Thread: Shed build

Is that going to be your only doorway? What do you plan on making in there, nothing to large if the doorway is only a metre wide.
Kryn

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Is that going to be your only doorway? What do you plan on making in there, nothing to large if the doorway is only a metre wide.
Kryn

You just need a decent run up [emoji856]


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Originally Posted by dazzler

You just need a decent run up [emoji856]


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Or a plasma cutter

Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Is that going to be your only doorway? What do you plan on making in there, nothing to large if the doorway is only a metre wide.
Kryn

I'll have to build an annex!

Rain the last 2 days, it really gets in the way; not inclined to power up the 3 phase welder on a wet pad...


Did get the mounting holes for the bashing table top countersunk a couple of days ago, and the first coat of grey paint, plus fabricated the foot plates. The adjustable feet still haven't arrived.

Picked up the RHS for the rafters; decided against using C-channel (C20019) and sourced RHS 150x50x2mm, which being boxed provides equivalent loading to the larger C-channel, and 3:1 ratio is a good thing for this purpose according to my structural engineer mate . The 8 x 2800 nominal lengths worked out well, only 2 600mm offcuts out of the 9m lengths; I had thought the stock length was 8m which would have meant paying for about $280 of offcut lengths ( only getting two 2800 out of each of x4 8m lengths).
The RHS will also give c. 50mm or so extra clearance under the apex, so will raise the planned gantry mounting that bit more and give that bit more headroom on the mezzanine.
While C channel has the advantage of providing a channel to run electrical and such up, it is no biggie screwing some P-clips to 2mm walled RHS where necessary.
Changing form 200 to 150 has also meant the end plates are bigger than they need to be, as the column holes were predrilled before the columns went up. On the positive side, this will give that bit more stiffing to the column top once the end plates are welded to the columns,

It does cause a slight complication with the end plates agains the columns, in terms of the the upper mounting bolt to the column can not be pushed through from what would have been the open C-channel side. One option would be to push the bolt through the end plate before welding the end plate to the rafter end, that could waggle around and be fitted into the column hole ok, providing each rafter was put up separately then bolted together at their apexes. But a revision is to weld the 2 rafters to a single end plate at their apex ends, to form a truss, so I'll tap the outer end plate hole an screw in the upper column to rafter end plate bolt from the outside.

Thinking to weld the 2 rafters into a truss while on the ground, first thoughts were to use some of the Structaflor offcuts to create a 30 degree template jig, like a section through a truncated cone (frustum); what is the term for a truncated triangle?. Then lay the pair of rafters out against the jig and set the outer width at the feet etc. Then I though why not use the end wall to clamp the same Structaflor plate to, lay the rafters on the angles sides of the Strucflor jig, easy to check the exact angle with the digital spirit level, AND can but the outer foot plates to the inside of the columns, i.e the exact fit up width. That's the plan for today/tomorrow.

After cold and rainy the last 2 days, it is supposed to be 41 degC or so today/tomorrow, so will see how much gets done. I have 2 quotes coming for all etc purlins, secondary girts, roof and wall cladding, ridge capping and gutters, and hope to get that delivered by the weekend, so may have a clad shed by the end of next week, maybe.

I have also decided to use 40x40x2 for the secondary girts. I can fix it along the primary girts ( 65x35x3) which are flush with the outer column faces, so the support for the walling won't have much bow flexibility. I'll drill access plug holes in the outer facing side and then TEC screw the inner wall to the primary girts.
The purpose of the secondary girt is to step off the cladding far enough to enclose the column footplates on the pad, rather than notch the cladding around and over the footplates and sealing... The extra space becomes available for extra insulation too.
I couldn't get 1mm wall 40x40 which would have been strong enough, as the Topspan purlin is 1.0 BMT. I would have got Topspan for the secondary girts, but even the Topspan40 was just wide enough (60mm) that mounting to the 65mm primary girts would have been a little tricky.

Used the end wall as a clamping table, and located 2 bits of RHS at 30.0 degrees, and sat the rafter RHS on that. Cut a bit of the offcuts rafter material to check and adjust the angle setup of the chop saw.
Marked up the length of rafter for the second angle cut, and after the first seemed ok, cut the second and checked the gap at the top, 4 mm too small for the 16mm plate, so had to take 1 to 2mm from each end of each rafter. The woodworking Marples bevel I have was a bit fussy for this kind of thing (checking the rafter to column...), so cut a bit of Structaflor offcuts on the Kapex at 30 degrees and this was much more robust. Used sanding flap disc on the angle grinder and worked out a felt tip line, easy and progressive.
The weight of course bears out and down on loosely positioned end plates against the inside column faces. The fit up turned out quite good.

The apex plates are 100x16mm. This seems like overkill I know, but the initial design was 2 separate 75x8mm plates abutting, as the rafters were to be bolted together, and I couldn't be bothered re-doing the calculations and the drawing.
These plates for the 2 middle rafter pairs will be cross drilled for later suspending a mounting to an I beam for the gantry.

The outer end plates against the columns are not in a position to weld unfortunately, due to the position of the girts plates, and I can't raise the jig higher due the restriction of the mezzanine beam. I could perhaps move the jig to the outside of the same wall, but this would be outside the columns too so no footplate location, plus lugging the welded result around the outside, or through the wall would be. bit awkward. So I might turn it upside down tomorrow, with the apex against the floor, now that I know all fits well, that should get the ends of the rafters in a position where the end plates can be positioned and tacked in place.

