Thread: Shed flooring

Depending on the slop, it still might be advise able to cut and fill the proposed area, before putting up the floor for the shed. You'll only pay about $ 90 p/h for a bob cat, they can get a lot achieved in just a few hours. I've just done my sub floor in Dura gal RHS for the deck, and will do the same for my shed that'll be 10 x 6mts. Having the area levelled will reduce the exposure the under side of the boards.
Google Dura gal flooring systems that well give you some info on how to build your floor, spacing etc. cheers Jason

i will look into the Duragal. I guess i figured if it was on stirrups, off the ground it would help weather proofing it. The earthworks side of things, i am not worried about. i am happy to make it flat, but i just figured its not really an issue if have its of fthe ground.
The main reason i don't want to do concrete, is i want to avoid the hassle of getting a concrete pump in for a small load of concrete

Originally Posted by inferno6688

i will look into the Duragal. I guess i figured if it was on stirrups, off the ground it would help weather proofing it. The earthworks side of things, i am not worried about. i am happy to make it flat, but i just figured its not really an issue if have its of fthe ground.
The main reason i don't want to do concrete, is i want to avoid the hassle of getting a concrete pump in for a small load of concrete

You are right about the cost of the concrete pump for a quantity of probably around 2 m3; it would be a bit prohibitive.

As Jason says, RHS would make excellent bearers, and you wouldn't need any joists if you spaced them appropriately. I would still level the surface; makes it easier in the long run. Yellow tongue structafloor is good stuff and will last for many years; and providing you get the RHS bearers level, you will have a good floor to work on.

Best of luck and look forward to seeing your WIP pics

Originally Posted by inferno6688

Hi guys,

I am currently planning my new shed. It will be around 6x3m tin shed (maybe Stratco). Still researching which supplier. I have a sloped backyard (sloping up hill), and very difficult access to the back, so i am thinking of going with a timber floor rather than concrete slab. Issues i have with a concrete slab is more earthworks to cut/fill a level platform, and I would need to a get concrete pump in to get the cocnrete in. Will be a largish line pump as it needs to go about 25m and up hill!

How much slope are you talking about?

For my 6 x 4m shed I had a 100 mm concrete floor installed. With no driveway and just a narrow footpath side access the closest access point for a concrete truck was 40 m from the shed and the two guys just barrowed the stuff in in very short order. I also had to install a 64 block limestone retaining wall with all blocks carried those 40 m using a sack trolley. I really didn't have any option, the termites are terrors in our area.

If you are in an area where it gets cold and/or wet then I would suggest for personal comfort and additional protection of the floor that an insulating vapour barrier like Aircell retroshield, insulbreak 65 or a similar product be installed.

I have used LVL's (laminated veneer lumber) previously for a house extension. They are excellent for bearers and joists in that they are strong, light weight, straight and cost effective. If you have never seen lvl it looks like thick plywood. I was using 120 x 42 mm joists 10m long and lifted them myself, try that with hardwood!

I'm with BobL, you're still going to need conc' for your stumps so how're you going to get that in?
If your crew is reluctant to use barrows I'd be looking for another crew.

I know concrete is ideal. My back yard it tiered with levels. so it would be up 3 steps, then another 8 steps, then another 2 levels each of 2 steps. there is are fair climb to get to the back, hence i am not keen on wheel barrowing 3m3 of concrete. would probably have to pay waiting time on the agi too!

the concrete for the stumps i will probably just use hand mix. Atleast no pressure with agi's waiting etc.

I will look into LVL's. they are great strong and straight bearers!

I am still worried about using the yellow tongue particle board on the floor. with the underside essentially exposed how that will hold up in the weather.

thanks guys, keep the ideas rolling

Originally Posted by inferno6688

I know concrete is ideal. My back yard it tiered with levels. so it would be up 3 steps, then another 8 steps, then another 2 levels each of 2 steps. there is are fair climb to get to the back, hence i am not keen on wheel barrowing 3m3 of concrete. would probably have to pay waiting time on the agi too!

OK I agree 15 steps is too many.

the concrete for the stumps i will probably just use hand mix. Atleast no pressure with agi's waiting etc.

And it gives you a good work out while doing it!

I am still worried about using the yellow tongue particle board on the floor. with the underside essentially exposed how that will hold up in the weather.

I'd definitely be insulating and that will protect the board as well.

Originally Posted by inferno6688

I know concrete is ideal. My back yard it tiered with levels. so it would be up 3 steps, then another 8 steps, then another 2 levels each of 2 steps. there is are fair climb to get to the back, hence i am not keen on wheel barrowing 3m3 of concrete. would probably have to pay waiting time on the agi too!

the concrete for the stumps i will probably just use hand mix. Atleast no pressure with agi's waiting etc.

I will look into LVL's. they are great strong and straight bearers!

I am still worried about using the yellow tongue particle board on the floor. with the underside essentially exposed how that will hold up in the weather.

thanks guys, keep the ideas rolling

If you are worried about the particleboard flooring, this is the link to the supplier for further info:
www.gunnersens.com.au

Particle board is a much better floor to work on as it is easier on the legs & back, & sharp edges should you drop tools. I would suggest using flooring that is treated against termite attack, & laying Aircell insulation over the bearers which will provide greater comfort.

Regards

good idea laying plastic/aircell down under the floorboards.

now just need to suss out who to get the shed from!

My 6 x 4 m shed has a red tongue particle board floor on steel C channels. I have left the floor "as is."

It is much easier on the legs and feet than my previous workshop set-up on a concrete floor.

As I have pretty good access under the shed (quite a steep slope), I am planning to one day relocate the dust collector outside and run some piping to a few floor mounted dust collection points / grates that I can sweep shavings / sawdust into.

The other advantage of a floor on stumps / piers etc is the possibility of wood racks under the shed (if protected from termites).

On the down side, I have found that the tablesaw seems to vibrate a little more on the timber floor, but I have not tried bolting it down to see if that reduces the vibration.

Originally Posted by Dion N

My 6 x 4 m shed has a red tongue particle board floor on steel C channels. I have left the floor "as is."

It is much easier on the legs and feet than my previous workshop set-up on a concrete floor.

As I have pretty good access under the shed (quite a steep slope), I am planning to one day relocate the dust collector outside and run some piping to a few floor mounted dust collection points / grates that I can sweep shavings / sawdust into.

The other advantage of a floor on stumps / piers etc is the possibility of wood racks under the shed (if protected from termites).

On the down side, I have found that the tablesaw seems to vibrate a little more on the timber floor, but I have not tried bolting it down to see if that reduces the vibration.

A sloping site sure beats a reasonably level site any day; so much can be done with the under space. Even a gentleman's retreat