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Thread: Shed build

  1. #136
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    259

    Default back at it

    It's been a while since there has been any time spent on the shed build, languishing I think is the concept.

    Built a small entrance framing, and sourced a couple of French doors off gumbie-tree for $130. The plan for some time has been to have a front heavy door (steel framed with c. 2" jarrah) and a small entrance with glass French doors - so let the light in and keep the weather out. Was planning to make a pair with 2 columns of glass panels each door, but these were an ideal fit and cheap. Feels different inside even without the short entrance walls clad.

    The timber lengths outside I had been storing for use as cladding; yet to plane and thickness. Initial bit milled down and with some tests with wax, oil and clear coat looked terrible; went very black; hmmm. Plan B: then I saw some salvaged jarrah floorboards on gumbie-tree, and thought to myself, "self; good colour, a bit wider, reasobaqle price" ( $7/ lm, 140mm x 20mm) , got 111 lengths and went at it.

    Sawed the edges with track saw and collected the dust for later use as wood flour filler. The edges are really cruddy, hard on the blade, so needed to step in a bit which is ok on the tongue side. I initially thought to just trim the groove side, but the crud, you could hear it and feel it. Fortunately the blade is due for replacement. Got about 5 litres of jarrah flour in the pot. I used Seneca narrow stock guides for the second side if anyone is interested, they worked fine. I did get an Durden combination saw a month ago, but it is not running yet.

    The nail holes and voids etc. had been filled at some point with what looks like polyester filler; pink. Not a good look under the planned clear epoxy final finish. I dug out a test bit (left of the middle nail hole) and filled with jarrah flour and Araldite. Quite reasonable at first glance. I have a cunning plan to blend it in even a bit more.

    I sanded the boards down to remove the old clear coati with 80 grit Rubin 2 on a Festool Rotex orbital, a bit tedious, about 20-30 minutes per board, Then found some 40 Grit Granat, that went faster. The problem is a slight cup 1-2mm across the boards. I will Domino them together, but the result may be a bit wavy as is. It is only a shed wall after all, but I'll test a couple on a planer and thicknesser, if only to use the thicknesser on the last 4 boards to remove the clear coat.
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  3. #137
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

    Default planing jarrah boards

    Took the jarrah floorboards over to a mate's today, and ran the backsides across the planer. to take out the mm or two of cup. Then ran some through a Ryobi AP13 bench top thicknesser; hard work. It really didn't like them at all, probably cutting only 0.2mm at a time, either the board wouldn't feed, or it wouln't cut, not much margin. Eventually an incorrect first feed stalled it completely and locked the height adjustment. Managed to flip the power off quickly so don't think any damage done; except to breaking off a couple of teeth on the plastic height adjustment gears. Bugger. Search internet, no joy for this older model (except one site at $47 use each). Thought to try Oz Ryobi website, no listing for older stuff, but local repairer... so call, yep he has them, $11 each ( 4 thanks!) and he is only c. 3 miles away; bonus!Part: 089170100133I'll be dreaming about a Hammer A3 tonight I'm sure.Back over again tomorrow to make repairs.
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  4. #138
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    259

    Default shelving unit up to the mezzanine

    Been moving stuff in and juggling to find a workable fit. One rack I made a few years ago was about 150mm to high to fit under the roof where I wanted, so had to cut and shut. 1800mm wide works at ground level, and seriously thought about cutting in half, but decided to see if I could lift it up with a rope pulley. Would be far easier once the gantry is installed.


    Initially lifting the top corner both ran out of lift height (lower hook/pulley hit the upper pulley) and due to the angle , wedged. Attempt two, lifting from a lower point on the frame, managed to get the nose over the mezzanine beam, then drag it up and on. Did I say cutting it in half would have been easier?

