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14th July 2018, 02:26 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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You guys have much cheaper MDF than we do. 3/4" (19mm) is over $40 a sheet for 1,244 x 2,464. Because we put a 6 mil poly vapour barrier under the inside sheeting with a gooey black snot called acoustic sealant at every plastic lap and on the studs where the staples go to stop air leaks, I didn't put anything at the joints of the 12mm OSB ($15 a sheet) I used for the shop walls. In your case where you may not use a vapour barrier you can seal the gaps/joints with a flexible paintable caulk. I may do it to mine if I ever get around to painting it just for looks.
Pete
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14th July 2018 02:26 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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14th July 2018, 04:54 AM #17Senior Member
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14th July 2018, 10:05 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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One thing I was going to mention - be careful using a phone for sound measurements.
Some phones have a very effective agc (automatic gain control). This means you will always get the same reading no matter what you do to reduce noise.
For example, my old Samsung s3 was great, but this new S7 is pointless for measurements.
Russ
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14th July 2018, 10:57 AM #19.
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If the app programmer had half a brain they would have programmed the AGC off.
There are also sound apps and there are sound apps.
Generally with an SPL app you get what you pay for
The sticky on the practical aspects of dust control has a long post about measuring noise from duct collectors and enclosures that may help and it also mentions SPL apps.
DRAFT: FAQ - Dust Extraction (Practical Aspects)
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14th July 2018, 07:14 PM #20Member
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- Apr 2017
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Nah, it's not that cheap here either, it's more expensive than for you What I was referring to was second-hand MDF, usually from packaging and such.
Thanks! I'm aware people are recommending acoustic sealants because they keep permanently flexible, but the issue is usually the price, especially for a larger area like a double garage. Green glue for between sheets would be way too much (>$20/m2, plus you need two layers of whatever you're using), but I might use their sealant for gaps.
Thanks, will do.
One of the benefits of using miniorb was no join work was needed but the plaster board was a PITA. Next time I build a shed I would use MDF and put minimal effort into the joins.I'll just run a bead of sealant along the joins and even leave the screws showing. Then if I want to remove a sheet it's dead easy to do. 2.4 x 1.2 m sheets are a reasonable size to handle and even the 1.2 x .6 would be fine, by the time you get cupboards, shelves, ducting and machinery around the place you don't tend to even notice the walls and they all help reduce the noise.
However now I managed to find 2400x1200x12mm sheets for $10 (also seconds), which should be a lot more manageable both for bringing them over and for installation. Unfortunately thinner but I think they'll do.
For sealant, do you reckon silicone, something like a flexible gap filler (https://www.bunnings.com.au/polyfill...alant_p1230031), acoustic sealant, expanding foam or something else?
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14th July 2018, 07:38 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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I wouldn’t bother going to the expense of an acoustic sealant if it is cost prohibitive. A standard polyurethane sealant like Sikaflex etc make would do the job. Likewise the no more gap type product you noted would be fine behind the sheets before you fix them off, the sikaflex would be better but you will never get a sheet off the wall again if you needed to.
Select your products and then just work on the principle of keeping everything water/ air tight to prevent sound leakage
I have done a reasonable amount of soundproofing work for hearing centres and home theatres and you get a good result with the standard more common systems and then you start throwing a lot more $$$ chasing incremental improvements using specialist products like lead vinyl
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14th July 2018, 08:46 PM #22SENIOR MEMBER
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14th July 2018, 09:27 PM #23.
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17th July 2018, 10:32 PM #24Member
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I've got most of the MDF sheets and getting the rest tomorrow. For the amount I even got a bit of a discount so it turned out great.
Unfortunately I almost ended up losing them from the ute on my way home, need to learn to tie things better!
Luckily the same company had some extra sound insulation from another job so I got that really cheap as well - it's new and about half the price. It's the Greenstuf Polyester acoustic blanket at 60mm, I got 120m2. That would be enough to cover the garage but I'm worried it's too light and thinking I should go for normal acoustic batts for the walls, and just use double layer of this in the ceiling.
Now the last thing I'm unsure about is how to deal with the doors, currently leaning towards simple swinging doors for simplicity and ease of insulation but I'd like to not lose too much opening, and at 5.4m I'm worried the door would be too heavy for the steel posts of the garage. Maybe reduce them to 2.5m so then each side at 1.25 should be ok. Planning to put them behind the existing roller door and just wall them off.
I'll post progress as I go.
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18th July 2018, 11:25 AM #25.
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18th July 2018, 01:32 PM #26Member
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That would be great but for the big door, the concrete is sloping down towards the road so I don't think I can make it work.
Would this be a question for a structural engineer? I don't want to bring my whole garage down [emoji3]
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18th July 2018, 01:51 PM #27.
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18th July 2018, 02:04 PM #28GOLD MEMBER
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How about a roll up door on the outside if allowed. About a grand or so according to the price calculator. Not as good as solid but should help some.
https://www.ozrollershutters.com.au
Pete
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18th July 2018, 02:14 PM #29Member
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- Melbourne
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Hm I'm not sure what you mean. The slope is about 12cm at 2.5m from the door. Wouldn't any kind of wheel either be too short when the door is open, or stuck when the door is closed? I haven't used a jack wheel before, so maybe I'm missing something? Does it automatically adjust height as it rolls?
This is what it looks like
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18th July 2018, 02:16 PM #30Member
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- Apr 2017
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- Melbourne
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Well I've already got roller door, they don't seem to do much.. Do you mean something like roller shutters to cover the roller door? That would probably help somewhat but I'd prefer solid door, especially with all the other effort I'm putting into sound insulation... Unless I'm misunderstanding what you mean?
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