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  1. #16
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    Yeah I guess it would be worth considering if you had decent slope. Although it would limit you to only having one side of the shed for access?

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
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    57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    Yeah I guess it would be worth considering if you had decent slope. Although it would limit you to only having one side of the shed for access?
    Yes. He had a ramp at the main entry.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
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    3,552

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    Large groove on sill base takes a fascia board, behind which the flashing turns down over the external cladding. The cladding should not extend into the groove as this creates a dam in the flashing.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

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    Hi Rusty
    Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I will revise the cross section drawing to show flashing and fascia.

    Cheers

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    217

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    Ok slowly finalising my draft plans. I have decided to place a 50mm step between the carport area and the shed. Also incorporate a water table trim with drip flashing. I will most likely use Hardie Plank for the trim board rather than timber.
    What are peoples opinions of the timber cladding on a steel frame, should a waterproof membrane be placed between them?
    Hi,
    I like your shed design.
    50mm step just ensure you allow for termite visual barrier and 75.mm is required, Check what is stated on your certified plans. Also check the new standard in under floor slab treatment for termites. Spraying is out and its now done with plastic membrane (not many do it). Have just gone through this in the NT. You may also need a part B barrier around the shed which is 300 mm wide.

    Installing timber on steel frame you will need sarking and a lot will depend on what you will do with the shed later as to which membrane you use.

    What do you mean hardiplank for trim board rather than timber? you thinking of cladding in hardiplank?


    Fixings - if your near Sandgate I dare say you will need to fix with stainless steel screws if within 2k of the water.

    Anyway looking forward to the build.

    Brian

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

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    Hi Brian

    Thanks for the advice. The council advised I would only require a 75mm visual barrier. But I guess I will see what they come up with when I submit the final building application.

    I will be sheeting the inside and it will only ever be used as workshop or garage. So what sort of sarking do you suggest. Also does a water proof membrane normaly be installed between the bottom plate and the slap?

    I am going to install a 300mm trim board around the bottom rather than run the cladding to the ground. This way if there is ever any water damage ect it is much easier to change the trim board rather than the cladding. I was going to use 20mm fibro rather than timber.

    Shed is in Rockhampton, so well away from the coast. Sandgate sawmill will provide the cladding, window sills and jambs.

    Cheers

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Trim board
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Window Frame Section2.pdfTake 2 of the window section.
    Looks like the framing I will be using is 75mm so it all lines up nicely with the fascia board.
    I'm guessing framing used to be 3" (76.3mm) which is what the sill would be designed for?

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Image file rather than pdf might be better.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

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    Engineering has been commissioned, hopefully have the plans in a few weeks. Then one more round through the council and away we go. The planning has been a long road but starting to see the end now.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

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    Update, things have been a bit steady but have submitted the final council application so hopefully get the thumbs up late this week or next week.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    217

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    Hi,

    Just wondering you still doing a steel frame or you going timber. Looking forward to seeing your build. With the timber cladding it would be a great investment to paint both sides of the board and ensure every joint is painted before final fix.

    Sandgate saw mill I used to use them when I was living there near 40 years ago, I thought they would have been pushed out by now.

    Brian

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

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    Hi Brian,

    Yep still using steel stud frame. I was intending to paint the tongue and groove and end grain before fixing but wasn’t going to paint the back side completely. Is there a reason for doing this? I will place a moisture barrier between the steel and timber.

    Yeah the sawmill seems to be in quite a residential area, I visited there earlier in the year and was surprised.

    Hopefully have council approval next week and I can start on the foundation.

    Cheers

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    275

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    Update
    Council approval received.
    Have cleared the site ready for work on the foundation to begin. Hopefully the old garden shed slab doesn't put up too much of a fight.

    site1.jpg

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    182

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    I was watching a workshop tour on YouTube yesterday. He had built his shed into a slope so that for the first meter half of it was in the ground. He had a concrete slab and concrete block for the first meter. He said that having it partially sunk into the ground gave it a large thermal mass. The temperature in the shed changed more gradually than outside. This made it more pleasant to work in and also meant the environment was more stable for the timber.
    His back wall was all above ground so water could not pool in his shed.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Dave... do you happen to remember the you tube channel you're referring too please?

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