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  1. #76
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    Oct 2004
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    TwoSheds -

    that's an easy one. The shed!

    The house is 118 sqm
    The shed is 126.25sqm (not including the surrounding concrete).

    So the shed is officially larger than my house (just the way it should be).

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  3. #77
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
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    394

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    So when are you having a shed warming party & moving in!! That is one awesome shed. Well done.

  4. #78
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    Oct 2004
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    Hey OldGrain,

    I'm waiting on the sparkie now to wire up the sub-board and all the lighting as well as a couple of power points. I rang Felder to organise to get my gear out of storage but unfortunately the only suitable time for both of us is just pre-christmas, so it'll be a few weeks away before I see my toys again. I considered having a shed warming party before anything goes in there, but getting a bunch of woodies together, with no woodworking toys around to discuss/try out/play with, didn't seem like a good idea.

    If anyone is considering building a shed, and following this thread to get ideas, I'm more than happy for visitors to come over and discuss how this one went and perhaps get a few ideas for their upcoming build. If you want to do that, just PM me.

  5. #79
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
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    705

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    A great thread and shed, How do you sleep with all the ideas that must be going through you head...
    You only thing you have a lot of space..be interesting to see how it is after a few years of collection
    Look to be a steel trowel finish on the floor,,,Have you given it a seal as well? help stop those ops spills from being a permanent feature.

    Russell
    vapourforge.com

  6. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimberNut View Post
    .... I considered having a shed warming party before anything goes in there, but getting a bunch of woodies together, with no woodworking toys around to discuss/try out/play with, didn't seem like a good idea.......

    I would agree that it is better to see how the layout works before inviting woodies over. But then again how many woodies would come over to just visit a shed. I know that the last GTG in the Blue Mountains I was not going just to visit the shed but to catch up with the fellow forum members.

  7. #81
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
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    394

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    Hi TimberNut. This was probably mentioned elsewhere amongst the story but wondering even with the double roller doors allowing ventilation - are you installing any whirly birds? I remember when i had my d/garage built i had 2 put in.Made such a huge difference. Anyways its something you might come across as you do the fitout. I still want your shed even without whirly birds

  8. #82
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    nsw
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    Russell,
    Sleeping got postponed, sometime back in March when I started serious planning for this shed. I thought once the structure was up that we could get our lives back to normal, but I'm busy co-ordinating deliveries for electricals, preparing for wiring up the subboard and the lighting (hopefully happening this week) so it's still a busy time. I had planned to spend the 2 week christmas break working on the bathroom section, but to be honest I'm a bit weary from all the planning/demolition/construction, so enthusiasm for more construction is low right now.


    Re space - I've committed to SWMBO that her car will occupy one car spot, so that rules out a section already. The rest I'm sure will fill a lot quicker than I'd like.


    The concrete slab is a helicopter 'burned' finish. I think he went over it either 5 or 6 times. It's almost glass-like in it's smoothness. I discussed sealers with the concretor, and the guy that came and cut all the expansion joints in the slab, and they both advised against it. The thinking is that any seal on it will make it too slippery to walk on if it gets dust/water on it. The jury is still out on a sealer, and I'm guessing that the machines will get delivered and then the pain factor of moving them to apply any sealer later will mean that it probably won't happen. Time will tell if that is a bad move or not.


    Christos - I'm thinking of a 'shed warming' get together early in the new year, but I've no idea how many people would be interested in a Saturday lunch barbie and chin wag. How many guys got to the Blue Mountains ones?

  9. #83
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
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    76
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    19,922

    Thumbs up

    That is a seriously good shed TN!!! Plenty of enjoyment to be had in there!!

  10. #84
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    Oct 2004
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    nsw
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    52
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    Default whirlybirds

    Artme - thanks! No argument from me on that score!


    OldGrain - re whirlybirds:


    When I orignally ordered the shed, I had 3 whirlybirds included, but only 1 window (the large one you see on the front). Council wouldn't let me put a 2nd window in the bathroom, or they'd consider the whole thing dual-occupancy, and reject the DA, so it was left out. Before the final payment was made I did a deal with the shed supplier to delete the 3 whirlybirds, and supply a bathroom window with security mesh, and required steel framing instead. The window & steel worked out at about $350 more but he wore that cost. We agreed that they wouldn't fit the window, but would install the framing steel. That was my decision as I can't have a bathroom window fitted before final council inspection. After it's all signed off.....well....


    At my old house I was going to install a whirlybird, but when I looked into it, I found out that a powered option moves 3 times the air of a standard whirlybird. They use a thermostat, and run a small powered fan inside the unit. Cost is a fair bit more than a standard whirlybird, but air movement is significantly better. I installed the powered option at the house and the temperature change was huge! The biggest benefit came on the days when temps were really high, but there was no wind outside. Looking around I could see all the neighbours whirlybirds barely moving, but mine was pumping huge volumes out. I never regretted the cost of the powered option.


    So that's the background to my current thinking. I will be installing 1 (or maybe even 2) powered whirlybirds when I get the enthusiasm to investigate what the current best options are these days. I know there are solar powered ones now (eg http://solatube.com.au/home/roof-ven...-whirly-birds/). The powered one I installed before was this (http://www.edmonds.com.au/Products/R...ower-Vent.aspx)


    When I can get enthused enough to do my homework I'll be buying a couple and installing them myself. Once the shed has power and I can get out in it and play, I'm sure the shed temperatures will prompt me to get this sorted.

