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Thread: Shed build

  1. #121
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

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    Two ute loads of paving sand in the last few days, barrowed, filled, levelled and tamped. Channel grate fettled in to the front face of the shed at the required level. The need for channel down the left side is shown in pic (2_water) the result of an hour rain this arvo.

    A bit more garden bed to dig out now that rain has softened things. And made a start on the paving. I'll clamp some steel or timber either side tomorrow just to straighten the rows up that last little bit, before going wider.

    Also went to the glass brick shop today and ordered two 6x3 panel kits, for the apexes front and rear. Let the light in.

    Got a 105mm diamond blade for an angle grinder yesterday, cuts cleanly but not large enough diameter to cut through half a brick, and chisel to break apart leaves a fair dimple. Will dig out a bolster and see if that helps. The other thing is getting two exact same sizes, still working on that. A brick saw and a stop would be the go. Speaking of which I went to a. MSG auction today and a brick saw went for c. $300. Not enough to justify, hire would be cheaper.

    I went to the auction after an Arboga U2508 Milling machine, tilt head, good size for my needs, small footprint and manageable (450lb).
    # 370 on the list. I got to the crowd just as 372 was being bid. Bugger. Arboga $1500.
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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    Looks good! I concur with the water today, got drenched in the hills!

  4. #123
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default pathway progress

    After laying an initial test run on the path leading to the shed, I realised that by the time I worked across left to the shed doorway, the rows would probably not end up being symmetrical to the doorway. So started a second layup, working out from the doorway. Working across to the right, It became obvious that the rows were not quite square enough to the front wall, and the small amount of creep was going to get amplified once the longer pathway was extended from the rows across the front. Pulled a row and started laying across again but was still not convinced it was square enough.

    Visuals were not helped by the line of grass dug out being about 20cm out of square. So much for eyeballing.

    Time to run a string-line down the side of the shed and extended to the start of the pathway, and try to measure back off that. Hmmm. Then resorted to the laser and the gizmo that goes beep. After pfaffing about to get one (half) beam parallel to the front face of the shed, and hence the other beam normal to the face, much playing around with the gizmo that goes beep to get a line of bricks extending all the way to the steps, that for all intents and purposes looked like it was parallel to the long axis of the shed. I gotta get me a green beam, and one that extends forward and back in all 3 dimensions..

    With a bit of edge location finally defined by some lengths of RHS, I relaid the pathway. Looking good enough.

    Picked up 36 glass bricks (made in Bohemia!), two 6x3 frames and fixings and silicone today; $450.
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  5. #124
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default more pathway

    Been beavering away at the pathways, and the pile of bricks is finally dispersed in a horizontal and organised approximation of pathways. About 2500 in all.

    Finally got to installing a new section of copper pipe to the irrigation solenoids to replace the blue stripe poly pipe at the corner of the house. Poly pipe may be convenient but the bend radius is more conceptual than practical. If I had used a couple of elbows that would have alleviated the issue I now realise; the run under the paving running up to the main valve on the corner wall, would not bend to a true vertical, thus causing a side load on the fitting which would leak now matter how tightly secured. Copper 3/4" piping solved that. Had a problem finding paste flux; even 2 of local plumbing supply stores looked at me blanky. Everyone uses silver solder. Not me since all I have is propane (ever since the oxy gear was disappeared). Propane does not work with silver grade flux. Eventually thought ahaha: electrical hobby store; success. Then also found it at Bumblings of all places. So pipes fixed after a year of exposure, then got to play with the paving puzzle.


    Relaid the main path bricks in order to get the projection from the rows across the relaid front area bricks, and levelled out a small hollow. Concreted in the beginnings of a low retaining wall, and dug out the clay and rocks pretending to be soil, along the fenceline to c. 600mm depth, and brought in decent soil. Planning to put in row of 3 or 4 European Hornbeam. Finding them in Oz is of course difficult, and in Adelaide impossible.

    The left side of the shed pathway required digging out and back into the slope, and laying the grated channel. More sand and bricklaying, and a bit of terracing to bring some order to things.
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  6. #125
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default Eaves framing

    The paving and some surrounding gardening has occupied the last 5 or six weeks or so, and finally got a 8 cubic meter skip and got rid of the accumulated pile of soil from the front yard. All this from the pathways and digging out the slope for the side path, and tree bed.

