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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    But I cannot fit timber in a compactus, [I am not a pen maker.]
    the compactus is for stuff other than timber.



    Fully agree that I should sort out storage. For example, if I go yellow tongue on joists, then that will probably not be strong enough to support storage racks, so would probably have in think about piers under the racks. Unsure if the brick wall is strong enough to hang racks, and as its a parapet wall Council probably have a rule....
    hence the suggestion to only build the new floor in front of the storage racks. The existing floor is what supports the racks.



    No, no, no! As Tonzoeyd said "Do it properly". I want the entire floor accessible - not a storage area! - and usable as a work area, and the floor under the storage racks needs to be a reference surface, or those racks won't be level and straight.
    that's what laser levels are for -- to provide a reference surface (and vertical) independent of any irregularities in the floor or walls.


    I have not yet consulted a concreter, but I was thinking of 25 mm over the peaks - and therefore 85 mm in the troughs. At the side door, the existing floor is about 65 mm below the door sill, so a raise in floor height is not a major issue.
    the last major concrete job I did was some considerable time ago (and given that it required 3000 tonnes of cement, it was rather bigger than the typical shed or house slab) but my recollection is that with a 20mm aggregate you don't want to go much thinner than about 75 mm, with 100 mm being a better minimum.


    I was unaware of this product. Dr Google says Bunnings have several products ranging from the same price as self levelling concrete to about half that cost. I know nothing about the ease of application or its benefits over concrete.
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/compare?...960343,0960344,
    as I mentioned, last time I had a decent conversation with a concrete supplier I was chasing 10,000 cubic metres. At that sort of quantity, it's a case of whatever you need specification wise we can make. If you decide to go down the high strength grout path, have the conversation with your potential supplier. The small guys may not have the technology to make the required mix.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #47
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    Thanks Ian

    All comments have been taken onboard. We are getting there:

    .....that's what laser levels are for -- to provide a reference surface (and vertical) independent of any irregularities in the floor or walls.....
    Laser level has jumped to the top of the wish list. Whats a good inexpensive one and what should I avoid. I have never used one so am flying blind.

    The area under the racks will amount to less than 15% of total floor area, so not convinced that there will be a significant time or cost saving from not concreting them. If not smooth and level then will need to use spacers under every post.

    Never thought of impact of aggregate size and for an order of, say, 2 m3, the likely reaction might be "...its all got 20 mm aggregate and its all about 25 mpa .....". Too small to get any choice.

    I don't like what you said but unfortunately its probably correct and good advice.


    Thanks

    Graeme

  4. #48
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    You will have no trouble ordering a topping mix from your local concrete supplier, they will have 10 mm aggregate in their yard which will cost about $10m3 more than standard 20mm and will also do a 6 mm aggregate if you want but they may not have it in stock and will charge a premium
    Rather than over complicating this whole process have a chat to a Concretor and they will soon sort it out for you. Unless you need a laser I wouldn’t buy one just for this job, the Concretor will have one and set a few heights to work off
    Unless you have a bit of a spend on a laser, the cheaper ones have a limited range and you cannot see the beam in a bright room so are more suited to a bathroom type scenario or for hanging a door or a picture, setting out light fittings etc

  5. #49
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    A water level works really well for this situation...
    CHRIS

  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    You will have no trouble ordering a topping mix from your local concrete supplier, they will have 10 mm aggregate in their yard which will cost about $10m3 more than standard 20mm and will also do a 6 mm aggregate if you want but they may not have it in stock and will charge a premium
    Rather than over complicating this whole process have a chat to a Concretor and they will soon sort it out for you. Unless you need a laser I wouldn’t buy one just for this job, the Concretor will have one and set a few heights to work off
    Unless you have a bit of a spend on a laser, the cheaper ones have a limited range and you cannot see the beam in a bright room so are more suited to a bathroom type scenario or for hanging a door or a picture, setting out light fittings etc
    Thanks Beardy

    Talked to a builder mate - he said to order "pump mix" concrete - even tho it will never be pumped.

    Comments on laser levels noted; avoid el cheapo.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  7. #51
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    Hi Guys

    Hobart is in the middle of a building boom so most in the building trades have more work than they can handle, plus Christmas is upon us. Need to locate and have a chat with a concreter before I can advance this much more, I think.

    Thank you for all the help so far.

    Cheers

    Graeme
    Have a Great Christmas

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hobart is in the middle of a building boom so most in the building trades have more work than they can handle, plus Christmas is upon us. Need to locate and have a chat with a concreter before I can advance this much more, I think.
    If you have the time try, ring and have a conversation with your local concrete batch plant -- after all it will be the batch plant that makes the mix you ultimately use. The concreter is just the blokes (and/or girls) who puts it in the form and levels the surface.


    BTW
    "pump mix" concrete has additives like super plasticizes that make the wet mix super "runny" -- for want of a better technical term. These cost extra compared to a "standard mix", but the extra cost can be balanced against a reduction in quantity.
    e.g. using 20 mm aggregate, you might need to buy 4 cubic metres so you can a 100-120 mm topping slab.
    using 10 mm aggregate, you might only need 2 cubic metres.
    and if using smaller again aggregate, the quantity you need might be less than 1 cubic metre.

    Have a Great Christmas
    definitely, and you too
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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