  11. #85
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    12,006

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimberNut View Post
    The concrete slab is a helicopter 'burned' finish. I think he went over it either 5 or 6 times. It's almost glass-like in it's smoothness. I discussed sealers with the concretor, and the guy that came and cut all the expansion joints in the slab, and they both advised against it. The thinking is that any seal on it will make it too slippery to walk on if it gets dust/water on it. The jury is still out on a sealer, and I'm guessing that the machines will get delivered and then the pain factor of moving them to apply any sealer later will mean that it probably won't happen. Time will tell if that is a bad move or not.
    my understanding is that the main purpose of the sealer (or paving paint) is to stop the dust which will come off the concrete surface every time you sweep it
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #86
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    Oct 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    my understanding is that the main purpose of the sealer (or paving paint) is to stop the dust which will come off the concrete surface every time you sweep it

    Hi Ian.

    It sounds like we are talking about 2 different sealing compounds here. The guy that came to do all the expansion cuts in the concrete sprayed the entire slab with what he described as a 'curing compound' (can be seen in the photos from my post on 1st Nov). He told me it was to help the slab cure and reduce chances of cracking, by sealing it to slow moisture loss as the slab cured.

    When I sweep the slab now, its smooth as glass, and hard as. There's no concrete dust disturbed. The top surface is sealed, from that point of view.

    I asked him about whether I should put any additional sealer type stuff over the slab later, and he said it'd only make the slab incredibly slippery if it got wet or dusty. As it is, when water sits on the slab, you don't want to go walking over it carelessly or you'll end up on your backside quick smart (just ask my young girls who had lots of fun running around on it before the shed erection started, right up until it rained one day.....tears followed )

  13. #87
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    Yeah, know the stuff you're talking about. Becomes as slippery as...
    Now that the slab is essentially cured you want to get rid of it or cover it with something less slippery.

    The similar products I was using 25 years ago used to break down under sunlight after a few weeks, but your slab is now in the shade
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #88
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    Oct 2004
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    Default latest update

    After many frustrating days waiting, the sparkie is finally due on site tomorrow.

    The lights all arrived yesterday, and I've already hung the sub-board in preparation for his arrival.
    The subboard is a commercial grade one (no cheap small plastic thing for me). In my old shed I had a (small ~16 DIN??) board, and the cabling was all bunched up, and when new circuits were required, it was near impossible to do without dismantling all the existing wiring. This time around I'm fixing the problem for good. The new board is a 48-DIN commercial board, with 160A main breaker. I'll post piccies after they've wired it, but let's just say that it is 'in proportion with the scale of the shed'

    Lighting - it's hard to know exactly how many I'll need, but we're starting with 21x twin baton 4-foot fluoros, each with 2x 18W LED tubes. They will be set as 10 in the large span, 10 in the smaller span rear section, and 1 in the bathroom. Front and rear sections will have their bank of 10 split across 2 switches each. That means the minimum I can turn on (excluding the bathroom), is 5 in either front or rear section. My thinking there is that if I'm working on the large machines, they'll be in the rear section, and I can leave the front ones off, and vice versa if I'm doing whatever work in the front span - no need to light the rear section. And if I'm just in the rear section and don't need massive amounts of light, I can leave 5 off.

    Fingers crossed that'll be enough lights (at the cost - they'd damn well want to be). I know I'll need a few specially targeted lights (ie directly above the lathe, possibly right beside the drill press etc), but I'll deal with those once all machines are in and I know what's going to live where.

    First pass at electricals - $6k, with more to come later. I vaguely recall a time when bills didn't come in factors of $1000...

    The machines arrive next week, and I can't run 3-phase power point circuits yet because I've never had this much space to work in, and I really don't know exactly where the best spot for every machine is. Hopefully when they are delivered we can fiddle around with the layout a bit till I am happy, but in my head I know that at some time in the next few months, they will most likely all get shuffled around, as I figure a better way to lay them out. The only problems there - all the 3 phase wiring will need to be re-done, and I don't have a pallet jack.

    Any ideas on how to source/borrow a pallet jack for a day or so if I decide to relocate stuff?

  15. #89
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,756

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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    my understanding is that the main purpose of the sealer (or paving paint) is to stop the dust which will come off the concrete surface every time you sweep it
    The other reason is to reduce the impact of staining. Stuff like oils and moisture from wet sawdust can penetrate a long way into concrete especially during the first year, so a coat of sealant, even if it eventually wears off lis worth using.The finish applied also does not have to be slippery. I guess it depends on what you hope to achieve and can appreciate the cost involved of such a large area.

    For our 240 m2 Mens Shed we are going for an industrial/commercial finish. The floor is already very smoothly troweled but will be sanded (not polish) several times to remove and smooth the residues left by other trades, e.g. plasterers and painters, and then finished with a professional grey non-slip sealant. We are fortunate that this is being donated to us as the cost would put it well outside our budget. If the floor finish was not donated we still would have sealed it (ourselves) with something that was within our budget.

    If you are unsure of where your machines are going to be located, even with 3 Phase I would seriously consider running overhead wires and suspending some power sockets from these wires.

  16. #90
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimberNut View Post
    After many frustrating days waiting, the sparkie is finally due on site tomorrow. .....

    What so close to Christmas and you got a sparkie?

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