    Also made a cart for the shop vac and separator. The hoses and the constant falling over of the separator was driving me crazy for ages. Even found some new castors. Now minimal footprint, it easily tucks away into a back corner.
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  5. #139
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    Adelaide
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    Default jarrah entrance walls

    Ran the previously prepped jarrah floor-boards across the router to joint the edges, and cut to nominal length (2.2m). Fettling the Festool CMS router fence to get fine alignment is (&^*^% tedious process; a bit like setting tappets when the threads have been abused, snug and change - align the fence by the putty little nylon 'gib' screw, then snug the fence clamp (alignment ok), then tighten the main adjuster which loads the main adjustment shaft and alignment not ok. Repeat... After the sawing down to straighten, and remove the tongue and generally the grooves, average board width is down to about 125mm (from 140mm), and I'm a board short! Another trip to the source required.

    Got on with Domino-ing the edges. Spacing every 200mm, using 5x30mm dominos - because I had a box lying around unused, rather than the 6x40mm which I'm out of. Given that it is only setting the surface height, the 5mm should be perfectly adequate. Used the tight fit domino mortise setting on one side of each board, and the wider setting ( gives 6mm sideways clearance) on the other side. So side to side lineup is no problem.

    After glue up I'll sand to get rid of the remaining original finish. The thicknesser was such a slow process, the sanding will be easier. Have been contemplating a belt sander too.
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  6. #140
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    Default first glue up - jarrah

    Glued up the first 5 boards for one wall. one joint line at a time; 2 sets of pairs, then on board to one pair, then the 3 +2. Just on 20 minutes for each joint to glue and clamp up. Used RHS (3mm wall) 75x50 and 65x35mm for cauls. Result is quite reasonable.

    Tried to add photos but the joys of the web software tells me I don't have privileges - my thread, logged in... sigh.
    <<<
    node105, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

    1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
    2. If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

    >>>

  7. #141
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    Default

    Abranet Ace HD Ceramic Discs are great for finish removal . . . also good for fingerprint removal as well, DAMHIKT!

    $2.80 each, but you don't need many and it saves time.

    No pecuniary interest, just a happy user.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  8. #142
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    Abranet Ace HD Ceramic Discs are great for finish removal . . . also good for fingerprint removal as well, DAMHIKT!

    $2.80 each, but you don't need many and it saves time.
    Thanks for that Pat. I have been using the Mirka Abranet 70x198mm sheets for a while for hand sanding, and find them fantastic - excellent durability, complete replacement for wood sanding and auto body work for me. I have some Festool P40 Granat for my Rotex 150 and they cut like crazy, and quite durable, but I would suspect the Abranet to be more so.

    The Mirka pads will not stick securely to the Festool pad directly, according to one utub video, but the Mirka blurb on the linked site you provided suggest they do. Go figure. Utub video suggests it needs an intermediate Mirka Pad Saver which has the extraction holes and comparable 'velcro' on the pad side, and the different 'velcro' pattern on the abrasive sheet side. As per utub. video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNyLLIYg1QY .

    Axminster is one source for the Mirka pad savers. (e.g. $9.95 AUD per 150mm pad). with 'reviews' enthusiastic for real word extended life of the relatively expensive backing pad life when using the Pad Savers.

    I will order some Mirka, thanks.

    As a side note, I enquired of one of the 2 large wood suppliers here in Adelaide the other week, re getting the boards planed and thicknesses ( as the thicknesser I had available to me wasn't coping); they wouldn't touch them if they had finish on them due to finish blunting their blades.

  9. #143
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    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    Default

    This is the Pad Saver that I use on my Metabo.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  10. #144
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
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    259

    Default

    Yep, that's the pad, Pat. After a bit more research, my guess is the loops on the Festool/whatever backing pad, are long enough to project through the Abranet backing mesh and into the Abranet abrasive matrix, and get worn down. I did find a tube vid of close up of the matrix, should have taken a grab at the time. The abrasive chunks are embedded in a resin 'rope' arrangement, and that overlays the woven backing.

    Got the 5th board for one wall glued up. Ready to cut to size tomorrow. Also working on some storage cupboard doors, and went to do the dominoes today, but the cutting wasn't cutting. I thought it sounded odd yesterday when I was doing the last dominoes on the jarrah. On closer inspection, and comparison against another cutter, the carbide end has snapped off. Bugger. May have been a hidden nail in the last jarrah board.

