Thread: Workshop Layout Any Ideas Suggestions

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Its going to be one circuit and one power point thats it..

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It sounds like you can just run your DC on the 10A circuit and the machines on the 20A circuit with one 20A Outlet - all good

I reckon you will eventually get annoyed having to move machines and swapping those 20A plugs - they are quite different from 10-15A plugs.
What is likely to happen (especially what Ian said about having to level machines) is that eventually you will realise that you can actually leave machines in the same place in the shed for a majority of the time.
When this happens post again and I will show your sparky how they can simultaneously connect all 4 20A machines to the one outlet in a truly safe manner that does not involve adding any circuits to the building and will be something you can take with you wherever you move.
It doesn't mean you can never move machines again, you can move them but it will involve plug connects and disconnects.

We have this machine moving/plug swapping issue at the mens shed and I find it a right PITB.
It doesn't bother most members because they know no better but once you have worked in a workshop where all machines are available at the flick of a switch it's hard to go back.
It's one of a number of reasons I won't work there unless I really have to.

My shed is really crowded and only two of my machines are on wheels but I actually only move one maybe half a dozen times a year, and the other a few times a year.

Okay - here is a blank slate - draw in the were U would place.

Bandsaw, Sliding Tablesaw, Jointer/Thicknesser, Drill Press & Dust extractor
Work Bench, Tool Cabinets, Saw Horses, Sharpening Station

Screen Shot 2017-03-30 at 11.28.49 pm.png

Here's my suggestion

Work bench under window.
Tool cabinets to left of bench to suit Left handed WW
Sharpening station near door to facilitate connection to water supply and drainage (using poly pipe)

machines clustered near double garage door. Ideally the Bandsaw and dusty (assumed from earlier specs to be a Felder unit) would be on wheels.

sufficient space between bench and table saw to allow room for an assembly bench.

storage for saw horses ignored for now as they might actually be used to support the temporary assembly table.

assumed constraints.
primary entry is through the person door to rear yard.
dusty can't be placed outside.
room air filter will be installed to deal with dust leaking from Dusty.

I like Ian's lay out except I would put the Dusty near the door, sharpening station next to that.

By the time the lathe turns up you will have a better idea of your work flow and worry about that when it arrives.

Originally Posted by Moph

Also consider ceiling-mounted GPOs rather than wall mount.

This works well, especially if you are likely to be moving machines.

Stay sharp!

Neil

Okay this is my interpretation..

MACHINE AREA

The tablesaw, bandsaw & thicknesser / jointer placement is per Ian's placement.
I however have moved the dust extractor to be closer to the exit ports (RED SQUARES) of the machines instead of running the dust hose back across the workshop to the back door. This also reduced the ducting from 8 meters to 4 meters. I will need to run the fine dust escape tube out the double garage door down the driveway into the front garden. This would mean keeping the double garage door open 150mm at the most this will also help to refresh the air.
I have included the timber rack per Ian's placement.
However their is not enough space to keep the drill press to the right of the tablesaw so it got moved to near the rear door.
I will not need space for a router table because my table saw will come with a spindle moulder.
I think having a single 20 amp circuit and multiple ceiling-mounted GPOs (BLUE DOTS) is a good idea, saves plugging and unplugging.

HAND WORK AREA

While their is a decent windows in the back wall of the workshop they are the textured glass like those used in showers that you cannot see through and in terms of light are almost as good at letting light through as a house brick (pointless).
I do not like having my workbench against a wall I like to be able to work ALL around my bench not just the side that as the vice.
I also prefer my cabinets to be by my back so I can pivot around and get and return tools with ease.
The sharpening station I am going to move out of the workshop and into the laundry, water problem solved.

Screen Shot 2017-03-31 at 11.52.22 am.jpg

Originally Posted by BobL

I like Ian's lay out except I would put the Dusty near the door, sharpening station next to that.

I considered this, but
1. thumbsucker has previously stated that he is unwilling to open up the 120mm dust ports on his new machines, so I was concerned to keep the dust collection line as short as possible.
2. thumbsucker intends installing one new high amperage power point.
3. putting the dusty near the pedestrian door so that it can be easily vented to the outside assumes that the pedestrian door will be open most of a Melbourne winter. Is this likely?
4. I wanted to locate the workbench under the window.

The dusty could go near the door, but if it were so, then the bench would end up facing the double door -- a fairly uninspiring view.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Okay this is my interpretation..

MACHINE AREA

The tablesaw, bandsaw & thicknesser / jointer placement is per Ian's placement.
I however have moved the dust extractor to be closer to the exit ports (RED SQUARES) of the machines instead of running the dust hose back across the workshop to the back door. This also reduced the ducting from 8 meters to 4 meters. I will need to run the fine dust escape tube out the double garage door down the driveway into the front garden. This would mean keeping the double garage door open 150mm at the most this will also help to refresh the air. -- hopefully BobL will chime in, but my thought is that you may want to use a much larger vent hose, similar to the hose fitted to portable air conditioning units. And block off most of the space between the floor and bottom of the partially open door. If the door has a powered lift, it almost certainly also has a safety feature to stop kids, in particular, being crushed by the closing door. This is something you may need some specialist knowledge to work around.
I have included the timber rack per Ian's placement.
However their is not enough space to keep the drill press to the right of the tablesaw so it got moved to near the rear door.
I will not need space for a router table because my table saw will come with a spindle moulder. -- I understand what you are saying, but I've been eyeing off the Hammer saw/spindle combo for at least the last 10 years, and remain unconvinced as to its usefulness in a home shop. Even if it comes with a router shaft, I think you would still require a router table of some sort if you are going to use a Gifkins or similar jig.
I think having a single 20 amp circuit and multiple ceiling-mounted GPOs (BLUE DOTS) is a good idea, saves plugging and unplugging. -- no doubt you have seen the other discussion on this issue. Make sure you and your sparky both understand what your power supply need is.