    Finnally back into real shed stuff, and framing for the eaves and glass bricks. A piece of 90x45 pine sitting on top of the girt (65x35x3mm) and secondary girt (40x40x1.6mm) full width. Notched to locate the vertical members; a bit of trenching on the mitre saw. The vertical posts needed a bit more fettling to fashion tenons fit between the rafter and the fascia. I initially cross cut and chiselled, then decided to try milling them down on the router. A combination worked best.

    I boxed the aluminium glass brick frame in 90x35mm. Then fitted the combination up against the main framing members and a bit of playing around to get the correct fore/aft positioning. A second timber framing in front will hold the aluminium frame in place, and that will be rebated to accept the ends of the horizontal cladding. Pictures will make it clear. I'm working it out as a I go.
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  7. #126
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default Apex cladding

    I picked up the cladding materials, DesignPine 185x18 as 5.4m lengths and cut nominal lengths for the apex. I would have preferred rough sawn, for the appearance, but the primed design pine was there, and much less painting... Rough sawn would probably have been much cheaper; 10 lenghts of DesingPine was c. $800.

    I did the shiplap on the router table. The rebates initially as 19mm, extended to 24mm on the lower external face, then a bevel cut with a chamfer bit. Adding the Kapex UG extension to CMS router table was handy. It is a cobbled fit however as the router fence interferes with the extension fence, hence the back to front fitment of the extension. The extra support is invaluable however.

    Once the shiplap was routed, the bare tiber edges were primed with oil based one step. Dulux, dries in half an hour or so.

    The bottom length at each end will be one continuous length. A mate is coming over tomorrow to help handle that one through the router. Would have been nice to only have to set up each cut once, but at least the shed build is happening again.
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  8. #127
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default cladding painting

    Got 2 coats of primer/sealer on the apex cladding. Water based Dulux; my mistake not to notice it was not oil based when I bought it. Galloping senility I'm thinking. Started on the topcoat. I wanted a grey a bit darker than the one of the Woodland grey Colorbond. Bought a couple of litres from Bumblings, noting to particularly helpful sales person it was possibly a bit light, but close. her: no problem, just bring it back, we can double tint it. Fine.

    Got back, did two coats on the first couple of pieces; too light. Back to bumblings the next day: bought this yesterday. was told it can be double tinted if too light, it is a bit light and I would like it double tinted. No, we cant do that, who said that...? Why do I waste my time? Dropped in to the local Mitre 10 hardware, explained the issue, acknowledging I bought the paint from elsewhere, can I get a compatible can of black to mix in? No problem I'll just add some black tint, there can be an issue with the quantity of tint required at times, but some has been used so no problem. there ya go, how's that? Terrific. No charge. Thank you indeed.

    This morning was slated to rout the two lower 4.8m lengths. One of the would be helpers (need help to support the lengths either side of the router) getting a 5x3 shed pack delivered at 9am, can I ( and other enlisted helper #2) help unload? 11am it arrives, guy has motorised pallet and lift back truck; helpers superfluous. 37 degC today so a bit warm to be in the midday sun routing shiplap. Try again tomorrow.
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  9. #128
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default apex cladding

    progress on the apex clading
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  10. #129
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default glass bricks up

    finished filling the fixing holes for the front, a primer coat and a couple of top coats to blend it all in. Will need to give one last coat I think when I get my scaffold back.

    Cut and prepped the cladding for the back apex, cut too short on a couple of lengths, or rather ended up with a couple of not long enough for the back after pirating 2 lengths for the front to have a second go at the notching for the girts. So resorted to joining 90mm back on using Festool dominos. invisible once primed and painted.

    On the back I used SPAX screws 4.0x40mm, as I had a a few sizes lying around. SOOOO much faster; no need to pilot drill, the point easily pushes in a few mm to positively locate before starting, no need to 'lean' on the drill, the screws literally pull themselves in, and no need to chamfer, they really do cut their own. Want it deeper; give it another turn. The driver is a variant on a Torx, and holds the screw snugly, even horizontally without falling out. Can't do that with a Phillips or Pozidrive. EVERYONE should do themselves a favour and try a few of these.

    Did all the back except for the full width bottom board, from the mezzanine and out the window.

