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Thread: Wood storage shed
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16th October 2016, 08:15 PM #91
SO the question is: to sark or not to sark the roof? My understanding is that sarking is less about insulation and more about allowing condensation from under the metal roof to run off. However, given that sarking is just two layers of aluminium (?) foil in a tar sandwich, I have to wonder whether the condensation will just form on the under side of the sarking, thus negating that purpose of putting it in???
I will be putting black plastic over the dirt in the shelved areas so that should prevent most moisture from coming up from the earth internally, but we get heavy dew up here in winter (and many frosts).
On the other hand, I don't ever recall seeing any condensation in the metal garden shed, but that has a sliding door that it always shut at night (the shed will be open at the entry).
What to do?
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16th October 2016, 08:32 PM #92
I think sark makes a difference
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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16th October 2016, 08:33 PM #93
But if it doesn't you can let us all know 😉
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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16th October 2016, 08:52 PM #94
Hmmm.
The only real way I can see it making a difference is if I was to sark on top of the rafters, then put the purlins down (without rebating them into the rafters). That would leave a 35mm air gap between the sarking and the roof, but I wonder if that's enough to stop the sarking getting cold enough to form condensation on the underside - probably not. The cold air would still be getting in through the entry.
I think I'm going to skip the sarking - if necessary it could be added later, although a lot of mucking around taking the roof back off. You may hear a very loud "SARK IT!"
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16th October 2016, 09:13 PM #95
Brett,
Maybe a simple test.
Awake at around 6 am go out side to test area, all ready set up.
One sheet of roof tin horizontal and one sark sheet horizontal.
And see which one is the coldest.
I'm putting my money on the tin one.
Cheers Matt
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16th October 2016, 09:23 PM #96
Good idea Matt. I still have a small piece of sarking from Ian's rolls.
I could do two - one with gap and one without. I happen to have an infra-red thermometer which takes readings of surfaces (absolutely excellent for getting frying pan to the right temp)
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16th October 2016, 09:33 PM #97
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16th October 2016, 10:09 PM #98
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16th October 2016, 11:07 PM #99
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17th October 2016, 03:47 AM #100
Dont PM him. He is more likely to wake to a phone call 😉
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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17th October 2016, 08:31 AM #101GOLD MEMBER
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Brett, In an enclosed building with no sarking you will have a water feature. This particularly applies to a climate such as the BMs. If the shed is fully open, sarking is not so important. My timber storage is fully enclosed, sarked and insulated. My air drying sheds are open on three sides with blow through at roof level on the enclosed side and do not condensate.
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17th October 2016, 04:30 PM #102
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17th October 2016, 07:37 PM #103
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17th October 2016, 07:58 PM #104
A rain and shopping interrupted day today so didn't really get cracking until 1.30. In any case I have now finished the timber work except for roof purlin positioning and cutting in. I have to position them very carefully to run under the ridges of the metal roof.
Got the shelving in the middle section done (against the back wall only). It was a bit more fiddly than the rest, but one less shelf (3).
When I try and shake it the bracing rattles slightly but there appears to be minimal movement. Bracing the roof and the last wall will assist with that (my aim is no movement at all, but maybe that's not achievable?). The second rafter from the west is also unsupported on the northern face at this point (so, ahem, I haven't actually finished the timber work I've just realised ) and that will contribute to the movement that is present.
I'm not really sure what the benchmark is for movement - is a little vibration acceptable? It's not very much, and I'm certainly not worried about it collapsing.
Ran out of light for a pic, so tomorrow (again).
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18th October 2016, 12:27 AM #105
hi Brett, I'm not getting your rafter and purlin arrangement.
Rafters are supposed to run along the slope of the roof and the purlins cross the slope. With a wriggly tin (gal iron) roof, the purlins also give you the stiffness needed so you can walk on the roof and the material to screw the iron to. From memory, the ends of the iron are supposed to be screwed every second ridge, with internal rows every third or fourth ridge.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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