Thread: Workshop Layout Any Ideas Suggestions

Your last drawing looks pretty good. You can always twist the bench diagonally too. I don't think you need to move the thicky.

Originally Posted by richmond68

An over/under planer thicknesser feeds from opposite directions, so you have to allow the space to feed in thicknesser mode which is lower.

Well yes, that is the case, BUT any piece of timber being fed into either end (i.e. thicky or jointer) still requires the same distance for out feed, so it kinda happens ipso facto by default anyway.

For pieces longer than around a metre you just have to roll the router out of the way. You may well find that the BS doesn't have to be moved because of its much higher table.

The TS may be easy enough to move forward (without wheels) for wider jobs. I can slide my 350kg thicky/jointer 90° against the roll of the wheels without too much trouble - as long as there isn't too much sawdust on the floor and I don't have slippery soled shoes on.

A diagonal workbench will probably offer enough room for these sorts of manoeuvres, I should think.

There is no doubt at all that the layout will change once you have the machines in there to play with. You can do as many diagrams as you have the patience for, but none of them will end up being like the actual layout in practise.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

I am now considering ducting for dust extraction.

Since I rent I cannot hang ducting from the ceiling would it be feasible to run 150mm diameter PVC pipe on the floor between the machines and the wall.

Have you spoken to your landlord about upgrading the power supply to the garage?

This would seem to be a potential show stopper. At the same time you get their approval for the power upgrade you might as well ask about hanging stuff off the walls of the garage and/or ceiling. The landlord might be OK with you, at the end of the lease, leaving storage shelves on the walls. They may also be OK with cup hooks attached to the roof battens. (Cup hooks, or eye hooks, would allow you to sling the ducting from the ceiling.)
The potential trip hazard represented by a floor run of 150 mm piping would really concern me.

Originally Posted by ian

The potential trip hazard represented by a floor run of 150 mm piping would really concern me.

It's less of a risk when it's up against a wall but it may mean machines cannot be then pushed up hard against walls so they pole out further into the shed and get in the way.

In my old shed I had some ducting running along the tops of benches along walls but I would not do that again as it took up too much room.

OKAY - I have asked the owner about the 20amp circuit. If they say no I will have to find a new home.

Now as much as I appreciate all the advice it seems that I will be unable to implement most of them.

Modifying or altering the machine without the express written agreement of the manufacturer shall render the warranty null and void.

All three machines will come with 120mm dust ports and I will not void my warrant for any reason by modifying machines.

Secondly I cannot place the dust extractor outside. My back yard is just dirt/mud not pavement/concrete. And I cannot build 2.5+ meter x 1+ meter x 1+ meter enclosure to store the dusty outside.

So I will just have to keep it indoors just by the rear door and I will have to live with it.

I am still looking at dust extractor options - I had a look at Timbecon 2HP Industrial Dust Extractor today it seems to be a okay machine. However I am looking if I can get a discount on a dust extractor from my main machine seller.

I had a feel inside the flexible ducting Timbecon, not very smooth, you can feel the ridges inside. So I will not be getting their option.

The machine manufacturer manual states that each machine should be a minimum of 500mm from the wall and I have incorporated it into my layout.

This has constricted my free space EVEN more.

I have also incorporated fore and aft distance for indeed and out feed operations.

This has constricted my free space EVEN more.

I am trying to limit my initial expenses and I have opted not to included the mobility kit as part of my machine purchase, so in the short term the machines will be fixed and stationery.

So this is what I am planning.

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At a very minimum you should consider the following
Build a noise reducing air tight box around the DC (with a suitable door way that allows you to empty and clean etc) and attach a 150 mm flexy to it that takes it though the door way and around the corner at ground level to a length of ~3m f 150 mm PVC ducting that vent half way down the middle of the RHS wall.
That PVC does not have to be permanent it could be stored inside the shed and put down outside when required.

BTW , the manufacturers recommendation of keeping machinery 500 mm from the wall does not have any sort of meaningful physical basis especially if the machines are on wheels and stored temporarily against walls.
I'd put the TS and BS near the double garage door so that you can open up the door and use the external space if you need it.

