Thread: Erection

Originally Posted by Onezero

I am getting the shed insulated (forget what they call it) with that silver bubble wrap stuff.

That's good stuff - I used in in most of my shed - and very easy to install compared to stuff like rockwool.

I haven't actually thought about dust extraction. I have always done my wood work outside and not bothered with it. Better read up on that!

Prepare yourself for a long read.

What would I need specifically in terms of electrical in the slab?

To some extent it depends if you planning stationary machinery or not. If all your machines will be movable then maybe this is not needed. However if even one machine location is known - even approximately then I would at least get some 2" PVC ducting put into the slab and coming out at floor level and the other end somewhere near a wall. 2" ducting means you can run an extension cord through it without removing the plugs/sockets. I did this for my TS and router and I reckon it's one of the best things I have done in my shed. I wish I had done more of it.

hmmm, interesting little work around you did there Bob!

I think I want things to be moveable to maximise floor space. I wonder if floor GPO's can be put in like we had at uni to plug our laptops into...

Just put some scale measurements into the site plan of our lot and it looks like a 5x6m is the best option given I have to me 2.4m off the boundary at the back because of the sewer!

2.7mtr walls are quite high though. Definitely putting in a small mezzanine level to take stuff like Xmas lights, toys etc.

Originally Posted by Onezero

hmmm, interesting little work around you did there Bob

I think I want things to be moveable to maximise floor space. I wonder if floor GPO's can be put in like we had at uni to plug our laptops into...

If you want all machines movable then under floor is probably less useful.

If it was me then what I would do is for now install a ducted metal box with a 5 mm metal lid in the middle of the floor that sits flush with the floor. Inside the box I would install a double 10A GPO and a double 15A GPO that way the power is already in the middle of the floor and you don't have to drag a power cord across from a wall.

Originally Posted by BobL

If you want all machines movable then under floor is probably less useful.

If it was me then what I would do is for now install a ducted metal box with a 5 mm metal lid in the middle of the floor that sits flush with the floor. Inside the box I would install a double 10A GPO and a double 15A GPO that way the power is already in the middle of the floor and you don't have to drag a power cord across from a wall.

Great idea! I will look into doing that. Wonder if the shed mob will charge extra for this type of thing into the concrete.

Can highly recommend some form of insulation. I deliberately put no windows or skylights in my shed and had Aircell put under the roof sheets. Cost me $600 on a 9x7 from Ranbuild. Been using the shed over some of the recent really hot days and it's been quite tolerable (cooler or the same as outside). My other shed without insulation and much smaller is like an oven on days like that.

Danny

Originally Posted by Onezero

Great idea! I will look into doing that. Wonder if the shed mob will charge extra for this type of thing into the concrete.

If you want legit hardwired GPOs in the box then the box probably needs to be installed by a sparky before the floor is laid and then wired up by the sparky afterwards. However a cheaper way is to install some 2" PVC duct to a metal box yourself and then run an extension cord thru the ducting into the box and just put an expansion board inside the box.

Originally Posted by danny.s

I deliberately put no windows or skylights in my shed . . . . .

It depends how much time one spends in the shed but if lighting needs to be used constantly to see what one is doing they can generate as much heat or more than comes in via a shaded window or skylight

Good point BobL. I am fortunate that my shed faces north so opening the two rollers doors ensures plenty of light. Mind you, I am yet to use my shed during a cold Cockatoo winter day so I reserve the right to regret the lack of windows/skylights.

Danny

Originally Posted by BobL

If you want legit hardwired GPOs in the box then the box probably needs to be installed by a sparky before the floor is laid and then wired up by the sparky afterwards. However a cheaper way is to install some 2" PVC duct to a metal box yourself and then run an extension cord thru the ducting into the box and just put an expansion board inside the box.

Dad is a sparkie so it shouldn't be an issue.

Originally Posted by Onezero

Dad is a sparkie so it shouldn't be an issue.

Well - then I'd definitely be getting the ducting put in.

I put up an 8x3.6m shed up in around 50 hours. The process was to fully assemble the side walls complete (including guttering) and lift them up with the aid of a mate. Once they were up. propped with 4x2's and quickly installed the roof beams which I'd already loosely pre assembled. Once it was all squared up on the slab, drill holes, slide walls away from holes and install dyna bolts, then obviously bolt columns down.
I built the shed on weekends, spend about 6 hours a weekend on it. The advantage of this method is you can do bits and pieces and get very well advanced, only needing to set aside a block of 4-6 hours near the end to actually raise walls etc.
The only time I got an extra set of hands to help was raising the side walls and cladding the roof.
I even poured my own slab, was on a severe budget, I had $4k to do it all.
If I can make one recommendation, it would be to go with 2.4m eave height. It allows much more room inside, you can put 600mm deep shelves suspended off the roof and it only added around $150 to the price of my shed over a 1.8m eave height.

Originally Posted by Canvasman

I put up an 8x3.6m shed up in around 50 hours. The process was to fully assemble the side walls complete (including guttering) and lift them up with the aid of a mate. Once they were up. propped with 4x2's and quickly installed the roof beams which I'd already loosely pre assembled. Once it was all squared up on the slab, drill holes, slide walls away from holes and install dyna bolts, then obviously bolt columns down.
I built the shed on weekends, spend about 6 hours a weekend on it. The advantage of this method is you can do bits and pieces and get very well advanced, only needing to set aside a block of 4-6 hours near the end to actually raise walls etc.
The only time I got an extra set of hands to help was raising the side walls and cladding the roof.
I even poured my own slab, was on a severe budget, I had $4k to do it all.
If I can make one recommendation, it would be to go with 2.4m eave height. It allows much more room inside, you can put 600mm deep shelves suspended off the roof and it only added around $150 to the price of my shed over a 1.8m eave height.

Wow, 50 hours. I don't have that much time! I think I will just pay them to put the damned thing up. Takes them 1.5 days apparently!

They said 2 - 3 days for mine. Took them 5 hours and they did it well.

My new shed was only a 6 x 4 but it took two blokes 1.5 days (not including floor) to put up, as access was limited and the 500 mm high retaining wall around two sides of the shed drove them nuts. That also included an insulated roof.