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Thread: Shed Upgrade and Lining
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12th November 2016, 04:05 PM #1Senior Member
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Shed Upgrade and Lining
Seeking some opinions my ideas on lining my 7.2 x 3.6 metre shed. I've trawled through previous posts but most seem to be related to all metal constructions. Built some 40 years ago as a detached garage, it is a fibro clad, timber framed with a corrugated iron roof. Given its age, there is little doubt the fibro is A/C sheeting, however it is in good condition and the externals have been regularly painted. The walls are protected on three sides by awnings or an adjacent building and the western wall is mostly protected in summer by good sized franjipani tree. The wall frame studs are 75 x 50mm hardwood at 600mm centres and the rafters 95 x 38mm hardwood at 750mm centres. We are located 50km southwest of Sydney.
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Walls: I am planning on using 9mm CD structural ply on the walls fixed with 40mm brad nails using an air nail gun but not sure about gluing as well and whether I should insulate with bats or will the wall air space and ply will be adequate insulation.
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Roof: As the primary source of heat transfer I have used air cell insulation stapled between the rafters which has made a lot difference to radiated heat from the corrugated iron roof and want to line this as well to further reduce heat/cold transmission. However I am concerned the 9mm ply might be too much loading on the rafters and so I am after some opinions on what ply thickness would be suitable to used without overloading the rafters and still rigid enough to avoid too much sagging or to an alternative material. Rafter length is 1830mm from the ridge to the top plate.
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Sorry for being long winded but I wanted to include all the information as I think it helps to to understand the requirements and thanks in advance for any input
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12th November 2016 04:05 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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12th November 2016, 04:41 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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IF you are going to line it, put the bats in. Not only does it keep it cooler in summer and warmer in winter, it helps keep the noise inside the shed.
I used brads to nail my sheets to the wall without glue. They hold fine and with a little convincing they can be removed if you need access (as I did to run power outside). Not sure if you will be able to shoot them into hardwood though! Worth a try. Might need to use pine roof battens onto the hardwood then nail the sheets to that.
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12th November 2016, 07:11 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I would use 12mm ply for the lining so I could then use a french cleat system for storage, the 12mm would hold fasteners better. Put any wiring etc in before you start and mark the vertical frames on the plywood for further reference.
CHRIS
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12th November 2016, 07:31 PM #4
Hi apple8
I second Chris's suggestion to use 12mm ply for the walls so that you can more easily attach stuff to it. I'd even be inclined to use 18mm ply.
Being hardwood and 40+ years old, brads may not be driveable. Be prepared to drill and screw to the studs. In fact drill (for pilot holes) and screws might be the best option as it will allow you to remove individual sheets to get into the cavity if you need to.
I think that the convention is to arrange the ply with the long axis horizontal.
The roof?
You should be more worried about the lining material sagging between the rafters rather than overloading them.
It might be easier to frame out the roof with 2 x 1 pine and install gyprock. At least the Gyprock will be easier to paint white for light reflection than ply.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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12th November 2016, 09:59 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Using the french cleat system will enable you to get away with 12mm, I have just done that, if you intend to use screws to hold heavy stuff perhaps use 18mm but the costs start snowballing at that point.
CHRIS
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12th November 2016, 10:10 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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13th November 2016, 10:58 AM #7Senior Member
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13th November 2016, 11:07 AM #8Senior Member
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The existing cupboards etc are attached to the studs which have served well over the years, I have cleaned them up and will probably reattached similar after lining. Power is currently in conduit attached to the top plate so I will slip the sheets under the conduit and reattach.
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13th November 2016, 11:29 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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I did what you are doing ten years ago and used three ply, all I wanted was to get rid of the dirt catching frame and tidy the place up. I have never needed to attach anything to the lining so up until now it has worked out well, it was cheap at the time (the prime criteria) easy to handle and quick to do. I have started to put a french cleat system recently and now I am going to have to line part of one wall with some thicker material. I am not concerned that it will be part of one wall and look a bit different because to me it is only a shed and it is only me that needs to be concerned with the way it looks and I couldn't care less, functionality before looks is my creed, if it works who cares. So if you do not intend to hang stuff off it and change your mind down the track throw up some thicker stuff where you need it then, buy some tools with the money saved now and job done. I doubt the thicker material will have any huge impact on sound outside the shed but I am no expert, it has to have some of course but will it justify the extra cost. I would cost 18mm against three play, tell the missus, put up three ply and buy tools with the money saved.
CHRIS
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13th November 2016, 11:39 AM #10Senior Member
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Fixing will need some experimentation given the age of the hardwood.
I was thinking that I would cut off 300mm the 2.4 length to match the 2.1M wall height and fix vertically, but I can see now that horizontal has the advantage of reducing the number of joins on the studs, especially if I have fix with screws.
Yes sagging is an issue and looks bad where it occurs, hence something rigid and light is reqired.
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16th November 2016, 03:37 PM #11Senior Member
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Ply sheets should be delivered on Thursday.
Is there any need to have the sheets clear of the concrete floor or to leave expansion gaps between the sheets? I would think that with timber on timber any expansion would be equal and installing on a warm day will be close to max anyway. And is there any value in painting/sealing the back side of the ply? I intend to paint the face side white after install.
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16th November 2016, 05:25 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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What thickness did you eventually decide on? I would just stand them up vertically, that way each sheet is loaded to the ground and the wall studs just keep it standing up. You won't need that many screws to each sheet and screws are cheap anyway. I wouldn't bother painting behind the sheet but that is just me as I hate painting.
CHRIS
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17th November 2016, 11:24 AM #13Senior Member
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I ended up with 9mm structural CD grade ply. It should strong enough to take a knock and flexible enough to shape around the deformities you get with an old hardwood construction. Actually found today where I scratched the year 1975 when the concrete was laid. I can use the wall studs or a battern fixed to the studs to hang anything with a bit of weight.
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17th November 2016, 12:24 PM #14
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23rd November 2016, 09:58 PM #15Senior Member
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Some progress after 35 degree days and great grandchildren visiting delayed things a bit which isn't a problem because there is no deadline. I'm doing it in one half and two quarters due to having relocate cupboards etc.
Insulation on the first half is installed and the two narrow ply panels either side of sliding door are in. The 40mm brads drove into the hardwood ok but only barely flush with the ply. I might try 32mm brads on the next panel.
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