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  1. #16
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    27,756

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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    Hi BobL.
    Each piece of wood is 300mm long
    In that case I would use a lathe.

    Make a cradle that holds the wood at the right height so that the cradle carries the wood slides along the line of the spindle.

    Put a 13.5 MT bit (yes they come in 13.5 size but you will need MT adapter(s) to suit) in the headstock and push the cradle carrying the wood up to the bit and push on the tail stock to drive the wood onto the turning bit. If it gets ornery you can lock the tail stock and use the tail stock wheel.
    You will have to clear sawdust but that will be just sliding the wood back and forth into/out of the bit.

    I have done this several times and it works really we;;.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    7,696

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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    Hi Chris. That's exactly the set up I have been using without the fancy sliding carriage.
    It's basically an open guide ( horiz and vert ). I apply hand pressure to the timber piece down and across
    then push it onto the spinning bit.
    I am after a knife through butter bit as an alternative the the HSS bit I am currently using.
    It will be lovely to drop the 300mm section of wood into a contraption that will hold it in place
    while two drills on rams come in from opposite ends.
    For now it's me pushing wood onto a drill bit.
    In that case two drills on carriages and the timber clamped, use levers to push the drills and both ends could be done at the same time. You could use rails like this sized to suit for the drill carriages

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-Set-SB...72.m2749.l2649

    The linked ones are most probably too big but there are smaller ones on Ebay.
    CHRIS

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    Hi Elanjacobs.
    I thought a Brad bit had a 'screw' point. I couldn't see how this could be
    created on a standard drill bit.
    The screw point is on augers, brad point just has a plain point in the middle for guidance and sharp corners to prevent tearing around the hole.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

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    The 'contraption' was me dreaming. For now it's me doing grunt work.
    Those rail systems are the bee's knees though. You don't have any links to
    slow moving hydraulic rams do you ?

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

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    Thank you for the clarification Elanjacobs.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    3,330

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    Putting ‘how to drill into endgrain with ease’ into Google comes up with this video of a guy drilling endgrain with a Colt Maxicut Forster bit.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PF08Cw0RJFw

    Looks Ok to me.
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    The 'contraption' was me dreaming. For now it's me doing grunt work.
    Those rail systems are the bee's knees though. You don't have any links to
    slow moving hydraulic rams do you ?
    It would be way too slow and complicated for me if I was doing it but if you want to power the carriages I would use air rams and control them electrically with press to actuate switches. I know it can be done but it is above my knowledge base. Ebay is your friend when it comes to stuff like this

    https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...nders&_sacat=0
    CHRIS

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
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    31

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    Thanks Chris.
    It can take me years to find what I need simply because I don't know what they are called.
    Thanks for the clues.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

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    I guess I was asking the wrong questions of Google
    Have book marked Colt. Thanks Arron.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

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    Colt brad points are simply the very best bits I've ever used - ever.

    I love them.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    Termalert, if you want production speed I think cylinders will not be the answer especially if you have to back out of the hole to clear the drill of debris. Keeping it simple and hand feeding it should ultimately prove quicker and if the carriages are pushed by levers not much effort. If you have a big compressor and don't mind noise air drills will also be better as they don't burn out if fed a few drops of oil every day.
    CHRIS

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
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    Looks like it's a Colt's bit and hopefully less of my elbow grease.
    Fancy stuff will have to wait. Given the inconsistencies of wood grain
    I am not entirely sure any form of ram would do it. Shame I am not
    using Craftwood but termites are not interested in it at all.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    It isn't as deep as what you are doing Termalert, but my end grain work is into handles (Ø 20) and axles for carts (Ø8 in a 40x40). The hole is 60mm deep and I use a jig and drill press. There are 40 handles to do at a time. The Colt bit chews through them exactly and perfectly every time.

    Previously I was using the Freud bits, but the Colts are much better (IMO).

    At first, it was hard work and the bit was always hot, the answer is to use a "BobL chute". I stole his drum sander idea and made a bit of a jacket for the dust extractors hose that can be positioned right up to the work (while letting you see it). It sucks every skerrick of dust out of the bore-hole and keeps it clean during the entire drilling. The bit is cold to touch afterwards and as the swarf (?) is constantly pulled out I believe the hole is much neater.

    If you watch that video above, you can see a major part of the dudes problem is the swarf is jamming up the bit. With side grain the cuttings are curly, but endgrain is but dust and stringy bits!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

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    Thanks woodpixel.
    To be clear, are you using the Forstner bit ?

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    Thanks woodpixel.
    To be clear, are you using the Forstner bit ?
    Yes. They were sent to me by FenceFurniture. They are Ø5mm to Ø20mm in 0.5mm increments. I bought duplicates in the 5 to 10mm range as I thought Id go through them pretty fast, but I've been wrong on that count!

    These pictures show essentially what Im talking about with dust collection. I think the first is best as the sideways action of the air would scour the hole (obviously the hose is on one end). The second is an excellent way of guiding it right to where you need it (previously i relied on occy-straps and much cursing to get it right). Mine is half-way between 2 and 3... Its like 2 but the end is ground into a curve like 3 so the pipe can go right up to the bit.... its rough as guts, but works very well.

    1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg

    edit (clarity): FenceFurniture is a forumite. These pix are not mine, I was just using them to show what I did that is similar.

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