HAND WORK AREA

While their is a decent windows in the back wall of the workshop they are the textured glass like those used in showers that you cannot see through and in terms of light are almost as good at letting light through as a house brick (pointless).
I do not like having my workbench against a wall I like to be able to work ALL around my bench not just the side that as the vice.
I also prefer my cabinets to be by my back so I can pivot around and get and return tools with ease.
The sharpening station I am going to move out of the workshop and into the laundry, water problem solved.

Screen Shot 2017-03-31 at 11.52.22 am.jpg

good idea to move the messy part of sharpening into the laundry.
But can I suggest that your sharpening regime include something media that can be used dry -- something like a Spyderco Ultra Fine stone and/or honing compound on MDF or hardwood -- then you will be able to touch up an edge at one end of your bench.

Originally Posted by ian

good idea to move the messy part of sharpening into the laundry.
But can I suggest that your sharpening regime include something media that can be used dry -- something like a Spyderco Ultra Fine stone and/or honing compound on MDF or hardwood -- then you will be able to touch up an edge at one end of your bench.

You must understand that I am a JNat user and this would go against the Dharma of my stones and tools.

Originally Posted by ian

I understand what you are saying, but I've been eyeing off the Hammer saw/spindle combo for at least the last 10 years, and remain unconvinced as to its usefulness in a home shop. Even if it comes with a router shaft, I think you would still require a router table of some sort if you are going to use a Gifkins or similar jig.

I have used a Hammer Spindle Moulder at Uni, and it is perfect for the kind of work I like to do. I have no interest in the spindle moulder per say and agree it has little use in a small workshop. However with the MF spindle system - Moulder spindle with collet chuck coupler you can fit any size 6,8,10,11,12, 6.35mm 9.53mm and the 12.70mm collet to it. I have used this and its fantastic, considering to jerry rig a similar system with lifter, cast iron table, tilting, sliding table & router would cost me more then the Hammer setup and never work as sweet.

Gifkins or similar jig is not something I would ever have a use for as they would robe me from one of the most joyous parts of furniture making.

Originally Posted by ian

can I suggest that your sharpening regime include something media that can be used dry -- something like a Spyderco Ultra Fine stone and/or honing compound on MDF or hardwood -- then you will be able to touch up an edge at one end of your bench.

Not necessary, Ian.

Thumbsucker uses high end Japanese hand forged woodworking tools and natural waterstones. They may take bit longer to sharpen, but once sharp they stay very sharp for a very long time... : -)




Stay sharp!

Neil

Originally Posted by ian

I considered this, but
1. thumbsucker has previously stated that he is unwilling to open up the 120mm dust ports on his new machines, so I was concerned to keep the dust collection line as short as possible.
2. thumbsucker intends installing one new high amperage power point.
3. putting the dusty near the pedestrian door so that it can be easily vented to the outside assumes that the pedestrian door will be open most of a Melbourne winter. Is this likely?
4. I wanted to locate the workbench under the window.

The dusty could go near the door, but if it were so, then the bench would end up facing the double door -- a fairly uninspiring view.

Irrespective of the size of the ports and his ducting. the single most important thing to do with a DC is to either get it outside or vent it outside. Then at least some of the fine dust is completely removed from the shed. If this is not done the ALL of the fine dust will remain in his shed. This is more important that keeping his ducting lines short.

Unless he can modify the door would indeed have to be left open but the that does not mean the opening cannot be closed off in another way such that the vent hose for the DC can pass though it.
A couple of ideas would be a lightweight panel placed across the doorway with a corner opening for the vent hose, or a weighted flexible curtain or some kind.

Originally Posted by BobL

the single most important thing to do with a DC is to either get it outside or vent it outside

How does the idea of venting out the double garage doors sound? Will it work, I can click the remote and the door will open say 150mm then I can click the remote again and the door will stop moving. I can then pass the venting hose through and out.

Originally Posted by NeilS

Thumbsucker uses high end Japanese hand forged woodworking tools and natural waterstones. They may take bit longer to sharpen, but once sharp they stay very sharp for a very long time... : -)

I would not go that far, I have some nice Japanese tools, good honest work mans tools to whom I try to give them the dignity they deserve. I learn, I struggle and sometimes I take baby steps forward. I will post over in the Japanese Tools Area soon.

Why do you want to move your bench away from the natural light offered by a window!??! I would kill for that opportunity in my workshop/garage.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

How does the idea of venting out the double garage doors sound? Will it work, I can click the remote and the door will open say 150mm then I can click the remote again and the door will stop moving. I can then pass the venting hose through and out.

As long as you were to have the end of the hose a good couple of metres down the drive and block off the remaining gap under the door.
It does not need to be completely air tight the shed is through the gap above the roller door - that's why I'm suggesting venting a couple of meters down the driveway.