Finished welding the footplates to the bashing table and bolted the top on this morning. Its first job was marking out the end plates for the rafters. Nice to have something solid to centre punch on. I got a phone call to say the adjustable feet had arrived, so will pick those up in the next day or so.

Drilled and tapped the rafter endplates, and drilled the centre apex plate holes (17mm). I need to get my big Dawn drill press vice back.

Reversed the jig on the end wall, but not as effective as the right way up; gravity works against the outer endplate fit up, and more importantly, now the apex plate can't be centred as it buts against the girt.

42 degrees today, gave up and went inside.

You have done a fair bit of welding on the shed now, how much wire and bottles have you gotten through?

Frame looks solid, should keep those Zombies out

Bottle is E2 (4.2 cu.m), started about 3/4 full ( 200+ x100kPa) now down to 50 x 100kPa.
Being outside and in the foothills, there is frequent breezes/wind, so have been running 20-25 L/min

15Kg spool of 0.8mm was probably about a finger width shy of full at the start, now about 1/4-1/3 maybe.
I got the gas bottle and several spools of wire for zip.

zombies are a real problem where I am, and the attack koalas are bad during the night too.

I re-flipped the rafter jig this morning. Both rafters sitting at 30.0 degrees, and to the mm at the apex; more adjustment pfaffing around than one might think, especially by oneself. But the jig at least now feels reproducible.

The object of the exercise today, was to finalise the position of the 100x16 apex plate. This is cross drilled for two M16 bolts, and will be sandwiched by 2 75x8 bars welded to the I beam of the gantry.
The lower hole in the apex plate is 2 diameters from the bottom end.
The upper hole is 2 diameters above the lower.
The upper hole needs to be sitting at a height with respect to the underside of the rafter so that
1. an M16x50 bolt can be fitted with the I beam mounting bars in place
2. the upper mounting bolt position allows the gantry I beam legs to fit with 2 bolt diameters below the bottom of the rafter join
3. no lower than necessary as this reduces headroom between the gantry and the overhang on the mezzanine

I think I am happy, and will recheck in the morning. Another 42 degree day today.

Next is to weld the apex together, then move the welded pair down out of the jig to weld the endplates.

With 42C on tap you hardly need a welder, just use a magnifying glass!

another 40 degC day - 3 in a row. Picked up the feet for the bashing table, tapped the mounting plates for M20. Threads are stainless, swivel feet 100mm diameter nylon with anti-slip pads. Just needs a final coat of paint.

The rafter jig requires 2 positions. The first full against the face of end girts allows the apex plate to be tacked in place. Then the tacked rafter pair plus apex plate, needs to move forward 50mm, in order to tack the outer end plates in the correct orientation. A bit of angle iron clamped to the 30degree component of the jig dealt with the first, another bit of angle iron clamped to the columns, gave a wider end stop for the end plates. A short length of flat bar was bolted to the end plates to set the exact height of the end plates wrt the underside of the rafter end (thereby setting the precise rafter height wrt to the mounting holes). The apex tacked assembly, could then be unclamped and easily slid forward 50mm, packed from behind and reclaimed for tacking the end plates.

Of course just as I had done the first 3 tacks the plastic side clamp on 3M welding Helmut decided to break; grrrr, and a minute later the lens started flashing to indicate the battery was in death mode. grrrr. Tacked it up holding the Helmut, as I wanted to see one up at least, and test the fit up. It was an easy lift, each rafter is c. 17 kg, and the 100x16 apex plate is c. 4kg, so just on 40kg in total.

The bottom mount bolts were pushed through and nuts fitted, then the assembly (i.e. open truss) was simply swung up, rotating around the lower bolt, and the top mounting bolts screwed in - the outer end plates are tapped for M10. Piece of baklava. One person can do the whole lift and fit. The fit was excellent, the truss was a friction fit and sat there firmly with just the lower bolts in position.

It will come down to be fully welded of course.

Picked up the RHS (40x40x1.6mm) for the secondary girts this morning, so even without the Helmut, will have something to go on with tomorrow.

Fitted a M6 bolt into the broken Speedglass helmut and a spring clamp on the other side, in order to keep at it. Got another truss jigged, welded and up each of the last 3 days. The gas bottle is almost empty. Did order a new head harness pivot mechanism for the Helmut ($25), a new head harness is $75 ( the had these in stock of course), and picked up some new batteries.

The woven pads are very good for removing the gal, the picture shows how good, you can see the edge half way through the galv thickness, so can remove the galv without removing any base material. Years ago we used to use Hydrochloric acid.

Drew up the rafter, purlin, secondary girt, cladding and gutter accurately this morning in order to get a calculated length for the corrugated roof sheets. Then mocked up the elements in situ, in order to cross check quasi reality against the plan, and with fall into the gutter allowed for. Nothing like tangible 3D. Went and ordered the roof and wall cladding, purlins, flashing and gutters. To be delivered Thursday. So expecting a busy few day; noting rain expected Friday, Saturday, Sunday. Summer never used to be like this.

Started on the secondary girts ( 40x40x1.6 RHS). Drilling the access holes in the front face, for screwing the tek screws into the back face. The issue is positioning the holes so that they do not end up where the every second crest screws will be once the wall cladding is affixed. Climbed up on the roof of the small workshop I built in the courtyard a couple of years ago and marked out a story stick, as this was the only corrugated nearby. I did initially try a step drill in a cordless, but with the 1.6mm wall RHS, its a bit grabby, so resorted to Harvey. A work in progress.