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Thread: Shed build

  1. #76
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    Put up the first 2 secondary girts as a test, and decided on spacing for the access holes for the fixing Teks; these needed to fall under a crest that was not going to be a crest that was meant to be used for screwing the sheet to the secondary girt. Eventually decided on 2 foot interval (corrugated is still imperial at 3" waveform), with appropriate adjustment for the starting corner offset and first sheet screw crest (wrt corner flashing...) ; bit of a jig saw.

    Cut the remaining RHS lengths for the secondary girts for the side walls, drilled, and painted 4 sides. Rollers are a wonderful thing.
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  3. #77
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    Default secondary girts

    Finished grinding off the welds on the top row of girts to columns, in order to let the secondary girts sit flat. And also painted the top girts, and columns tops. Up and down, up and down....

    Started putting on the secondary girts. The tek screws have to go through 1.6mm, then into the 3mm girt wall. Drill seemed to be coping, then I had a look down the inside, and could see the screws were not seated by about 3-4mm. Hmmm.

    Tried manually screwing them in with a 6pt long socket, but due to angular variations, the socket would lock into the side of the access holes. The Tek screw driver has a fairly shallow fit to start with and in order to get to the back of the 40mm tubing it is on an extension as well, so wobbly, and basically goes in anywhere within a few mm, and whatever angle it chooses. I did go and Get a longer bit driver early this morning, but not the right size!

    Pre-drilling does not help much, might have to drill larger access holes.

    Had to resort to a very old corded Makita drill, it drives em in, but just about breaks the wrist when they seat. No clutch of course, and trigger is either on or off; great fun up a ladder.

    Lugged the 34 sheets of 3m corrugated for the walls around to the back; c. 45m each way, 17 trips, that's c. 1.5km!

    Note to self: get a new pair of work shoes; even the cats give them a wide berth and a scared look going out the door past said footwear.
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  4. #78
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    Looking very good, watch out that SWMBO doesn't decide to sell up, and all that work gone to waste.
    What you need for the mezzanine, is a door on top, with a bar hanging over the end, so that stuff can be put up there with out having to clear a path inside to get it up there. Like the American old time barns.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Looking very good, watch out that SWMBO doesn't decide to sell up, and all that work gone to waste.
    What you need for the mezzanine, is a door on top, with a bar hanging over the end, so that stuff can be put up there with out having to clear a path inside to get it up there. Like the American old time barns.
    Kryn
    Yes. I had already contemplated that! ( the gantry, not the moving on). Like barns use to hoist hay bales into the loft. English barns use it too.

    I would have to buy a long I beam, as it is, a mate is donating a 3m length of I beam leftover from his gantry install; that will be long enough to span the middle bay.

  6. #80
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    Default first wall cladding up

    Went and got the correct size longer bit driver this am, and this avoided the wobbles, and tried the Fein drill which out of the blue started working again; all day. Finished the right side secondary girts, and decided to continue drilling a 4mm pilot through to the back face of the secondary girt (on Harvey and Dawn), then clamped the secondary girt in place levelled to 0.0, and drilled 4.5mm pilot holes through the primary girt.

    The Fein would still not drive the Tek screws to seated. I stepped up the through pilot hole to 5.0 mm, using a Cobalt drill bit made drilling a bit easier and quicker. But the screw still would not seat. Thought to try the Metabo again, and on slow AND impact setting, a result. No clutch, but he trigger is very responsive, a quick squeeze and half a turn to a turn or so, and rotations stops. So I could feed it in, and snug up almost progressively once it was getting close. By contrast the old Makita armature was so heavy it just kept turning full bore after trigger off; hard on the thumb.

    Had help later in the afternoon, and put the right side wall sheeting up. Sat the first sheet on two yellow packers, minor positional adjustment, check with the 2m spirit level against the sheet edge, and the digital spirit level against that; 90.0 degrees. Clamped again with the super useful Kreg pocket hole clamps. And screwed the middle girt row against a string line.

    Each sheet on appropriate packers, easy 90.0 degrees, clamp and screw. The outer margins of the pad ( c. 300mm) were given a slight gradient, so a bit of minor variation in packers. Got the 9 sheets done, will probably vertically cut the 10th rather than overlap half a sheet.

    After quitting for the day, I broke out the laser around dusk and did the bottom and top rows of screws; better than a string line no sag (no matter how tight its pulled).

    Photos of just the first row fixed.
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  7. #81
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    Thanks for the update, looking real good, won't be long and it'll be finished. Do you know what the load capacity of the I beam running off the trusses will be???
    What sort of lifting arrangement will you be using, electric or chain? What do you propose to lift up there?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  8. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Thanks for the update, looking real good, won't be long and it'll be finished. Do you know what the load capacity of the I beam running off the trusses will be???
    What sort of lifting arrangement will you be using, electric or chain? What do you propose to lift up there?
    Kryn

    I-beam is 150mm depth. I have an old chain block and tackle. It is not so much lifting up to the mezzanine, but more being able to lift a motor on/off an engine stand, lift the motor unit from the cold saw ( a recent requirement), machinery bits... on the ground. Nothing super heavy, but all those c. 50-200 kg bits that are awkward.

