Thread: Wood storage Rack for the Shed

Well done Steve. Looks great. I need something like that.

Good work on the shelves.

If you want to store pieces shorter than the spaces between the rack arms just put a sheet of MDF long enough to fit between the arms, it might also need a bit of a back ledge on the MDF to stop the pieces falling off the back.

Hi,
Did you look at the Triton wood rack? It does have to mount on something but could be incorporated as part of something like you have made.
Just a thought, they are what I use.
Regards

Originally Posted by A Duke

Hi,
Did you look at the Triton wood rack? It does have to mount on something but could be incorporated as part of something like you have made.
Just a thought, they are what I use.
Regards

Hey Duke,

I did look at the triton racks but mounting them to a free standing unit didn't seem to offer any real advantages for me and the shelves are too short to mount a SCMS, however if you had a spare set you could incorporate them into the design I'm sure.

Bob,

great idea with the MDF with a bit of a backing board , I'll definitly look to incorporate them for smaller pieces.

Good job Steve
I have been looking at the same options. Being able to easily get boards in and out of the rack is a big benefit.

Store bought seem to be too light and too expensive.

I keep coming back to a rack like yours.
My shed is a timber frame so I have the advantage of having studs to screw into.

My SCMS might be on a cabinet with castors so I can pull it out to cut longer boards.....maybe.
It is a messy machine so I think I will put a shop vac in the cabinet and build a big dust shroud behind it.
The other thing I need is a bin for all the short offcuts I accumulate around it.

Cheers

Nice build wish I had a free wall to do something similar

Very nice indeed Steve. You should be very proud and happy with your efforts.
I reckon it's great that we woodies always return to wood to solve our problems when metal lets us down.
From the angle in the second pic it seems like there's a bow under your MS, but I think it could probably be put down to a parallax error with the camera's view.

Cheers,
Bob

This is what I did with mine....mind you I have concrete tilt slab and my racks are fixed with chem set bolts but coach bolts into timber studs would work OK.
The racks are made from 40mmx40mm RHS 3mm wall. The horizontal sections are butt welded to the uprights all the on all 4 edges and are extremely strong.

Skot, great racks.
I see you also have heaps of storage room under those rafters. I realize they are pretty high up but when space get's tight that is a great reserve to have available.

You are right Bobl...at the moment it is sufficient and have looked of the spaces between the beams for future storage if necessary.

Originally Posted by skot

You are right Bobl...at the moment it is sufficient and have looked of the spaces between the beams for future storage if necessary.

I forget where but I have seen a very neat system for long term clothing and linen storage between deep beams like that. It consisted of wooden boxes that fit between the beams with each box was attached to the beams by 4 long wood arms so as the boxes swung down on the arms from between the beams. The boxes were lowered and raised using a cord and pulley system and had an additional safety catch to hold them in the closed position. When the boxes were fully lowered they came down to about waist height so the contents of the box could be easily accessed. Obviously not meant for heavy stuff but still very neat and tidy.

BobL....You have peaked my interest with that storage idea....I have a fair bit of stuff on shelves that only gets used very rarely. I could put them in those boxes, hoist them into the spaces and label them so they can be read from below.

Is there any reason why a rack that stands timber on its end (leaned back against the wall) is any worse than a horizontal rack?

The more you put in a vertical rack - the more weight the ground or slab has to cope with whereas when its horizontal in a rack and it eventually gets overloaded with that one straw piece that breaks the camels back...the more weight those arms have to cope with. What is the potential risk for injury if a horizontal arm/s lets go (arm delaminates, splits away from the coach screw, glue fails)?.

Standing it on end just seems to me to make more sense - the only weight the arms support is keeping the pieces upright....they aren't bearing the full weight of stock in the shelf... and added bonus, when you looking to select a piece close to the right legth you have your eye height as a rough ready reckoner (1.6) as to whats too long or short without having to unstack a while shelf to get to a particular piece and then find it's 20mm short!

I had a sheet rack inclined back against a wall - so that when the truck arrived with a bulk pack of 2400 x 1200 while mel sheets - we could stack the whole pack in it, one sheet at a time off the truck... and they were ready to go over the panel saw straight off the rack - just lean a sheet forward and down onto the table.

In essence one half of a glass makers A frame for glass racking.

Lots less lifting i.e. more ergonomic.

Just my 2c.

Others mileage vary's depending in your available space etc

Originally Posted by Timless Timber

Is there any reason why a rack that stands timber on its end (leaned back against the wall) is any worse than a horizontal rack?

A vertical leaning rack is a good idea for material that is all the same size and just under the wall height but
- it cannot cope with pieces longer than the height of the wall
- provides less storage for shorter pieces because you can't exactly stack them "end on", on top of each other.

If the material is not too wide then a leaning rack that does not lean on the wall but leans on rack arms coming out of the walls has the big advantage in that pieces can be more easily extracted. However it still suffers from the same problems listed above.

I agree that if the pieces are large they are safer if they are already touching the floor.