    Also had 12 100mm castors delivered today via fleabay, so started on some mounting plates from 6mm flat bar. I had some angle iron frames with 50mm castors for a couple of Brownbuilt cabinets, better than dragging them, but basically overloaded.

    No photo's uploading, again.

    Found the link (web history!). Mirka Abranet under the microscope. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFpbnzLcaHY

    Woven polyamide fabric backing mesh, with Aluminium Oxide in resin

  11. #145
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    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
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    259

    Default wall boards glue up

    pics from last week, jarrah glue up, and plates for cabinet frame castors
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  12. #146
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    Default Abranet

    Abranet abrasive matrix close up
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  13. #147
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    Default

    Cut the glued up Jarrah board panel to width, and length, and notched as required. In the end the final width was only 15mm short of what I had originally planned, so that can be covered with a small bit of quad/whatever. It did occur to me the rather than get another board, I could just cut down the width of the wall frame easily enough, but not needed in the end.

    Screwed some waste strips to the backs in situ, and used these to position glueing up some 70x30mm pine battens to the backs with construction adhesive (Sikaflex), and sanded using Festool Granat 40 to flush the joint surfaces in places, and remove the last of the original clear coat. Figured the battens will help keep it flat over time, and can use them to fix to - didn't want to screw in from the front.

    The thicknesser process had its shortcomings, so an ideal flat surface is not in place yet. It's only a shed wall. Have been looking lustfully at the Festool 105 belt sander though... note to self; it's only a shed wall.

    Also stripped cleaned and reassembled a couple of Dawn 6"/150mm vises I picked up for $25 each a month ago. One is quite good, still has machining marks on the slides, but a bent handle (press should fix that), the other has been broken and welded, and is destined for a new home. Given the existing small collection of bench vises ( Heuer, Record, Dawn, Wilton, and a nice ? Tafe project 6" ) , there is one Dawn too many.
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  14. #148
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    Default epoxy filling the jarrah

    Dug out all the old pink filler used for nail holes etc, and also gum voids. Used West System: Epoxy 105, and 206 Slow Hardener. Dispensed 5:1 ml using ordinary clinical syringes, mixed for 2 minutes, then added about a quarter by volume of Colloidal Silica, and then jarrah flour until there was a peanut butter kinda consistency. I taped up the back side of the holes to prevent any epoxy drain through.

    Probably should have used a faster hardener, as the day temperature was 14-17 degC, which is on the bottom limit for the 206. The sun came out, and a cheap borrowed IR probe gave 25 deC or so to the panel surface. I had also stood the 2 bottles of epoxy components in the sink with hot water to get the temperature up.

    The colloidal silica is meant to stop the low viscosity resin, weeping out from the sawdust/epoxy paste. All I could get in provincial Adelaide was a 1Kg bag (c. $50), so if anyone wants some, I have several lifetime supplies. The next day, it is not ready for sanding, so unsure of the resultant colour. The mix was far darker than the preliminary test batch I had done with Araldite and jarrah flour. I didn't bother to sieve the jarrah flour, or silica.

    One 50ml resin/hardener + silica/jarrah mix did all the required filling on the one panel in the attached pic.
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  15. #149
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    259

    Default welding table

    I posted this over in Metalwork forum, but as a long term part of part of my shed build plan, it might be of interest to a possibly different audience, and is an inherent part of the build history in a way.A small milestone of sorts. I have been moving stuff in for the last 2 months or so, and playing juggle the pieces. This is the first real indoor fabrication project, and one I have been looking forward to for a bloody long time.

    I saw a slat top welding table using RHS, 30 years ago, walking past an open doorway of Uni Adelaide Engineering Dept. workshop one afternoon, and thought to myself, 'self: I gotta build me one like that one day' (thinking of the clamping possibilities), and not having to move a steel plate which in my current situation of limited access down and around the narrow side of the house and up 6 or 7 steps, would be a serious issue.

    I got the trolley base complete with wheels for $30 at a factory auction about 3 years ago. It had a couple of triangle frames on top, and was used for moving chipboard/melamine sheets. It's open C , 4mm wall, plenty good enough for the purpose at hand, given the cost and it being an existing construction; otherwise RHS would be the go. Two of the ends were cut down lower than the other for reasons unknown. So I had welded the offcuts back on a few months ago.


