Thread: small shed build

I would suggest mgp 10 H2.

Will it be lined ceiling?

I assume the rafters will span the short side?

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Also need the height of the walls as this will effect the size stuf you need.

The size .... is this outside dimensions or inside dimensions?

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

No linings planned at this stage, but ceiling could be lined in the future. Planning the front to be 2400mm high internally and sloping down from there to the back. I think the minimum fall for the iron I was looking at was 3%, but haven't worked out what that gives me at the back. Shed dimensions are external.

Assuming insulation and pasterboard you are looking at 140 x 35 mgp 10 to span 3.7 at 450 centers. On the 3.8 length your span would be 3.62 if using 90 mm studs.

This is asssuming a 40kg mass per m2

Studs of 90 x 35 at 450 centres lining up under the rafters would do the job fine.

If you are using corrugated iron then minimum fall is recommended of 5°

You could go for 600 mm stuf centres on the other wall but in the end probably only one or two extra studs per wall to go for 450 centres

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Thanks Dave, I just checked the Lysaght specs for Trimdek profile, can go down to 2%, although I might go a bit more than that.

5% equals 200mm fall over 4metres, 3% equals 120mm. So rear wall would be around 2280mm to 2200mm internal height.

I suppose if I run the rafters from side to side I reduce the span, and also can use the rafters as battens to fix roofing also? Does it matter that rafters would be on a slight lean from vertical?

Would it be worth using LVL's to reduce overall height a bit or are they too expensive?

Non structural or "merch" grade pine is around half the price of MGP10 structural grade, is it worth considering?

It is structual so merchant is not a consideration unless you have steel poles and beams or sutiable timber posts and beams to hold the structure.

The walls not supporting the rafters / purlins could be merchant but i would still recommend treated so as not to have termite or reduce termite issues.

Runing side to side is fine though i would suggest solid blocking at the ends and midspan.

I would go higher for wall height if there is an option.

Yes lvl's tend to be more expensive

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Yeah Dave, I'm just keeping height down a bit to reduce impact on neighbours. Not going through council as it's replacing an existing shed. (maybe a bit bigger)

Neighbours are pretty good but I don't want to push it.

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

It is structual so merchant is not a consideration unless you have steel poles and beams or sutiable timber posts and beams to hold the structure.

The walls not supporting the rafters / purlins could be merchant but i would still recommend treated so as not to have termite or reduce termite issues.

Runing side to side is fine though i would suggest solid blocking at the ends and midspan.

I would go higher for wall height if there is an option.

Yes lvl's tend to be more expensive

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Hi again guys, sorry to resurrect this old thread but after 4 months+ I've finally bought all my timber as per Dave's suggestions.

So I'm going to install the rafters from side to side which will be across the slope of the roof, with solid blocking as suggested. My question is, can I lay the roof sheets straight onto the rafters and just screw down into them, or do I need to put battens on top?

And if I do screw straight down into the rafters there is only going to be 35mm wide edge to aim for, I'm worried I might miss here and there, or just catch the edge and split out the side. Can you see this being a problem, and if so what should I do?

Don't need battens. Just screw into the rafters (that's what my grandad did). Use a string from one end of the rafter to the other and you should miss it.

My reply did not post but was linger version of above

Rather than a string line i use a chalk line and flick across each sheet. Put a nail on the very edge in the centre of each rafter and line your chalk line with center of rafter over sheet and flick a line.

With the next sheet the hook on the chalkline should have a hole that fits over last screw in sheet edge and line up the same again. If you need a pic to show let us know

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Thanks for those replies fellas, that's just what I needed to know. No need for pictures. I'm starting to build it next weekend so I'll put up some pictures as I go.

It's not for woodworking, it's for the missus who does mosaics. ATM she's sharing my shed so I'm building this one to get her out of there, so this will be her mosaic studio, and I'll get some much needed space back in mine.

Cheers, Peter

Originally Posted by 3 toed sloth

Thanks for those replies fellas, that's just what I needed to know. No need for pictures. I'm starting to build it next weekend so I'll put up some pictures as I go.

It's not for woodworking, it's for the missus who does mosaics. ATM she's sharing my shed so I'm building this one to get her out of there, so this will be her mosaic studio, and I'll get some much needed space back in mine.

Cheers, Peter

nice brownie points

Happy wife, happy life.
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