put the GPOs in that - if so them once again make sure the cable tray is more than 1.2m above the floor.

This has been discussed before but technically speaking you don't need to have all 15A GPOs on their own Breaker even though most sparkies will tell you that is in the regs. The regs are interpretable by the sparky and most choose to use individual circuits as this completely covers their legal backside. You may have noticed that 15A double GPOs are readily available.

15A GPOs only need their own breaker if the appliance is likely to be on under load at the same time as other appliances . Hence pool pump, dusty and ACs should be on their own circuit as these kick in and out independent of users. If you have 3HP TS, Thicknesser and a Sander that you control, are you ever going to be using them under load at the same time? - I doubt it.

In my shed I have 2 single 15A GPO each with their own breaker, one for the compressor and one for the AC because they can kick in at any time.

Then I have 2 double 15A GPOs.
One socket on one of these GPO is used for my DC and the other socket powers my welder/plasma cutter, because I never run these under load at the same time.
You can have both machines turned on but if they are not under load they won't be pulling much current.
The other double GPO has the TS and the Belt sander on it, again I'm not running these under load at the same time.
The other circuit has two single 15A GPOs on the one breaker, these are used to test motors or run the Band saw. The Bandsaw has a 3HP motor but I have never seen it develop more than 2HP.

Of course whatever you do you should go with what your sparky says as he is the one guaranteeing your shed won't burn down.

BTW I have 7? double 10A GPOs hanging from the roof and mounted onto a roof trusses running down the middle of the shed - I wish I had more