    Note to Moph : I finally got me a laser, and it's green! The best part is it gives 3 full intersecting planes, i.e. concurrent forward and back projection in all 3 planes. IMEX LX3DG


    Today I levelled the floor with some offcuts, using a laser, 1 mm discrimination was no problem. Wanted to have a level starting point, to then reasonably establish equal heights on the 4 corners. Ended up with 0deg in all directions including diagonals, using the Stabila electronic spirit level, so good enough, particularly over only 1.2m length. 0deg is nice to see of course, but alway have to bear in mind the inherent precision/error, so always a good idea to swap the level around 180 deg to cross-check. 0.1 degree over 1.2m is 2.094mm, so '0 deg' is of course an 'estimate'.


    So I then used the laser to establish tops for the 4 corner posts, and angle grinder action to trim down. The laser worked really well, often it was easy to get the 1mm wide laser line breaking over the very top of the leg, and the square when checking the 'shadowed' side ( see pic).

    The important flatness will be the co-planarity of the top RHS rails - for which I have a 'cunning plan'. As there will be some inherent amount of not true flat in the heights of the 4 corner post tops, despite the measured degree of level, I plan to make a 3 layer sandwich, consisting of the 2 main side to side rails , the main surface members, then 2 more side to side rails on top of those, clamped up for tacking, it should be reasonably flat.

    Cut some 90x8mm flat bar to act as supports on top of the legs. These will completely cover/close the leg tops. I was thinking of bolting down the 2 main RHS to these plates, so that the whole top could be taken off , if I ever need to move it somewhere else/fit through a doorway/ or if I bowed it ... But unless I change the spacing, a top (front to back) RHS rail will cover the access hole I was planning to put in the side to side support rails. So welded it will be.

    I have some RHS is 75x50x3mm offcuts from my shed build ( as per pic) for the top rails, but I am thinking I may as well go 4mm as I have to get more anyway (14 top rails in all).
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  16. #150
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    Default LED panel lights

    I bought 7 Clipsal 1.2m x300mm LED panel lights a month ago, and bent up some temporary brackets to get the panels up under the mezzanine floor, to see what the light was like. They are excellent.

    I have been pondering how best to flush mount them, the bracket were a temporary solution. I though abut folding some Z or C from ball shed, then look at aluminium channel, and saw some to purpose mounting frames on the web, but $40 each or so was a bit much. Then I had the idea to cut some timber frames, but thought temperature effects might be a problem with plywood on side and bottom lip... or maybe routed... Then thought I could use a those plastic shed supports ( which I had just got a bag of 100 of). Hmmmm.


    I wasn't concerned about fire risk, but flush mounting against structaflor, is bound to raise the operating temperature, and therefore decrease the life span. So I borrowed an infra red temp probe, and on a 14 degC ambient temperature day, the aluminium frame was 24 deg or so, the diffuser panel 18degC, and the driver 45degC. Hmmm again.

    Then I found some LED mounting frames for $20! At 3m of framing per panel (1200x300mm), Aluminium section would cost that, so happily bought em, and fitted the first one up today. Looks neat.

    There is no real provision for mounting the driver, it seems it is just lain on top of the diffuser panel. The temporary ones I put up, I used some ceiling suspension T bar to screw the drivers to. Plenty of airflow. I could screw the drivers to the outside of the new frames, at the end. But a bit untidy. ( note to self, it's a shed!). I am thinking it would be an idea to run the low voltage cable, up through the mezzanine floor, and mount the drivers up near the 240V sockets, out of sight and spatter.


    The problem is the low voltage lead. I say low voltage but the driver number implies 36V, Clipsal PH36V100CC01
    I put a voltmeter on the output today, 45V.
    It would require a longer low voltage lead, but I can't identify the plug. It is a twist lock bayonet. Cant find anything of a wide ranging search of the we, that looks like it. The plan going the lead to the driver looks like an ordinary mother border header plug, so that is not a problem. I called Clipsal this arvo, but they couldn't provide any info, but are supposed to be getting back to me.
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