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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    293

    Red face Could you please advise me on new Colorbond shed build?

    Hello Guys,

    I'd REALLY appreciate your help! I've moved to a Sydney property that has an old existing concrete slab that is thick enough for a shed, but hasn't been constructed with this in mind, so doesn't have the waterproof sheeting and is at ground level, so it will likely have water pooling on it at times. I'm aiming for the largest council shed allowance of 20m2.

    What I need help with is how to plan the metal shed construction. I'd love to hear your ideas, because so far all I've can come up with is these two options:

    1). To pay the extra for a custom shed with extended 'legs' with drilled base-plates to secure to the slab and then use joists and bearers with a floating yellow tongue floor.

    2). To buy standard shed and construct a Besser block perimeter attached to the slab (I'm guessing I'll need to use bent rebar concreted at intervals into Besser block cores) and run a waterproof flashing strip on top of the Besser blocks to prevent water being absorbed through the concrete blocks and onto the tin. If I go this way I guess I'd have to leave weep holes and then use joists & bearers as well.

    Also, what would you consider to be the best Australian metal shed company? I'm happy to pay more for a quality shed.

    Many thanks in advance,
    Clare.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
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    64
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    Default

    If the current slab it too low the easiest way to go is to pour another slab over it and erect the shed on that
    Have a look at Best Sheds, their pricing is pretty good and product is fine......they pretty much all offer the same thing anyway

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    What size is your concrete slab? A possible alternative is to work out the size that you'd like, 5 X 4m for example, and cut out the concrete, so that the sheeting will go down about 25mm below the concrete. You could then backfill with concrete to finish off the outside, if it's a large area, or dig it up totally if it's a smallish area. Would you be allowed to erect a carport along side of the shed, just a bit more undercovered area?
    Sorry can't help you with shed companies, ask to have a look at customers sheds if possible. The display shed and what you get could be 2 different items. Stay with businesses that have dealt with sheds and garages etc, for some time, there could be some fly by nights around.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    74
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    Definitely Best Sheds, I have used them, excellent.
    As said above, simply pour a slab over the top of the existing with 20mm of washed sand on top of the existing one then the plastic membrane over sand (except the perimeter 300mm wide no sand) then F82 mesh on chairs set for 100 concrete.
    When you bolt your portal frame down make sure the bolts (either Dyna bolts or chemset studs) penetrate and anchor into the original slab by 100mm.
    The advantage of a timber floor is you can run power and ducting under the floor. If its going to be a workshop don't use particle board flooring, use ply, its dearer but will stand up to wear and tear without scalloping between the joists. If you do decide to use a timber floor, place a double layer of membrane down first and use the LVL red alert floor joists and screw the floor do not nail.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Default

    Thanks so much Beardy! I hadn't even thought of that!!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Default

    Thanks so much KB! Some great advice here!

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Default

    Thank you so much for your in-depth response rwbuild! I'm a novice builder so not sure what some of the suggestions are exactly (like F82 mesh, LVL red alert floor joists), but will do some research and find out. I hadn't thought of adding to the slab so I really appreciate your & Beardy's advice. Also giving Best Sheds the thumbs up is so helpful. There are just so many companies and trying to sort out which might be great/not so great is really hard.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    F82 is the grade of reinforcement sheet mesh to be placed in the concrete
    LVL = laminated veneer lumber
    Red alert = termite treated
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Mt Crosby, Brisbane
    Posts
    2,548

    Default

    You need to decide what you want to do with it. Is this for a workshop or a garage ?

    Any sort of suspended/timber floor is going to cost money and time. Pouring another slab over the one you have is a good idea and if your dealing with 20 sqm it's going to be cheap. But if you specifically want a suspended floor again because of the small size it won't cost the earth.

    At that size the cost difference won't be large between kit shed suppliers. Might as well buy a nice one. One suggestion though, I would always build a portal shed not a space frame. The biggest difference I've found between shed companies is some have more joints to attach in the frames and some are not self aligning so they are a bit more of a bother to assemble, but the real money is in the metal sheeting. I would check if they are using proper australian colourbond or some imported stuff. I've seen some properly awful steel from overseas and I'd suggest you are wasting your time with it.

    If you can go for higher walls do consider that. I put 8' (2.5 m) walls in mine and wish I'd paid the tiny bit extra for 3m (10') walls. If you can go higher you might even get space for a 1st floor. The higher walls make for better ventilation, cooler on hot days because the roof is further away but most of all you can fit higher shelves so more storage. Also consider a whirly bird. I fitted mine some years after I built my shed and you could really tell the difference in summer. You only need one for 20 sqm. If you live in a hotter part of sydney you might even consider lining the shed with foil blanket. It reflects heat back out and will really help in summer.

    If you get a concrete floor consider getting vinyl or other similar covering. I laid old carpet in my shed. It's easier on my old bones when I have to crawl around fixing the car or whatever, it's nicer on your feet. Concrete always accumulates dust.

    Whatever you decide good luck
    I'm just a startled bunny in the headlights of life. L.J. Young.
    We live in a free country. We have freedom of choice. You can choose to agree with me, or you can choose to be wrong.
    Wait! No one told you your government was a sitcom?

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    Damian has mentioned 2 excellent points
    Insulation: Use the aircell for roof and walls (looks like bubble wrap sandwiched between foil)
    Wall Depending on what you intend to do minimum 2.4m at the external walls (be aware that some garage manufacturers say the standard is 2.4m but neglect to tell you thats to the top of the roof)
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Thanks so much Damian! This is really great advice as well. I so appreciate your help. Council regs height limit is 3m so I'll aim for that. The shed is going to be a storage space for works I've made before they find new homes, so the advice on reducing heat is important (many are timber).

  13. #12
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    Jan 2008
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    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Yes, agree re. Damian's advice rwbuild. I'll definitely follow this up too, along with double-checking the wall height!

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    ".... simply pour a slab over the top of the existing with 20mm of washed sand on top of the existing one then the plastic membrane over sand (except the perimeter 300mm wide no sand)
    rwbuild, would you mind verifying... do I put plastic sheet over the whole area, including the 300mm perimeter where there's no sand, or does it stop short of this and follow the same footprint as the sand?

    Thanks in advance!

  15. #14
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    May 2012
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    Woodstock (Cowra)
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    The whole area. Make sure it is the correct grade for under concrete.
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/grunt-2-...-film_p0810372
    200um thick, lapped 150mm at joins and taped
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Haberfield, Inner West, Sydney, NSW
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    Default

    Wow rwbuild!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!! You're the best!

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