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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
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    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by apple8 View Post
    The 40mm brads drove into the hardwood ok but only barely flush with the ply. I might try 32mm brads on the next panel.
    Maybe not such a good idea.
    Brads are relatively thin with no surface roughness, so have a comparatively low holding power compared to a framing or finishing nail.
    I'm not sure the usual 2/3 rds of the nail in the stud rule is appropriate. I'd feel much happier with a few more mm in the stud.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

    Default

    Update: got the last of the 15 plywood sheets in on Friday. Cutting the sheets face side down for a cleaner finish led to an error by me on the last sheet and cut the angle wrong. Fortunately it goes into a corner and the gap not hidden by the quad will be in the bottom corner behind the bench. The 40mm brads worked out ok into the hardwood and I used 50mm into the additional pine studs I had to install.

    Painting an off white colour today certainly brightens things up but I'm now thinking a bit too clinical and it may look better with bit of colour and tolerate scuff marks better.

    IMG_0106.JPG IMG_0104.JPG
    Last edited by apple8; 4th December 2016 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Photos

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

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    By the time you add cupboards and other storage items, you won't see to much of the white, what will be seen will make for a more light reflective work area.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

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    Ended up going for a pale grey colour. Done in a satin finish for light reflection and a easy clean surface. Bench is in place and cupboards mounted. Still to do after sparky completes work is to mount pegboard and mounting hooks for power garden tools. Only downside of lining walls is losing the wall cavity where some tool protrusions took up the space along with shelving and odds and sods placed out of the floor area, but overall happy with the results.

    IMG_0112.JPG IMG_0111.JPG

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

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    If it looked any better, my other half would have me living out there.
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

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    Pretty much have everything sorted now, rewired, tools mounted and a couple of bags of "what am I keeping this for cleaned out. Will find that out next week after the rubbish is picked up why I was keeping things.

    Thinking that I will probably look at lining the roof in the new year.

    IMG_0135.jpg IMG_0134.jpg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    I threw out two box trailer loads and have not missed any of it.
    CHRIS

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

    Default Security Improvements

    Was looking to upgrade the night latch lock on the shed door and came across a Honeywell digital dead lock in the Aldi catalogue for a reasonable price. So good to be able to get entry without going inside for keys.

    IMG_0266.jpg

    At the other end of the shed the patio doors that replaced the roller door some 25 years ago got a clean up and the tatty film replaced with frosted film so still have good lighting with the contents hidden from view.

    IMG_0267.jpg

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

    Default Roof Insulation and Lining.

    Finally got around to finishing off the inside of the shed roof. Although I had retro fitted some insulation in between the rafters there was still room for improvement and I experimented with some ply and my infrared temperature gun and found I could get better results with the second air gap.

    In in the end I opted for a product called Foilboard which is essentially polystyrene foam with a thin layer of aluminium on either side. After a chat with their rep I went for the 20mm thick boards. This gives an extra R value of 2 on top of the existing insulation.

    The pros for me are that at 20mm the boards are rigid enough to span the 750mm rafters without sagging, they are very light and easily handled, cut and installed by one person and doesn’t impose any worthwhile loading to the rafters, they give good insulation from the roof heat and exceptional light reflection within the shed. Additionally it is non toxic and flame retardant.

    The cons are, it will damage fairly easily as the aluminium is very thin, cutting it makes a mess even with the recommended knife cut and snap, I found it easier and more accurate using an old fine tooth pull saw and a rasp for smoothing edges which didn’t help the mess. I found it was best to use disposable gloves to keep sweaty oily hand prints off the surface.

    Initially I started out using the recommended foil board fasteners, I went with the blank plates and screwing into the predrilled hardwood. After a few sheets though it didn’t look that great, so I replaced them with 25mm mudguard washers and 8g countersunk screws for a flusher finish. I used the foilboard aluminium joining tape on the horizontal joins only as the vertical joins had rafters behind them. I was lucky that the rafter length to the walls were just under 1.8m and the sheets 1.2m wide so I was able get away with very little wastage. Ended up using 10 sheets on a 7.2 x 3.6 shed with 3 usable pieces totalling about half a sheet if I ever need them for repairs.

    Overall I’m very happy with the result, light reflection is great, life is now more comfortable temperature wise in the shed and it looks ok as well, so I thought I would pass on my experiences for others.

    2CC96A84-35B9-47E3-A142-CC52B38CEDFC.jpg 994F8051-00A0-4C2D-AE37-C6388D79C477.jpg 8943440A-BA62-4F77-A145-B11E2E988BF4.jpg

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    259

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    Agree with observations re Foilboard. Did a mates shed (c. 30x20) a few years ago with it, and my small wood room ceiling, and will be doing my current workshop build walls and ceiling with it in the next 2 months or so.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

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    Looks very neat! Will stop the government spy's from listening in too [emoji3]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
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    335

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    Looks very neat! Will stop the government spy's from listening in too [emoji3]

    Thanks, I’v thrown away my tin foil hat, although I have another spy listening in the form of a google Home mini.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
    Posts
    1,141

    Default Shed Upgrade and Lining

    What was the cost, if you don't mind me asking? (For the foilboard not the google gadget) [emoji3]

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    335

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    What was the cost, if you don't mind me asking? (For the foilboard not the google gadget) [emoji3]
    After getting a price beat from a big green shed the 20mm sheets were $32.60 each.

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Victoria, Aust
    Age
    64
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Unfortunately here in Oz, ply is very expensive.Best to stick with 12mm.

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