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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    549

    Default Help me design my shed

    I've finally pulled the trigger on a house (my first). I've been renting for years, and while fortunate to have a shed, it has not been ideal - it leaks, has open eaves, is dusty and everything rusts!

    The place I've bought is in Newcastle, on a 490m2 block. It's a nice double brick place.

    So now the important part starts - planning the shed.

    The yard is a nice size, but not large, so I can't have a big shed unfortunately. At present I'm thinking of utilising 'exempt development' where tool or garden sheds up to 20m2 do not require a development approval. This would speed the process and mean I don't have to spend money on red tape, I can buy tools instead. At present I'm investigating whether having fixed wiring and things like that would exempt it from being exempt...
    I'm also thinking of constructing the shed. Though I'm thinking of getting the slab done by a professional.

    My current shed is a single car garage (width) though it is a fair bit longer. While I'd like a huge shed with a central bench I can get around all sides, that's not going to happen, so I think a bit thinner and longer is probably better, as it means less space 'lost' in the middle.

    Options floor size wise:
    5x4m
    6x3.3m (erring towards this sort of shape)
    6.67x3m (think this is too narrow)

    Purpose
    I do both metal and woodwork.
    I've build a 1200x600mm CNC wood router
    I've got a benchtop metal mill and lathe

    Structure
    Slab - 100mm thick. Toying with the idea of putting some PEX down for slab heating - I just think it's a really neat idea.
    Timber frame
    Double door at garden end.
    Possibly single door with window towards house end.

    Cladding
    Inside
    Planning on 12-18mm plywood or oriented strand board (OSB)
    Considering prefinished plywood - white laminate?

    Outside
    I'm considering corrugated sheeting, run horizontally. Possibly mini-orb if the price is not tooooo bad
    However, noise sealing is a significant consideration for me. So I was thinking of using a flat sheet cladding then the corro essentially for aesthetic cover.

    Insulation
    Noise insulation is probably the priority.
    Suggestions?

    Look
    I want it to be somewhat sympathetic with the house. A kit shed would be cheaper and quicker but fails this criterion and doesn't pass the SWMBO test.
    Thinking of corrugated sheet, run horizontally.
    Timber frame windows.
    Ideally I want to end up with something I'll be happy to use for 5-10 years, then when I sell the house, the shed can be seen as a good shed, or possibly a small studio / den for the mad people who don't want a shed.

    Organisation
    I've been inspired by a thread at garagejournal and am planning to use french cleats extensively.

    Location:
    At present I'm thinking of putting it on the right hand side of the photo below, replacing the patio structure (BBQ area) with the corro panels.
    Back.jpg

    A shot from the deck - the shed would be on the left. I don't want it to dominate the area. I would have some plants along the side.
    Deck.jpg

    View back towards the house - there is a toilet window, and an existing store room (small but functional) - I'm thinking having the shed sitting a meter or so off the back wall, leaving a passage way, would be ok.
    DeckBack.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,790

    Default

    The layout should integrate the dust extraction from the start so you don't end up with doors and windows in the wrong place.
    Leave a space outside for the DC.

    [QUOTE=pippin88;1869874] Options floor size wise:
    4 m means you can use an island bench - very handy. I'd go for that over any advantages provided by wall space.

    Purpose
    I do both metal and woodwork.
    Consider lining one end in fire proof materials for metal work - I used miniorb with rock wool insulation underneath -its one of he best things I every did in my shed.
    I can grind, weld plasma cut etc with reduced worries.
    Noise-wise Miniorb is very good - way better than I thought it would be, much better than regular core
    see my shed thread - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/bobls-shed-fit-134670

    Double door at garden end.
    Not necessary as you lose wall space - you just need a door wide enough to get bug gear in (1.2m should cover it)

    Possibly single door with window towards house end.
    Two doors is a good idea if you have the room - as you can use it to create a cross flow for ventilation

    Cladding
    Inside
    Planning on 12-18mm plywood or oriented strand board (OSB)
    Considering prefinished plywood - white laminate?
    I ended up with lots of cupboards up against my walls so I used gyprock in the WW half of the shed, otherwise I would have gone for the ply.

    Outside
    I'm considering corrugated sheeting, run horizontally. Possibly mini-orb if the price is not tooooo bad
    However, noise sealing is a significant consideration for me. So I was thinking of using a flat sheet cladding then the corro essentially for aesthetic cover.
    Corro - 50mm mm of bulk soft sound absorber (insulation) - then Minorb on top (inside) would be effective enough.
    Miniorb is about $40/m2
    If Minorb too expensive then replace the minor with 12 - 17 mm ply -cabout $12 - $30 /m2 depending on thickness

    Insulation
    Noise insulation is probably the priority.
    Miniorb is surprisingly effective - it is sold and used as an internal sound scatterer

    Organisation
    I've been inspired by a thread at garagejournal and am planning to use french cleats extensively.
    I was thinking of french cleats but didn't end up using any.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Lalla, Tasmania
    Posts
    1,350