Cheers Bob

Good idea regarding the box.

So the flex hose > PVC just exits the bottom of the box on the ground - I assume this is to allow the fine dust an escape route.

I cannot run the PVC pipe to the right - the house is that way. But I can run it to the left a dead zone.

Unfortunately the double garage door leads to a steep inclined driveway near 35º my TS would end up in the street.

Originally Posted by BobL

At a very minimum you should consider the following
Build a noise reducing air tight box around the DC (with a suitable door way that allows you to empty and clean etc) and attach a 150 mm flexy to it that takes it though the door way and around the corner at ground level to a length of ~3m f 150 mm PVC ducting that vent half way down the middle of the RHS wall.
That PVC does not have to be permanent it could be stored inside the shed and put down outside when required.

BTW , the manufacturers recommendation of keeping machinery 500 mm from the wall does not have any sort of meaningful physical basis especially if the machines are on wheels and stored temporarily against walls.
I'd put the TS and BS near the double garage door so that you can open up the door and use the external space if you need it.

In that last diagram I reckon you could back-to-back the tool cabinets (rotating them 90°) and move them up towards the sharpening station (because you don't need too much access to the side of the station and only a narrow galley to get to the cabinet). That would allow you to move the router over to the left wall, as it's home when not in use, and then you could twist the workbench to get a decent amount of room in the middle of the whole space.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Good idea regarding the box.

It will really help with the noise too.

So the flex hose > PVC just exits the bottom of the box on the ground - I assume this is to allow the fine dust an escape route.

yep

I cannot run the PVC pipe to the right - the house is that way. But I can run it to the left a dead zone.

OK

Unfortunately the double garage door leads to a steep inclined driveway near 35º my TS would end up in the street.

I'm not saying to move the TS outside but lifting the garage door would allow a 2.4 m long piece of timber somewhere to go on the outfeed rather than try and contain it all in the shed.
You'd only do this when ripping long pieces, for cross cutting leave the door closed.

It looks like a good idea, I gained almost 500 mm

Screen Shot 2017-03-25 at 8.36.30 PM.jpg

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

That would allow you to move the router over to the left wall (where the second cabinet used to be), as it's home when not in use

So then you twist the bench diagonal and there'll be lots of space around it.

Screen Shot 2017-03-25 at 10.50.32 PM.png

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Unfortunately the double garage door leads to a steep inclined driveway near 35º my TS would end up in the street.

surely you are exaggerating just a little?

35° represents a 70% grade which would be a challenge to walk up (or down) when wet and, if you will forgive me for not pulling out the books, I'm pretty certain that you can't drive a car over the transition between a 70% grade and a level garage floor.

hyperbole - but near enough

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

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Hi Thumbsucker
I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve with this latest layout.

From here it looks like a very inefficient use of the available space. The size of your table saw suggests an emphasis on power tool use, while the placement of the work bench suggest a predominately hand tool shop.

IMO, the space between your tool cabinets and the bench is far too great. Ideally, all your most used tools should be no more than a single step away from your work. Even better would be the ability to reach the most used tools without moving your feet or twisting your torso.


Secondly, it is unclear to me what the work flow within your shop would be.

Assuming that you are purchasing wood as you need it, timber would enter the shop through the roller door and then
1. be placed on saw horses or a bench for sorting, grading and the marking out of components.
2. next it would be docked to rough length (using a hand held circular saw or mitre swa
3. ripped to rough width and/or resawn (using the band saw)
4. run over the jointer and through the thicky to get it to close to final dimensions
5. stickered for a few days to allow components to acclimitise
6. cut / thicknessed etc to final dimensions
7. start the build

Of course, if you can store timber for future projects, you would need to add that storage and access to it to your layout.


The dusty.
Would it be possible to include a door and attached shroud to the enclosure so that when opened the shroud connects the dusty to outside while sealing the doorway against the re-entry of teh fine dust?


You will probably need to work with the main garage door partly open to source air to make up for that exhausted by the dusty.

although not mentioned in this thread, BobL has elsewhere commented on the efficiency (and low running costs) of squirrel cage fans. Perhaps you could incorporate one in a false door that covers the passage door opening?