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Thread: My first shed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
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    Default My first shed

    Hi everyone, I've been lurking on here for a little while ready lots of your shed threads and have learned heaps but think I need a bit more specific info.


    long story short my new shed is being built next week 5x4.5m 2400mm high Stratco job with concrete poured after construction (everything I've read shows this will be stronger and more likely to stop the ingress of water and insects). I know it's a small shed and I will want it bigger but council already reduced it and I have a massive veggie patch/established fruit trees on my small block so I couldn't probably go much bigger, plus my local Men's Shed is where I will do all my milling/machining. It's also a shared garage for my missus car 😇


    I've been researching heaps about insulating and decided against anticon being installed during the shed build so I have an excuse to build a stud wall and properly insulate the shed.


    The stud wall is the part I would love some advice on.


    I was planning on using 90x35 h2 @ 600 centres with a thermo building wrap for moisture protection and batts to sit just proud of the 150mm Metal C frame posts to enable me to fully clad in plywood after. This will give me about 130mm airgap to the external cladding. Wall will be bolted to the pad and fixed to Perlins for auxiliary vertical support where needed?


    For the roof I was thinking about a false cathedral ceiling again with building wrap and batts again and lined but this is where I was sure how to do it.


    I was thinking rafters to a ridge board with collar ties only and having a perimeter support but no rafter ties seeing as the framing isn't carrying a structure? Would that work? It would be 120x35s connected to a 120/140x35 ridge board with 90x35 on ends supporting the ridge at either end.


    Basically I'm thinking of framing up a whole new sub structure within the shed that will be sealed and any hot air between the outside and inside walls with be whiffed away by the whirlybird on top.


    Any tips would be great and I'll be doing an epoxy floor coat as well before all this.

    Cheers

    Daniel

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  3. #2
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    May 2013
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    Default

    Welcome to the forum Daniel.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Thornton NSW
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    walls sounds ok, but I wouldn't go to that much trouble for the ceiling. It's much easier if you sark the roof beforehand, and instead of timber framing it you can either fix foil board to the underside of the tophat battens or if need be fix battens to the underside of the top hat then fix foil board to them. This will provide an insulating air gap between the sarking and the foilboard which maximises insulation performance.

  5. #4
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    I will echo what Richmond 68 has said - you may choose to forgo anticon on the walls (I didn't, but you can get away with it),bu t please put sarking up on the roof. It truly is well worth while, the reduction in heat in summer, and the retention of warmth in Winter is well worth the small extra cost.

    For sealing against crawlies and bugs (and bigger), check this link out: Campbell Shed Products There are several similar products on the market you can use.

  6. #5
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    Thanks Midnight Man,

    My installer didn't seem very keen to install it plus it gives me a chance to build something and practice my framing for the house renos! It will be wrapped in a vapour barrier so should be fine re condensation I would have though.

    Thanks for for the link to that site but the slab is being poured afterwards so the shed will be water and vermin tight in theory!

    I might just use 90x35 rafters to a 120x35 ridge board. Any experienced thoughts out there?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Thornton NSW
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    A steel shed will form condensate on the inside of the cladding, with a post poured slab you let no vermin in but the condensation can't escape through the bottom of the wall sheets either. Putting in a few louvre vents to ventilate the wall cavity will help.

    As for framing a cathedral ceiling, there is no guessing. Calculate your spans and load to determine the size of timber required under AS1684. But at risk of repeating myself, it's a waste of money when you can simply line your roof with rigid polystyrene insulation.

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