shed lining options - ply, particle board, subframes?

[desbromilow]

G'Day,
shed will be going up very shortly - and I'm trying to scope up shed lining.
my girts (roll form portal frame shed) are on 1200mm centres, so that's the largest vertical span required.

I see my options as particle board (19mm yellow tongue), 12 or 17-19mm ply for the lining.

does anyone have any wisdom or experience with hanging lining sheets off these kid of centres? is it OK?
if not I presume I'll have to use a subframe and pull the spacing to 600mm or less, but that will eat into my usable floor space due to the intermediate bridging.

the walls won't be used for any substantial shelving, and there will be insulation behind the lining.

Thanks,
Des

[node105]

Did a mate's shed with 16mm melamine a few years ago, will be doing mine the same. Good light reflectivity.
He found a batch of slightly marked seconds, much cheaper.

Similar vertical between girts. with good side location bucking should not be an issue.
Used aluminium U channel on the floor and against the columns to locate the sheets into. Also to prevent any moisture wicking on floor spills...
I have a bunch of Aluminum T-section to tidy up any sheet to sheet joins for mine. We backed to back U channel in some sections.

[Midnight Man]

We just moved into a new place a few months ago, and about 8 years ago, the previous owner had lined the shed with 12mm plywood which he bolted straight on to the beams inside the shed.

He had done no sealing of the bottom, nor anything to deal with condensation.

We ripped all this plywood down, and in some places, found small patches of mould starting, and plenty activity from local bugs that had found a good, dry home in the cavities behind these sheets.

I would strongly recommend two things when constructing your shed:

(1) Get vermin sealing done on the bottom of the sheets of colourbond - something like this: Campbell Shed Products I am not endorsing this product, I'm giving it as an example. The folks who reconstructed our shed (we moved a lot of windows, doors etc) are supplying and installing around 32m of this stuff, and the cost is less than $600 installed.

(2) Strongly recommend whilst you're building that you put a layer of insulation with anticon on it - we used this stuff: https://www.kingspan.com/au/en-au/pr...l-insulshed-50 and it has made a huge difference to the moisture level inside the shed, and also to the temperature... sheds get hot in summer, and I'm not expecting ours to get hot any more. This stuff is really thin, and looks like it'll do almost nothing, but it makes a big big difference!

Once you have these things done, then consider lining the shed - you can use melamine, plywood, or MDF, or you can even construct a "false" frame wall from structural pine that sits in front of the actual wall, and gyprock that. I'm doing this, and I'm using the same technique as shown here (though this guy isn't inside a colourbond shed, the principal is the same): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfehVmSEyLQ&t=96s (the video begins by showing what he's building inside, then goes on to show how he builds the walls).

Hope this provides some ideas for you!

[desbromilow]

Midnight,
certainly given me some things to think about - thank you.

Des

[graham.murfett]

My 6m x 6m shed has a 25 degree gable, and a 3m x 3m mezzanine in one corner.
I have 50mm foil back batt insulation under the roof, and the internal walls are lined with 17mm C-D grade ply.
It's not as light reflective as melamine, but I wanted it to be visually warm, rather than lab-like.
The biggest air leaks are the opposing single roller doors, even when they're down. They leak like the proverbial.
I had 7 internal & 1 external double-GPOs installed, and it still aint enough.
Paint/seal the floor ASAP. it's just easier.
I couldn't imagine having a shed without lining on the walls.
Shed_01.jpg

[GraemeCook]

Hi Des

Mate used yellow tongue about ten years ago and it's great. Strong enough to hang quite heavy stuff - his wall is basically one great big shadow board.

The chipboard in melamine is not strong enough to hang stuff from without backing - mine lasted less than 3 months before I ripped it out.



Cheers

Graeme

[Midnight Man]

I'm going to pop in here and ask - yellow tongue... is that this stuff: https://www.bunnings.com.au/structaf...oring_p0460721

[KeithP]

I used yellow tongue with insulation behind, directly screwed to the timber rails.
It is very strong and I have no concerns of fitting shelving etc.

Regards
Keith

[desbromilow]

Thanks everyone for the help - it's looking as though yellowtongue screwed to the purlins/ girts will be the answer - except on the walls where a sub-frame is needed to reinstate a planar surface for mounting.
I'm planning on using sarking between the cladding and frame, and YT on the other side of the frame.

pictures will be taken as it goes.

thanks,
Des