Alrighty, im trying to replicate this for my year 12 major project:

See how the inside of the project is all curved, aswell as the outside, this is what im curious about. The outside is easy to curve, plenty of room to grab a plane and curve it to my liking.

BUT THE INSIDE, as you can see, isnt soo easy. Im making a template shape for the project, as its made out of layers, and due to time, I am making the layers all the same shape. SO the C shape of the project will be there, but the curving wont yet.

How can I curve the inside to look like it does in the attached pictures in a time efficient way? Not that I dont have time, but I want to make sure I dont run overtime on the project.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.




Oh and heres the template for anyone who wants to see it. The scribble is just removing my name and the people in the background.

anyone?

At a guess, I'd say that four or five templates have been used to cut slabs of timber down to the gradually narrowing shape, these have been glued together, then carved to final shape possibly using a chainsaw followed by something like an arbortech carver (Industrial Woodcarver) Well, something like that - or carved out on a CNC router....

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Man Im so glad you posted..that woodcarver looks like EXACTLY the thing i need

my guess is that the original has been made by eye using something like an arbortech carver -- in skilled hands, the basic shaping would go very quickly no need for a chain saw
construction is probably layers of timber glued together -- the unit is probably hollow to reduce weight
your template is really only for shaping the solid wood top layer.

In your case I'm guessing an arbortech grinder may not be an option -- they spray chips everywhere

The inside curves could be shaped by hand using a combination of firmer gouges, spoke shaves and a compass plane -- effective but probably too time consuming

a belt sander might come close -- but again hand shaping a 3D object with a belt sander is not one for the faint hearted

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regards from Sydney

ian

Nah chips spraying everywhere isnt a issue, we got room. Im using the template for the entire project, so it will all be the size of the top layer, then the angle grinder will be used to bring it down. We have one at my school, I just gotta do the training n etc.

Yep as the guys have said, looks carved from here, althought the photo is a little hard to read. As Splinter has said I'd start with a big block of wood, trim to rough shape with the chainsaw, then the arbortech, course sander (the one with the metal nuggety things) , planes and spokeshaves and finish off with the sander. Looks like a lot of fun.

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www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au

A good edge takes a little sweat!!

If you are making this up in layers can you not use a router to trim each layer to the template. Providing you have some register pins to endure accurate alignment it should be ok.

Then it is a simple matter of lots of sand paper and hard work.

A few years ago in one of the uk woodwork magazines, there was an article on a bench with similar curves. The maker (commercial) ground scrapers to the very tight curves and used those.

Imma flushcut it to the template [each layer] then hopefully use the arbotech to remove the bulk of the wood needed to be removed for the curve. Then plane/sand to finish the curse.

Any tips for the top piece above the glass fellas?

It is all about templates to fit the glass

For the top bit, make a template for the size of the opening and attach it firmly (couple of screws and or double side tape) and rout it to shape with pattern following bit (bearing next to the router). Finally change to a rebate bit and choose a bearing that will give you the overlap you want.

Take a piece of cardboard and rub the edge to show where the rebate finishes, Attach it to 3mm mdf and trim so it exactly fits in then off to the glass merchants with your pattern.

I actually prefer to remove as muc wood as I can with a Forstner bit before using the router. Less work for the router, bits last longer and much safer.

As for the rest, I agree with the others, multiple layers glued together, Just cut each layer a little larger or smaller than the previous one then lots of sanding. A good disk sander will help on inside curves.

Just be aware that at your level there are quite stringent safety rules...I don't think your school would let you use an arbotech carver and could even be an issue with the router (should be ok if you are using bearing bits but check first

Chipman

All layers will be the same shape, but will be shaped with the angle grinder into the curve.

Very good tips fellas, much appreciated and keep them coming!

Sky you have me concerned.

Standard angle grinder training is unlikely to include using the grinder as a wood carving tool.
If you are planning on using the arbotech wood carver disks, I expect that one of the teachers at your school will need to be certified on the tool before you can be trained.
Has the school acquired a woodcarver kit to fit to their angle grinder?

Next week is week 5, of Term 1. Is there enough time remaining to achieve this training and complete the project? Has your school even purchased the woodcarver kit?

Have you read all you can find about using the wood carver?

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regards from Sydney

ian

I spoke with my teachers, they have a wood carving disc [what the arbotech would do] so id imagine if they have it, they are trained in it. Ive begun my project last year, and yes there is enough time. Id have the training of course, but id be willing to give up lunchtimes n etc to do that to save time.

Great to hear that Sky

Just remember that along with the wood carver disk, you will also need the shroud so the chips don't get thrown into your face.

you may also like to read some of what is on this page Pro-4 Woodcarver

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regards from Sydney

ian