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Thread: Pre-Shed Build Questions
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23rd May 2018, 11:29 PM #31
Broad statement Chris, questions What size floor joists at what centres spanning what distance and what stress grade (F rating) and what timber species, what surface protection is on the YT to stop degradation of the YT when you drive your dripping wet car out of a storm onto it? I also assume (I may be wrong) that your 4 car garage is built on a very steep site and this was the most cost effective solution at the time, speaking of time, how long ago was this built?
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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23rd May 2018 11:29 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th May 2018, 01:52 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
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[QUOTE=Beardy;2087609]Going from the bottom up: Its a lot more than a "hundred odd dollars." The cost of the slab represents 50% of the project cost. If the plans are submitted as an earth floor the total project cost is halved.
Frame standards vary in design shed to shed. Bolt downs can be either raised to slab height or poured to slab height. If the latter is used, forming is required. If the former is used only a locator is required. Larger sheds are using I beams as frames. They are either base mounted to a footing or plunged straight down the hole.
Pier hole excavation is done by boring only.
It is still possible to pour the concrete monolithic if multiple pours is a problem.
Wall cladding is protected from concrete burn by the use of expansion strip or spray on release agent.
Advantages: Minimal formwork - Labour saving. Reduced Council fees. Controlled slab drying. All weather pouring. Vermin seal. Staggered cost.
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24th May 2018, 08:54 PM #33GOLD MEMBER
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From my experience it is still more cost effective to pour the slab with integrated thickenings before erecting the structure, you are not setting up and paying labour for two pours. I don’t know about your area but I find council fees are an insignificant cost in the scheme of things
I formed one up today that we are pouring tomorrow. You can do it either method and at the end of the day you run with what suits you best
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24th May 2018, 09:08 PM #34
You're getting a shed - Brilliant!
when's the shed raising weekend?regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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25th May 2018, 01:23 AM #35Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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25th May 2018, 02:22 PM #36New Member
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Hi All,
First post I believe.
Thought I would toss in my pence worth if it might help someone.
Ok, After getting council approval I bought a kit for the biggest shed that would fit on my fairly normal suburban block.
I needed to have a few things verified because it comes within about 200 mm. of the house at one point, and is built against two fences, (and over an easement).
The easement issue over the sewer trunk was solved easily with South East Water, they just got me to pour a strip slab separately over the easement with an expansion joint, that way if they ever had to dig it up they only have to dig up that strip because the reo doesn't run through.
I also had to confirm distances to nearest neighbours windows & doors, all kosher.
So, first issue was the shed dimensions, 12 Mtrs. x 6 Mtrs. this was fine on one side, but because the back fence runs at an angle the left hand side of the shed needed to be 9 Mtrs. A request to the manufacturer to adjust the material to size was dismissed out of hand. So being a can do guy I just went and bought some extra steel sections to suit.
This was required because if you think about it swiveling one side of the back wall in 3 Mtrs. means the back wall becomes longer.
I had to replace the two roof joists and the lateral frames, the sheeting was fine because I had 3 Mtrs. left over from the side.
As I have had a lot of concreting done around here over the years, and most of it has cracked eventually I paid great attention the the floor.
Firstly because I hate caved in edges of footing holes I made round formers for each hole out of 3 mm. MDF strips from Bunnings about 500 mm. deep, I sat these in the holes all at the same height with a laser, so I could then hangs the upright bolt down feet on two bits of pine laying across the top of the former at exactly the right height and all level, and secure them to the former which was back-filled around with the crushed rock. This made pouring the footings a doddle.
Floor spec: two 50 mm. layers of crushed rock compacted separately, 200 mm. concrete slab poured inside finished shed and battered out to fence base boards outside (about 150 mm. Concrete saw cut expansion joints, filled with silastic after curing (3 months).
I built the frame and clad it on my own with no issues. Many people have been intrigued as to how I clad the two sides against the fences, that was pretty easy. Because the compacted crushed rock was a firm flat surface, I simply put a pivot bolt in the back corners of the frame and two big temporary caster wheels on the bottom of the frame and walked it out away from the fence a sufficient distance, leveled and clad it, and waled them back in.
