Thread: Wood storage shed

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

I don't have a laser level.

String lines give the irits (but used sometimes).

So to get a right-angle off the first row of posts it was Pythagoras to the rescue.

I can think of two other laser levels ... Chris and RWBuild. Ahh, if only

Originally Posted by Simplicity

Looks great so far Brett.
But we must teach you the water bucket and hose trick(clear see through hose)
If no one jumps in and helps me out I find some information on it for you.

Cheers Matt

Water level you mean? Never seen it done with a bucket though

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Im liking the build. Why are mine never this quick.

It seems to me that some of the words of a recent email are having a deeper inpact on me as I read of the coming gtg and what could be in store - hmmmmm

Originally Posted by chris0375

Try draftsight. It's free and very similar to AutoCAD. You can download border sheets, templates etc very easily.

Much more flexible than sketch up, paint etc etc

I gotta remember that

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

So who apart from me thinks that Brett's "posts" AKA studs are the "wobbly" way round?

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Today - last two post into concrete holes (12/12 now in), some preliminary levelling, no fooling around (apart from watching the Presidential debate - man that guy sucks)

Originally Posted by ian

So who apart from me thinks that Brett's "posts" AKA studs are the "wobbly" way round?

Agree, and a little diagonal bracing wouldn't hurt either...........

Originally Posted by ian

So who apart from me thinks that Brett's "posts" AKA studs are the "wobbly" way round?

All the posts have to run the same way to facilitate being able to slide shelving in (gaps between the posts are 910-920 to accommodate yellow tongue shelves where I want them). I figured that it would be best to have them running downhill too, and the other thing is that having them this way allowed me to get an extra 180mm width on the roof for extra eave width - the rafter lengths were governed by the shortest available rafter which was 3500, and that allows for an eave of 250 on the southern side and 350 on the northern side (which is the predominant direction that rain comes from (NW).

Originally Posted by Bedford

Agree, and a little diagonal bracing wouldn't hurt either...........

Surely the metal walls and roof will operate in the same way as ply bracing?

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Surely the metal walls and roof will operate in the same way as ply bracing?

Generally not considered to. Especially when fixed at ridges as opposed to the valleys. It will, in practice, of course help a little bit.

Strap bracing is very cheap and easy. Crazy not to use it unless you have a very good reason not to.

Originally Posted by chris0375

Strap bracing is very cheap and easy. Crazy not to use it unless you have a very good reason not to.

Now I'm so glad you brought that up Chris - I just happen to have some strap bracing under the hoose! The current shed was propped up with it when is was left as just a frame.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

I just happen to have some strap bracing under the hoose!

AND I managed to find it instantly! Remarkable.

2 lengths of ~3m and 4 lengths of ~4m. As I recall it was held down with roofing bolts on the old shed. Do they need to be that substantial or would 10g 44mm screws be sufficient (countersink head)? I do have plenty of roofing bolts (box of 1000 new, and hundreds of used ones) but I'm just thinking about them sticking up by the 6mm hex head and therefore raising the metal cladding (although I doubt that would matter much at all).

How much ventilation are you putting into this Brett? Metal sheds retain moisture unless the air is changed over and leaving the ground open and not covered and having timber in there that has a water content you will need fans or a system of some type to move air. When it rains, or likely bloody snows knowing Katoomba the ground moisture is going to rise considerably in fact you may not even be able to control it at all. At the least I would have a raised slatted floor with a system to draw air from bottom to top but others may think that is overkill.

There's no closing door Chris so the entry of 2.4 x 900 will be permanently open. If moisture becomes a problem then I may have to put a whirly bird or two in.

I've been considering putting some black plastic down too.

I bought an extra 30m roll of strapping so I can do the roof and add more to the sides.

I often use 2.8mm x 30mm conector nails for bracing

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

I often use 2.8mm x 30mm connector nails for bracing

Ok sounds like 10g 44mm screws will be fine then. Because the posts are showing the 90mm face to the bracing (on the long sides of the shed) I can put 2-3 screws per post in. At this point I've only used the six strips that were under the house, and will start using the 30m roll once now that I have put in more of the shelf supports.

Will brace the roof as well after I have finished the timber work there.

I was a little off my game this morning, what with a couple of trips to the hardware and some other incidentals. Came good by lunchtime, and got the shelf supports on the northern wall in, last perimeter post (on disc pad), the last 3 rafters, put the rest of the screws in the rafters, and the southern rafter beam. I'll need help from Heinz (2 doors down) to get the northern rafter beam in tomorrow.

I had planned to run 3 full length 70x35 purlins (which I already have) for the steel roof but they are actually not necessary as the metal sheet ridges run perpendicular to the rafters. However, after a call from Chris Parks re snow loading (perhaps one good 4" dump per year) I'll still add purlins, and will need some anyway between the last two rafters on each end to accommodate the steel roof overhang at the short ends of the shed (with another beam across the end of them).

Will also add a bottom plate to support the rafters in case of snow. This part will be a little bit tricky because the rafters vary considerably in height (some are 130, some are 160 or more - some are tapered too - that's recycled timber for you). That means these bottom plates can't be one full length, so I'll probably use some of the shorter pieces of 4x2 hardwood for this task. In fact, I can't see why a short hardwood block (say 250mm long) running vertically up the post to meet the rafter for support won't be just as good (given that the posts are oriented the way the are). Put three bugle heads screws (which are around 7mm in dia) into the blocks. Any comments on this technique please?

As luck would have it the delivery lead time from the hardware was short, and I already have the 150x25 H4 skirting boards, so I can cut them in tomorrow. This is good because it will allow me to finish the floor levelling which means I can proceed with the posts on pads for the interior of the shed - which means I can then finish the shelf supports, and then get the noggings in between them. The noggings and the strap bracing should make the whole thing lack any movement whatsoever - that's the plan anyway!

Run a plate under the rafters and cut packers in to suit the differences you strike, that ties the top of the Vertical framing together for added strength.