    Default

    I'd go for a 4x5 shed as well for the reason BobL gave. My current shed is 6x3 and it is just not wide enough for larger projects, I mean it's ok but not the best use of space IMO.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Hi Pippin,
    Is it possible to go 6 X 4, you'd be surprised as to how much extra room you'd have with the extra metre. With regards to the centre bench,
    why not put it on castors with locking screws, so that you have the best of both worlds, it can be pushed up against a wall under cupboard type storage, when a big space is required, ie cutting sheet material. Pulled out, to assemble the stuff you just cut .
    Mounting large machinery on rolling frames is probably the best way to go, as if it's not needed, it's out of the way. There would be nothing stopping you from using the backs of doors, for a place to hang stuff, ext. cords, long clamps etc, or for storage space of screws nails etc.
    I made a clam shell cupboard, that takes peanut paste containers, for my nails and screws, doubling the storage space. You could make 2 of them, one for woodwork stuff and another for metal work, pop rivets, bolts, nuts etc. Shelving can be set so that cans of PP paint could go there also. Try using cupboards with doors as dust seems to be attracted to shelving, no matter how you try, just look at stuff inside the house. She'll clean it one day and the next it's back.
    Don't plan for what you have at the moment, but what will come, bandsaw, jointer etc. With regards to the metre away from the fence, a lot use this area for storage of long timber, steel, by putting a frame with supports coming out and a roof over it under the fence line so that next door can't see it, unless they sticky beak over the fence.
    A good book to get hold of is "How to Build a Great Home Workshop" by Wood Magazine, published by Sterling ISBN-13: 978-1-4027-1177-0
    ISBN-10: 1-4027-1177-8, it has a lot of handy hints on setting up the Shed. You should be able to borrow it from the Local Library or cost is about $30.00. Extremely good value, for the amount of info. A couple of items made from the book.
    Regards
    Kryn
    DSCF0127.jpgDSCF0128.jpgDSCF0129.jpg
    Now you don't Now you see it Clamp rack
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by KBs PensNmore; 1st June 2015 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Added Photos

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    549

    Default

    Thanks for the replies.

    I plan to have dust extraction and air compressor in silencer boxes on the fence side of the shed.

    I don't plan to weld and grind in the shed as I hate the mess it creates. I prefer to just do it outside. My metalwork is mostly mill and lathe work.

    Side passage down the house is 1.2m, so a 1.2m door does make sense.

    Will do some model arrangements to work on the width vs length and what will fit best.
    Current shed is 3m wide, and works ok, but certainly no potential for an island.

    The reason for the size is that it should fall under exempt development, meaning I don't need council approval. Council approval takes time and is associated with plenty of fees.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Depending on how keen you are you could dig a hole and put a basement workshop in the same size as the top one. I did this and have never regretted the work but it will be expensive.
    CHRIS

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,743

    Default

    I am currently siting in a 3.3 x 5.1 mtr room, and would definitely recommend something wider. The 5 x 4 mtr size is what I would go for.

    Depending on funds, I also really like the basement approach (maybe for slow drying timber?). Don't forget ventilation if you go this way.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Depending on how keen you are you could dig a hole and put a basement workshop in the same size as the top one. I did this and have never regretted the work but it will be expensive.
    I have a friend who did this, 2 shipping containers side by side, painted them with bitchomine paint to slow down rust and put in a sump with submersible pump. Just don't tell the neighbours what's in there. .
    Kryn

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Newcastle, Australia
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    I have a friend who did this, 2 shipping containers side by side, painted them with bitchomine paint to slow down rust and put in a sump with submersible pump. Just don't tell the neighbours what's in there. .
    Kryn
    Ships?

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    I am currently siting in a 3.3 x 5.1 mtr room, and would definitely recommend something wider. The 5 x 4 mtr size is what I would go for.

    Depending on funds, I also really like the basement approach (maybe for slow drying timber?). Don't forget ventilation if you go this way.
    I put Solar Tubes in and a Solar vent fan as we found without that the area became very dank. They run from the through the main workshop up against one wall and add heaps of light and the fan never stops working. With those and white painted walls it is possible to work without lights. It is what the Americans would call a walk out basement only being underground for about 3/4 of the area and took me a year to dig the hole.
    CHRIS

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    My mate was lucky, as our friend, does some work for someone with all the right gear, tippers, excavators, bobcats, laser levels. Just on weekends, took about 2 months, hardest part, was getting the excavator out from 3m below, truck towing the bobcat, towing the excavator, on a concrete driveway.
    Kryn

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    549

    Default

    Hah, I'd love a double level shed, but in a complete flat block without access for excavators it ain't going to happen.

    5x4 with a compact mobile central bench is looking good. Probably a bench with fold down extensions.

    Windows
    I'm looking at prefabbed / ready made windows. Can anyone recommend a source? Anyone used the Bunnings ones (Polar Eco-view)?

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    549

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    An initial layout:

    Layout 1.jpg

    A view from above.
    5m long, 4m wide.

    On the left my CNC benchtop mill sits between two windows. I would have cupboards / shelves under the windows.

    In the middle is an island bench on wheels.
    At the top is my CNC lathe.
    At the bottom is my CNC router.

    On the right is a 700mm deep bench the whole length of the shed. It will have cupboards and shelves below, and above.

    I also need to fit:
    4x6" metal bandsaw (will be on a cart)
    ShopVac on a cart with a Dust Deputy cyclone.

    Thoughts?

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    549

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    Well, thanks for all the input, but things have taken a different direction.

    After 5 weeks of being stuffed around on a house (after they accepted our offer) we've found another one. Nearly got gazumped on this second one today! But contracts have been exchanged.

    It has a two car garage, so I won't need to build and can move straight in! 6.5x5.5m

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