  9. #83
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    Victoria Australia
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    As someone who has experience with large and small steel framed buildings, commercial and industrial, your standards of workmanship and tolerances are very impressive

  10. #84
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    Default second side wall

    thanks very much chris0375


    Yesterday:
    finished the secondary girts for the second side wall, with etc aid od Harvey and Dawn and the gang. Pic shows the old neolithic Makita with the others, note the short handle, weighs more than the Metabolism hammer drill.
    Had help to put up the wall sheets, fixing just the centre girt initially; the effect of which can be seen by the wavy top of the sheets. Packers again to trim the sheet level/vertical, then Kreg clamps. The other small advantage of the packers is once removed, the sheet bottom can 'swing' inwards flat against the bottom girt; no getting caught out by the bottom of the sheet hard against the concrete and. arm too low when it has been forgotten to 'knee' the bottom of the sheet in before fixing.
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  11. #85
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    Got up at sparrow fart this morning to put the laser against the side wall, and mark the screw locations for the top and bottom girts. Autumn morning as evidenced by the exhaled vapour in front of the camera lens.
    The laser was still visible by the time I got to the top. The bit of tape wrapped around each end sheet overlies the secondary girt beneath; easy to line the laser height against. The bottom was quite clear, but a bit of operator camera shake from the cold it seems. Had to fix the laser to a bit of RHS clamped to the fence for the top girt row. One of those crank up tripods would be nice.

    Fixed the top and bottom rows, and looks ok. One trick seems to be come back later and retighten the screws with the clutch setting on the drill. If the chuck clutch is used when putting in the screws, many will not get close, either that or some go too far. But driving them in manually, then coming back, I think there must be a bit of heat from the friction affecting things, because it is obvious that clutch setting 18 for example has no effect immediately after drilling, but 20 minutes later, may move it in noticeably. Going back over all the screws at the same clutch setting gave a quite consistent flatness.

    First job for the now shed-with-two-walls was to prep the secondary girts for the end walls.
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  12. #86
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    its a damm fine looking shed, and its nice seeing screw lined up, but i'm a little ocd.

    I do have to ask how you are going to water proof the bottom of the sheets, as it looks like it'll pool and possibility run back into the shed.

  13. #87
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    Nice work, pity the shed builders aren't so particular about the quality of their work. A few years ago I helped a friend put up a 20 m long shed about 3.5 m high. We ran a string line sat on top of a few screws to prevent sag and used a 4WD with a pallet on the roll bars to fit the screws on the top and next rail down. Saved working off a ladder.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryn23 View Post
    its a damm fine looking shed, and its nice seeing screw lined up, but i'm a little ocd.

    I do have to ask how you are going to water proof the bottom of the sheets, as it looks like it'll pool and possibility run back into the shed.
    the gap is at most 3mm

    The perimeter 300mm or so was given a slight gradient by the concreters, So water rolls away to the outside; tried a test only a day or 2 ago. It is however not much of a gradient. I would have far preferred a 20mm step.
    The alternate plan all along was to seal it from the inside, tedious but doable. I have also thought about brushable sealant they use to slather over bathroom floors and walls, pre final surface treatment. It will not have to look pretty from the inside, as the walls will be lined. The inner surface of the lining (white melamine) will be flush with the inner face of the columns; so that is 75 mm column + 40mm secondary girt = 115mm to the inside face of the cladding; plenty of width to brush enough sealant within.

    Another idea that occurred to me would be to use self levelling concrete on the inside, just enough to close the gap. I might put a level on the floor margins today, just to see how much edge slope there is.

    I also plan to place plastic drainage channel all around the outside perimeter, so the self levelling concrete could be bartered on the outside against that too, to effectively bury the sheet edge both side. Probably a bit fussy though. and the outside margin would then be a bit higher than the inside.

  15. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Nice work, pity the shed builders aren't so particular about the quality of their work. A few years ago I helped a friend put up a 20 m long shed about 3.5 m high. We ran a string line sat on top of a few screws to prevent sag and used a 4WD with a pallet on the roll bars to fit the screws on the top and next rail down. Saved working off a ladder.
    Kryn
    Eventually I clamped the still un-sheeted end of the string-line, closer to the next panel, fixing the string to the centre of the secondary girt. Small block of wood with a screw in it at the appropriate distance from the bottom edge, the secondary girts being level. Repositioned the screw to allow for the string to lie along the line of the top of the threads. Leave one proud periodically.

    Is a pain up a ladder, especially on uneven ground.
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  16. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by node105 View Post
    the gap is at most 3mm

    The perimeter 300mm or so was given a slight gradient by the concreters, So water rolls away to the outside; tried a test only a day or 2 ago. It is however not much of a gradient. I would have far preferred a 20mm step.
    The alternate plan all along was to seal it from the inside, tedious but doable. I have also thought about brushable sealant they use to slather over bathroom floors and walls, pre final surface treatment. It will not have to look pretty from the inside, as the walls will be lined. The inner surface of the lining (white melamine) will be flush with the inner face of the columns; so that is 75 mm column + 40mm secondary girt = 115mm to the inside face of the cladding; plenty of width to brush enough sealant within.

    Another idea that occurred to me would be to use self levelling concrete on the inside, just enough to close the gap. I might put a level on the floor margins today, just to see how much edge slope there is.

    I also plan to place plastic drainage channel all around the outside perimeter, so the self levelling concrete could be bartered on the outside against that too, to effectively bury the sheet edge both side. Probably a bit fussy though. and the outside margin would then be a bit higher than the inside.
    At least you have a plan,

    I didn't pick up on it until you did the second side, a bit of custom rolled flashing around the base, with a 40mm rise, from the concrete edge (i'd would have a 20-40mm return down the concrete edge as well) to the steel first would of worked really well.

    you could still do it, but it would involve ordering in the flashing, then taking of the sheets and trimming the bottom of the sheet to allow for the 40mm rise.

    I'm just concerned about the sheeting corroding under those conditions.

    Maybe a waterproof membrane as Sikaflex, could be used around the outside, (Im not sure on the spec of the Sika, there is so many)

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