    Painted the glass block frames in gloss black. I had got the frames made up from as leftover lengths of cream profile and bricks as surplus to an order from the glass brick shop; $450 for front and rear, which I thought was a really good deal. Aluminium stiffeners and plastic spacers that fit to the stiffeners, go in place easily. I had the one window done in about a half an hour. I won't silicone yet as I may pull them out when I do the floor, to let more breeze through for drying. Piece of baclava. I think it looks great. Very pleased.
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  11. #130
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Peoples Republic of Bryn
    Posts
    393

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    Ive been using Hafele T-Star headed screw's for the last 10 years on almost everything, they look very similar to the SPAX torx heads you used.

    Once you use them its hard to go back, to a Pozidrive or Phillips head.

    The shed is looking great, the colour on the weather board is spot on

  12. #131
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

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    yesterday got the right side dug down for the drain channel, and cut the initial frame of the platform that will be going down the side.

    Went and got a scoop (600kg) of crushed dolomite today, barrowed it all to the back, finished levelling off and laying the drainage channel. A few cheap 'sleepers' to retain things. Fettled the joints on the frame, and stick welded the corners inside and outside, plus the cross braces. Hot day 36 degC today.
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  13. #132
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default steel decking

    The decking is a 3m x 1400mm platform destined for the right side of the workshop, between it an the downhill fence.

    Welded on the legs to the decking frame, allowing for one side c. 200mm shorter due sitting on the raised garden bed. Moved the frame into place along the right side of the workshop. levelled up things once in situ. Scored some steel platform grating yesterday as a freebie. Almost enough. 32mmx5mm bar galvanised that has been lying around a mates for the last 8 years. Two panels 1650x650, one 1650x550 and one 1650x400. Welded in an extra angle iron cross bar into the frame to support the grate cut ends, and cut to length with a 9" angle grinder. Managed to set my polo shirt on fire from the sparks, bloody synthetic mixes... a couple of blisters on the fingers from brushing off the melting material and flames erupting from the gut. Why I prefer natural fabrics!

    I will have to get some flat bar and fabricate some infills if I can't find a bit of appropriate sized grid. I was looking at perforated steel mesh at c.$600 a 3x1.2m panel, so the scoring the platform grating panels was a win. Deck is 3m x 1400mm.

    It just might be about 100mm too high unfortunately, so after a few seated sessions gazing at the horizon over the fence, I might have to resort to the angle grinder to shave the legs.
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  14. #133
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
    Posts
    1,436

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    What is the platform for?

    Pete

  15. #134
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

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    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    What is the platform for?

    Pete

    its just a deck. A couple of chairs, watch the sunset, fireworks on the coast new years eve...

    Mind you, it would be handy for occasional parts washing and high pressure hose

  16. #135
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default paving and lawn border

    Cut more half bricks to finish the main pathway. Standing them on edge on the drop saw with the diamond blade was the trick, each neatly half way through. Laid solid bricks (no holes) along the lawn side of the path, and 100mm HDPE lawn edging as an additional barrier to the buffalo grass.

    Finished the low retaining wall along the pathway paving, topping with solid bricks. Doesn't look entirely straight in the photo, an optical illusion due the variegated patterning! Buried the lawn sprinklers and lines around the perimeter of the lawn.

    Laid concrete foundation for the retaining wall around the garden side of the lawn, using bags of cement mortar I had lying around. Mistake; not strong enough. The mix is too sandy, read not enough actual cement proportion, and can be scratched with a trowel after a day. It didn't help that the first batch got rained on a few hours after laying. The second batch after a day is much harder. Stood on a couple of sections where there is pathways leading off, and they cracked, not fully cured I know, but another indicator of a bit too weak. Mind you the thickness is only 50mm or less, sitting on top of 50mm of compacted crushed dolomite - Its only 2 rows of bricks as the wall. I got some proper concrete mix yesterday and higher strength mortar mix, and will relay the 2 sections at the pathway mouths.

    Put some chairs and a marble cafe table on the deck. The chairs are old French garden chairs I bought 20 plus years ago in Sydney. I had them bronzed back then (c.$500) but it was not entirely successful. The verdigris developed is nice but broken by rust in the crevices etc. The seats in particular get surface rust. I did get some verdigris copper based paint at some point and will have a stab at blending in before the summer is over.
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