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  1. #136
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    Pete,
    Do the joining cables come with them? If not, did you buy some?

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  3. #137
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    Mar 2006
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    Emailed Lonyung 11:30am and got a response by 12:58pm total time less ~ 88 minutes. You got to love the Chinese & Germans.

    Got a response back from Lonyung, total cost including all the cables and postage comes to AU $581.4 - now I need to talk to the electrician.

    The sad thing is that almost half that cost is shipping.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Pete, Do the joining cables come with them? If not, did you buy some?
    They include them for free. I asked for 1025mm lengths they say that is what they will give me.

    I had a look at Visual Interior tool

    https://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/

    But I do not know what to enter for Criteria. Can ANYONE HELP? Its asking for ----

    Criteria
    Illuminance lux
    Power Density W/m²
    Quantity

    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    If you ask they will send you a copy of the certification document that you need in Australia. Your electrician buddy can tell you which standard they should be.
    Will do.

  4. #138
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Pete,
    Do the joining cables come with them? If not, did you buy some?
    Yes. There is an input cable about 10" long, another connection cable that is also about 10" long to join 2 lights together in a line or set them at an angle to one another, and finally a 2" long connector that lets you butt 2 fixtures together. I have 4 rows of 4 fixtures using the 2" connectors. The picture of the ceiling shows two partial rows with the fixtures connected looking like one long light. You can connect up to a total of 200 watts of fixtures together through the first input connector. With my lights that would be 5 fixtures. Longer cords are optional but cost diddly squat. 30" input cords were a bit more than a buck US each.

    The mounting is a breeze too. A couple three clips are screwed to the ceiling with the supplied screw,
    then snap the fixture in.

    Pete

  5. #139
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    Mar 2006
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    I just asked how much the 60W version (LY-SF90L1200-60W) at 6000-7800 lumens cost USD$43.77 a whooping $2.71 more, so I will upgrade to the 60W version (LY-SF90L1200-60W).

    They just sent me these two files for certificates - are they the right thing?

    SAA CERTI. for led Tri-proof light.pdf
    SAA CERTI. for Tri-proof light.pdf

  6. #140
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,756

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    1 Lux = 1 lumen/m^2

    That app is not that easy to use accurately because you need to know the technical specifications of your lighting fixture and reflectance of your walls floors etc
    You could use one of their built in lighting fixture specs to gauge some relative effects
    It's interesting to see what ceiling height does to the lighting at bench height

  7. #141
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    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    I just asked how much the 60W version (LY-SF90L1200-60W) at 6000-7800 lumens cost USD$43.77 a whooping $2.71 more, so I will upgrade to the 60W version (LY-SF90L1200-60W).
    maybe not a cost effective decision. A brighter light normally equates with placing the light further away -- think a higher ceiling -- which may not be applicable for your space

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    I had a look at Visual Interior tool

    https://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/

    But I do not know what to enter for Criteria. Can ANYONE HELP? Its asking for ----

    Criteria
    Illuminance lux
    Power Density W/m²
    Quantity
    lux are lumens / m², so you can use 750 as suggested by BobL. The other values can be left blank as they are alternate ways of describing the same thing.
    Somewhere I've seen recommendations for general lighting and task lighting. Found them in the Engineering tool box.

    Recommended light levels for different work spaces:
    Activity Illumination
    (lux, lumen/m2)
    Public areas with dark surroundings 20 - 50
    Simple orientation for short visits 50 - 100
    Working areas where visual tasks are only occasionally performed 100 - 150
    Warehouses, Homes, Theaters, Archives 150
    Easy Office Work, Classes 250
    Normal Office Work, PC Work, Study Library, Groceries, Show Rooms, Laboratories 500
    Supermarkets, Mechanical Workshops, Office Landscapes 750
    Normal Drawing Work, Detailed Mechanical Workshops, Operation Theaters 1,000
    Detailed Drawing Work, Very Detailed Mechanical Works 1500 - 2000
    Performance of visual tasks of low contrast and very small size for prolonged periods of time 2000 - 5000
    Performance of very prolonged and exacting visual tasks 5000 - 10000
    Performance of very special visual tasks of extremely low contrast and small size 10000 - 20000

    What the above means is that you really only need a high level of light over the areas where you are working. The edges of the space, which you are planning to use for storage, can have a light level lower than 750 lumens. The impact will be lower number of light fixtures.
    In your machining area, you need enough light to read the scales on the machines, and measure components -- but you might do this with a spot source rather than area lighting. The decision is up to you.

    It may pay to invest in a few litres of white under coat to paint the walls and ceiling of the garage.

