Thread: New shed build.

Plenty of space for the Cruiser under the awning . . .

Use the full shed for the workshop

To add to what Pat said, get a caravan and live in that. The reason, wood dust goes everywhere, I had a friend who lived in a shed while building his house, nearly ended up divorced!!! No matter how well it's sealed it'll get in there, unless it's positively pressurised.
Kryn

Hi Kryn

Not planning to do much woodworking in the shed until the house is well underway, most of the woodworking will involve building the workshop and setting it up for the future. I'm a fussy bugger with workshop setups, I'm looking forward to the build. Open to suggestions from anyone on how to line the shed effectively though.

Graham

My shed build is underway and I'll be lining it with 17mm white melamine finish, so I'll have plenty of space to support cabinets and tools while hopefully cutting down on the noise that SWMBO hates, especially when the router or sander's going. Also planning on putting rockwool or similar in the walls for the same reason.
Kryn

Rockwool is very $$$$$$$$$, use acoustic insulation, much cheaper
https://www.bradfordinsulation.com.a...ls/soundscreen

Hi there,

I think I am in for a lot of lining material to line the walls in this shed. I need to finish off the downspouts and drainage on the shed and get the water tank in place which comes in about 3 weeks.Afterwards it's time to move my 20' container which I will either get relocated or do it with some full round logs and the tractor.

Easter weekend will be spent doing some of this work. It's good to be getting on with it.

Looking good Graham. Out of curiosity if you're going off grid, obviously with solar, what's your research into power requirements for your machines. My limited understanding is solar will power them easy once going, but they struggle big time to start, hence the need for a large inverter or some form of parallel generator to kick them into action

Hi Lignum

I can cover off my loads by installing inverters in parallel and/or using a pass through function on the inverter. This way once the house is built and connected to the grid I can supply power to the shed from the house which can be used to deal with the larger loads. When those loads are not present the shed can then revert to an offgrid state.

Current plans are to do a 24V installation with around 400AH of battery capacity to meet the initial needs of the project. I have a 6.5kva generator to supply power while I am setting it all up.

Regards
Graham

Hello All,

I know this question has been asked 5000 times before and I have undertaken a search of the forum first. I am interested in suggestions on how best to line this particular construction. I could frame out between the portals in 75x30 and then attach the sheets across the front of the portals. This seems most logical at this point in time.

My cabling would be run at the second row of girts just under the window height so that the power points could come out at the right height once benchwork is added. The wall cavity will be insulated.


20180318_115545.jpg

Your shed looks great. I will be following this closely because i also need to find out about additional insulation.

I went with 15mm plywood sheets (2700x1200) attached directly to the battens. I have used Reflecta-Guard by Green Insulation and was considering wool/batts as well, but the Reflecta-Guard + 15mm ply seems to be handling the heat nicely.
My biggest problem areas are the roller doors & window...

Originally Posted by Graham99

Hello All,

I know this question has been asked 5000 times before and I have undertaken a search of the forum first. I am interested in suggestions on how best to line this particular construction. I could frame out between the portals in 75x30 and then attach the sheets across the front of the portals. This seems most logical at this point in time.

My cabling would be run at the second row of girts just under the window height so that the power points could come out at the right height once benchwork is added. The wall cavity will be insulated.

The most useful lining is ply, the cheapest is gyprock. If you are going to cover the sides of your shed with cupboards then you might as well go for teh cheapest but if you want to hand things off the walls then the ply is easier. If you do any hot metal work consider lining that part of your shed in metal. Because my shed is small I used miniorb for the metal work end of my shed , but even corro or roofing material will do. It's no where near as noisy as you think as the ridges scatter the sound rather than reflecting it back at you.

Unless you install dozens of GPOs around the walls you won't really know where you will need them until you have worked for some time your shed.
I assume you will line the walls at least to the third third girt? If so. I would run the wiring around on top of the third girt and use drop downs conduits to GPOs to wherever you need them.

That way your cabling is all outside the lining and can be easily added to or modified. If it's inside wiring and you want to add a GPO you will have to remove the lining. My shed is so low my wiring runs mainly around at the junction of the wall and the roof.

Also I would add a wiring run underneath the roof in the middle of the shed so you can add drop down GPOs. An alternative is to install a couple of SS flying foxes that you can suspend cables and Sockets from. We have 3 such flying foxes with cables coming in from each end in the Men's Shed I attend plus 3 suspended 3P sockets and they really do keep the floor clear of cables.

Hi there,

Great suggestion BobL on the power routing as it does give flexibility. My other option is to run a cable trunk around at a certain height and affix my power points to the front of it. Agree regarding the pendant power points as they would be great for keeping leads out of the way when using tools.

As far as what goes where, I have created a CAD drawing to check my positions. The right hand window will be part of a bathroom, the left hand side and along the wall to the left will be benchwork. The right hand side wall will be cupboards. I don't like shelves as they are dust magnets. I'm a bit of a 5S freak so this will be laid out well.

i do want to insulate to the very top, so need to see if I need to line as well.

graham

Originally Posted by Graham99

Hi there,

Great suggestion BobL on the power routing as it does give flexibility. My other option is to run a cable trunk around at a certain height and affix my power points to the front of it.

Sure but not too low as that means you cannot push cupboards right up against the walls. if you run a cable trunk around the walls do it above the tallest cupboard height.

Agree regarding the pendant power points as they would be great for keeping leads out of the way when using tools.

I don't have pendants but I have 8 double GPOs on a roof truss running down the middle of my shed - these GPOs are gold and are ether most heavily used.

As far as what goes where, I have created a CAD drawing to check my positions. The right hand window will be part of a bathroom, the left hand side and along the wall to the left will be benchwork. The right hand side wall will be cupboards. I don't like shelves as they are dust magnets. I'm a bit of a 5S freak so this will be laid out well.

I'm similar but my setup changed somewhat over 10 years as I got more into MW.

i do want to insulate to the very top, so need to see if I need to line as well.

Definitely insulate to the top - maybe line in something cheaper above two 3rd girt?

This is the mens shed lined in painted ply up to the first RSJ.
IMG_5812.jpg