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Thread: Shed build

  1. #61
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    Checked the roof trusses for uniformity of height with a string line, and a bit of fettling that last couple of millimetres. Checked and tweaked the rafter face verticality's and the horizontal span between trusses, and clamped some 40x40 RHS across the truss bays as a temporary measure.

    My Fein cordless stopped dead today, and my Metabo die grinder seized with a carbide burr in the collet. Any one have any tricks to release a sized collet?
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  3. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by node105 View Post
    Any one have any tricks to release a sized collet?
    A sledge hammer? Let me know when you find a solution that does not the use of a stick of dynamite!

  4. #63
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    May 2011
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    The usual trick is put the shaft in till it hits bottom, then pull it out about 2-3 mm. If it happens to me, cos I forgot and needed the extra MM, I take the collet nut off, if possible, failing that get the claw section of a hammer and pull up a mm or so under the cutter, that should be enough to release the grip on the collet.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #64
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    Default The cladding has landed

    Thanks Kryn: yes, same as router bits; forgot (dohhh). I'll try as you suggest tomorrow when I have help to hold on to it.

    The Fein drill problem may be the trigger; no light. Have had a couple of starts, then full stop and no light.

    Cladding etc. arrived today, a extra large truck WITH a crane; what joy, no manual unloading ( like all the RHS)
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  6. #65
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    Everyone gets a senior moment every now and then, some a lot more often.
    I've a drill that throws the reversing switch at least once a year, and it was a good brand too.
    Now that's my kinda truck. I hate Mexican Politicians (Manuel Labor)
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Everyone gets a senior moment every now and then, some a lot more often.

    Kryn
    And as one gets progressively more senior, there seems to be more moments (

  8. #67
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    Nov 2011
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    Adelaide
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    Default Purlins up

    Topspan61 BMT 1.0 x7.4m purlins all up today despite the rain. Spaced 750 between purlins, 200 from apex, 400mm from gutter end. Cut appropriate length spacers to get quick consistent locations without having to measure all the time.

    Despite being February and 40 plus last week, today was cold and raining.

    Clamped a bit of timber along the ridgeline to act as an end stop, and another at the top of the columns to simulate the wall outer plane and positioned the first roof sheet to achieve a nominal 40mm projection over the gutter. Also clamped a couple of secondary girts in place, and placed a wall sheet against them to check the roof edge overhang, and clearance. All good.

    I had thought a while ago of using a pair of Kreg pocket hole clamps I have, to clamp the sheets to the purlins, and I have to say this worked a treat. Just holding the sheets and trying to position at the same time as stopping them sliding down is something of a pain; I remember the last roof I did 30 years ago. The alternate would have been to clamp a bit of timber to act as a stop on the gutter end, but that can be tricky too, as the sheet is inlined to bow. I'll take a couple of pics tomorrow of the clamps specifically... Squared up the edges of the first sheet to the rafter, and checked the second sheet against the rafter. 5 screws per purlin per sheet, 4 purlins per side, 20 screws per sheet x 20 roof sheets; 400 screws.

    It made it much, much easier to be able to stand on the mezzanine; which again was the purpose of putting up the mezzanines before the roof.
    The open bay of course will be more of a challenge. Raising the platform of the Zippy Skaf to the top of the extension is one option, and suitably clamped to the mezzanine beams, albeit not a recommended one.
    The ladder (German made Waku) will extend far enough I think just in normal configuration, and is incredibly stable.
    Another option is to brace one leg of the ladder against the wall, with the other extended and laying over the purlins (or additional RHS brace) and suitably tied down.
    Will explore the options tomorrow. Gone are the days of feeling comfortable walking across a corrugated roof. As it is, standing against the edge of the sheet, we can just reach the furthest corrugation, but it would be preferable to be a bit more 'square on' from above, rather than at arms length. Might try pre drilling the holes in the sheet too.

    Had a go at the seized Metabo chuck, no joy yet.

    Another pic of the truck, side on.
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  9. #68
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    no insulation under the roof?
    vapourforge.com

  10. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusel View Post
    no insulation under the roof?
    Will use Foilboard, place against the underside of the purlins, works better with air gap above. Very easy to install and very effective.

  11. #70
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    Nov 2011
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    Default One side of the roof

    A long day. RAIN AGAIN. One side (bar end sheet) up.

    Kreg pocket hole clamps pictured.
    Resorted to pre drilling the sheets on the ground - much better fixing once up.

    Made a walk board for the open centre bay; so-so. Tried the ladder up the wall and laying on the purlins to the apex, so-so
    Most comfortable with zippyskaf and small ladder on top of that.

    With the span (2.4m) and sharp edged slightly flexible top hat purlins, climbing out onto the outside (30 degree) slope is awkward at best. So fixing done at arms length generally. Much different comfort factor ( i.e. less) than 'traditional' timber purlined structure. Height not so much of an issue, I once helped do a owner-builder steel trussed (angle iron) roof decades ago with c. 30 foot walls on the front face, but that was a long time ago
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  12. #71
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    Default More rain, more roof

    Rain again overnight, and double rainbow in the morning. Clamps left on the mezzanine left a pattern; play spot the kangaroo.

    Started on the right side roof cladding, in a semblance of sunshine; transient followed by more rain, which became the pattern for the day.
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  13. #72
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    ... scaffold came into its own doing the middle bay, a lot more stable with the side supports deployed.

    Starting to look good from the inside, and the volume of the shed is getting defined.
    Set up a length of aluminium angle along the wall margin, stepped off to catch the sheets at the required gutter overhang. This really made things much easier; pass up the sheet, load it onto the roof through the rafter/purlin aperture, slide it down until the edge stop, sideways to get the cover, clamp, screw it down. Repeat.

    Got the right side finished, again except for the end sheet, will have to set up the ladder outside and do the last sheet on both sides.
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  14. #73
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    Looking good, another cupla days and it'll be finished What are you going to do then?? Will we be invited to the shed opening party?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  15. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Looking good, another cupla days and it'll be finished What are you going to do then?? Will we be invited to the shed opening party?
    Kryn
    should be all done today after tomorrow ;-) if you're in town, your invited !

  16. #75
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    Adelaide
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    A few pics of the gutter stop. A bit of RHS outboard of 2 columns, and a bit of spare aluminium angle clamped on top, and stepped out far enough to give a hard stop parallel to the wall line and at the required offset for the roof sheet edge overlap onto the gutter.

    Checking the square of the last sheet with a plumb bob this morning, apex to wall within 2 mm or so. Put a laser on the corrugations as well from underneath, and all looked good.

    Also put a plumb bob against the inside face of the truss apex, dropping to the mezzanine beam which spans the end wall. A tad out, so after some consideration of what may or may not happen to the roof, positioned some clamps to act as stops, secured some harnesses between the top 2 purlin pairs, and released the tee screws holding the purlins to the rafters/truss, also eased off the 2 bolts at the column ends. Applied a bit of tweaking, and re-fixed.
    So much for the rafter face verticality, should have used the plumb bob from the start, and the end wall beam is hard reference.
    Beam 75mm, rafter RHS 150x50mm, so 50mm wide rafter, centred over a 75 mm wide beam, should give 62.5mm from the outer beam face. Picture shows the result near enough (63.5). Happy camper.
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