    Also, will the lights you are looking at be attached to the garage ceiling or suspended 300 mm below the ceiling? The answer will effect your result.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #142
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    I just asked how much the 60W version (LY-SF90L1200-60W) at 6000-7800 lumens cost USD$43.77 a whooping $2.71 more, so I will upgrade to the 60W version (LY-SF90L1200-60W).

    They just sent me these two files for certificates - are they the right thing?

    SAA CERTI. for led Tri-proof light.pdf
    SAA CERTI. for Tri-proof light.pdf
    They look the right thing, they are issued by an Australian regulating agency, but double check with your sparky.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  9. #143
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    The impact will be lower number of light fixtures.
    And lower running costs.

    I have 10 general lighting LED tubes in my shed, and there are another 9 that are specifically located.
    There are pairs of tubes directly above the wood and metal lathes, and the other 5 are located above two workbenches.
    My shed has a long L shape and I usually work in either one end or the other.
    I have the lights on 3 switches so I'm able to work quite well just using the lights in the area I need.

    In your machining area, you need enough light to read the scales on the machines, and measure components -- but you might do this with a spot source rather than area lighting. The decision is up to you.
    For close up soldering/electrical work I've been using an LED spot, and I even have an LED spot in the TS blade guard.
    whole2.jpg

    There are 3 compact fluorescents left in the shed, 2 in the ceiling of the fume hood/welding booth and one in the DP, and their replacement with LEDs are on the todo list.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #144
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    Aaa

  11. #145
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    Isolation Switch

    I want to have an isolation switch added so when I change blades I not risk an accidental start.

    My question what difference is there between these two switches?

    s-l1600-2.jpg s-l1600.jpg



    Would this set up be good / safe?

    With the isolation switch switched OFF and the rotary cam switch to OFF what chance would I have an accidental start?



  12. #146
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    Aug 2007
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    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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    This is the lockout switch on my SawStop. I think either of the ones you show will be fine.

    Pete
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    Isolation Switch

    I want to have an isolation switch added so when I change blades I not risk an accidental start.

    My question what difference is there between these two switches?

    s-l1600-2.jpg s-l1600.jpg
    Photos don't say much - we'd need to see the specs

    Would this set up be good / safe?

    With the isolation switch switched OFF and the rotary cam switch to OFF what chance would I have an accidental start?
    Have you already got a wall switch?
    If so the first switch in your diagram above is unnecessary as the rotary switch zero position should act as an isolation switch to the 3 way outlets.

    The machines will have EM switches on them which will prevent a restart anyway.

  14. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    the rotary switch zero position should act as an isolation switch to the 3 way outlets.
    Okay I will just stick with the rotary switch I a waiting for it come from eBay. Then the electrician can go to work.

  15. #149
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    Okay this morning the electrician came to complete the wiring of my 20amp circuit. It looks cool. We replaced the cable that came with the plugs because the electrician felt they were a little light weight. We had planned to install the rotary cam switch, however it seems to have gotten lost in the great postal void. The electrician also suggested that when I move out, I should get him to rip out the 20 amp circuit, because the heavy duty 4.5mm cable costs $6 a meter and its over 30 meters long. So it worth taking with me when I leave.

    IMG_5321.jpg IMG_5322.jpg IMG_5326.jpg

    You may notice that the above wall is very clean, that is because I stripped off the pealing paint. Filled in all the dings and scratches, sanded it, Applied a primer, sanded again and applied two coats of pale paint. It makes things a touch brighter. Still need to apply one or two more coats to get a perfect surface.

    I am told that my LED lights should appear Monday / Tuesday.

    I am also told that my bandsaw, combo & dust extractor will be ready by the 23rd of this month. 9 days and counting.

    Using the diagram we came up with I drew the position of all the machines on the floor using chalk, regrettable I could not photograph the chalk lines.

    Through the chalk lines it became clear that I needed to move the workbench, because the planed position of the workbench would not work with the sliding tablesaw. So I moved workbench in front of the window. This feels brighter even with the frosted glass, but it puts me miles away from my tool cabinets. I will have to move the cabinets closer to side the bench. I would have preferred them behind me but that is just not going to happen. But first I need to get rid of a mates projects that I am storing.

    IMG_5323.jpg IMG_5324.jpg

    You can see how bad the lighting is in the workshop. Also how useless the window is, like a "dick on an old man" or "tits on a bull" .


    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #150
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Peoples Republic of Bryn
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    393

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    You must be itching to get those new machines, and that 20amp plug set up does looks awesome


    Those LED light when you get them installed will make a huge difference.

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