Because there is only room for a small gate between the shed and the house, I ordered the shed with two front sliding doors and another door on the side at the front. This allows access to the back yard, I can easily get my small boat in and out.
The luck happenstance was the issue with the one short side.
What to do with the left over steel? This is when I came up with the best idea for this shed which has been really fantastic.
I built a mezzanine about one quarter the length of the shed over the workshop section (see pics). I left an access hole over the bench which lets in natural light, and I floored with over with yellow tongue painted white underneath.
This mezzanine provides a huge amount of storage space and will easily support pretty heavy items, all our crap goes up there.
I am a car guy, so I later added a 2 post hoist which I restored, and as it was only a 3 horse 3 phase motor I drive it with an inverter (no 3 phase here), bought from the States dirt cheap, this has slow start and works like a charm.
I also added a rain water tank, a large solar system, and a large wind out window bought on EBay on the backyard side.
Recently I have re clad the front in"Weathertex", and added a sign and an old style light for style.
Like most sheds I have managed to stuff it to the gills with everything under the sun, but I put everything on casters, (including the lathe) so it's easy to move stuff around.
BTW no cracks in the floor after about ten years.
Hope this info is useful to someone in the future.
Cheers
Tex260Z
20140924_122327.jpg2015-02-18 17.58.39.jpg20151018_115027.jpg27-5-06 017.jpgCrane track.jpgVPC.JPGHome (263).jpg
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25th May 2018, 05:22 PM #37
What I don't get is how you were able to get a DA without specifying what sort of shed would be constructed.
Also, you've given your location as "just outside Albury" which implies a large acreage lot. In turn this implies the possibility of something heavy using the shed and/or parking space in the not too distant future.
Me I'd be getting a slab suitable to park a truck on.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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25th May 2018, 07:04 PM #38GOLD MEMBER
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Quite true for small sheds. Big buggers, no way. And real big buggers are often as many as four or more pours. So whether that means one of those pours is for footing pier holes it makes little difference as there will be multi pours anyway. Some of the factories we have done would have been a nightmare to form and pour. One thing about infill - it always exactly fits the job.
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25th May 2018, 08:49 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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26th May 2018, 08:23 AM #40
The shed specification have already been completed along with the thickness of the slab currently at 100mm thick. If I am to modify this thickness I will most likely have to submit a modification to council. I am struggling as to weather this is worth the effort to have a thicker slab.
The original plan was for me to build this myself but that is not going to happen now. So I have been talking to builders to get them involved for the concreting and then the building of the shed.
Not many people know where Table Top is located and so I thought that having Just Outside Albury in the location is easier as Albury comes up easier in a search. Originally when the street created it was not on any of the maps and if you have an old GPS then you would struggle to find us. We are on 5 acres and most of it is still barren and our neighbours are in a similar situation. For the time that we are living here the changes of having a truck or similar heavy equipment in the shed is not going to happen. I am not farming anything just working around the house as my primary duties is home dad.
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26th May 2018, 10:11 AM #41GOLD MEMBER
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Christos your DA consent is just an approval of the concept of the structure/ improvements you want to do. Any structural changes you choose to make are of no consequence to your DA as long as you have not changed its physical appearance or location/ size etc. Typically you don’t submit structural plans for a DA and wait to do them latter in case they want you to amnend some aspect of your submission.
It is the Construction Certificate (CC) that details like structural and hydraulic design details come into play and even then, changing them will have no consequence on your certification as long as they are approved by your consultant. Increasing your slab thickness will not even worry them come site inspection so I wouldn’t be concerned about that aspect at all.
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26th May 2018, 03:24 PM #42
I guessed that your "just outside Albury" probably meant the large lot subdivision accessed from Tynan Road. In my prior life I was quite familiar with the area, particularly Tynan Road and Perryman Lane.
Although you are a stay at home dad, planning for a truck or small excavator is IMO a wise decision.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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26th May 2018, 07:00 PM #43
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26th May 2018, 08:01 PM #44
A chicken on both sides of the highway? I'm SURE there's a gag in there somewhere...
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26th May 2018, 08:41 PM #45
I'm sure someone will hatch one
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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