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  1. #1
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    Default Drilling a 13.5mm hole into end grain.

    I currently have a jig set up using a mounted power drill with a 13.5mm
    HSS twist drill bit. It's real grunt work with me pushing 75mm x 35mm
    soft wood to drill a hole about 150mm deep along the grain.
    I have tried a Daredevil speed bore spade bit but had to fight like hell to stop
    it at a certain depth. A brilliant bit for drilling 'through' a timber piece
    but not suitable for my application.
    Is there a more suitable type or do all speed bore types just fight you
    to keep going ?
    Drill presses are no good because one with a suitable spindle travel
    would break the bank.
    Maybe I am getting older but 10 years ago I was using a cobalt bit
    ( golden coloured ) and it was knife through butter stuff.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
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    Default

    Hi, what's wrong with using an ordinary Drill Press, or are the pieces too long to fit under it??
    If they'll fit, drill down as far as you can go, then put a packing block under it to lift it up, repeat till you've got your 150 mm deep hole.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Default

    Try drilling a 1/4" pilot hole first.

  5. #4
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    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Two methods:

    First, use these drill bit collars: https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-dr...-pack_p6325040

    Second, mount the bit in the drill. Measure how long it is. Drill through a regular bit of wood with that bit, say a bit of pine thats 12mm thick (or a thicker piece if you need a bigger spacer). Remount the bit and put the block over it, so it sticks out only the required depth. Use the block as your super-sized stop block.

    Also, do as bob says, drill a pilot hole.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
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    Default

    Thanks for the input good people.
    This is to be a commercial process so first and foremost the process must be
    economical with time.
    Eventually two horizontal rams ( coming in from each end of a 300mm length of wood )
    will be used but that's many $$$$'s away.
    A drill press using 2 steps would eat up too much time.
    Drill bit collars are a great idea for limiting depth as I don't think a slightly loose
    collar ( in this case a 16mm collar on a 13.5mm bit ) will create too much of an eccentric wobble.
    The process is similar to drilling a hole into end grain for a dowel.
    My present method is fine as an interim measure but I need a drill bit that is better suited.
    So, if you had to drill a 13.5mm diam hole into the end of a piece of stud timber to a depth
    of 150mm, what type of drill bit would you opt for ?
    I am considering a 13.5mm Brad Point because it doesn't appear to have the large drilling nose
    of a Speed Bore. As they are recommended for dowel holes I don't think they will put up too much
    of a fight when you limit the depth.
    Has anyone had any experience with the Irwin Speedbor Auger or Suttons Auger ?
    Irwin is a good throw away bit but Suttons are not throw away $60.00 just to gain a paper weight.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    I am considering a 13.5mm Brad Point because it doesn't appear to have the large drilling nose
    of a Speed Bore. As they are recommended for dowel holes I don't think they will put up too much
    of a fight when you limit the depth.
    Resharpen the 13.5 mm HSS twist drill as a brad point. Try to get hold of one of the old horizontal dowel drilling machines that used to be on combination saw/buzzer machines. Used ones go for very small $$.

  8. #7
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    Mar 2018
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    GOSFORD NSW
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    Default

    Not entirely sure how to convert a normal HHS bit into a brad point without
    some fancy machining. Easier to buy one ready made ready made if I find
    it may be suitable.
    Not sure if any machine would do a 150mm hole without modification but
    will investigate further. A friend once developed a horizontal drill with a
    hydraulic ram but that was 20 years ago. He may have kept it as a memento
    in a corner of his factory.
    Thanks for all the input so far.

  9. #8
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    Not entirely sure how to convert a normal HHS bit into a brad point without
    some fancy machining. There are people on here who can probably do that for you

    Easier to buy one ready made ready made if I find It's the .5 part of the 13.5 that is the problem. Colt make a 13mm and a 14mm Brad Point in HSS, but not a 13.5mm. There are few better Brad Points on the market than Colt. Referring to the point above re converting a twist to Brad - the 13.5mm may still be a stumbling block unless you spend significant $$.


    Not sure if any machine would do a 150mm hole without modification but
    will investigate further.
    Once you have gone in a reasonable distance (say 70-80mm) then you can take it out of the Drill Press and do the rest with a battery (or 240v) drill. With a little practice you should be able to get good holes I reckon.

    The "gold" Cobalt you refer to sounds like a TiNi coated drill which is unlikely to be Cobalt (assuming that the coating is never breached, Cobalt would be a waste of inclusion in the HSS)
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  10. #9
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    Jun 2005
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    As this is a commercial process it needs some jigging so there is no doubt that it has been done correctly. I would fasten a drill to a base plate, then I would build a sliding carriage with suitable reference marks or maybe stops to limit it to the needed travel. The drill bit has to be inserted the same distance in the chuck each time it is removed so the references or stops are still the same. Put the timber in the jig and push it onto the drill bit, back to front to what is normally done but most probably the best way. The whole lot could be fastened to one base plate so all the relationships don't change.
    CHRIS

  11. #10
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    Default

    How long are the pieces of wood you are drilling the holes into?

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by TERMALERT View Post
    Not entirely sure how to convert a normal HHS bit into a brad point without some fancy machining.
    No fancy machining required, just a bench grinder and being taught the skill. Any saw sharpening service should be able to do it quite easily. I'll do it if you want to send it down to Melbourne.

  13. #12
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    Hi Chris. That's exactly the set up I have been using without the fancy sliding carriage.
    It's basically an open guide ( horiz and vert ). I apply hand pressure to the timber piece down and across
    then push it onto the spinning bit.
    I am after a knife through butter bit as an alternative the the HSS bit I am currently using.
    It will be lovely to drop the 300mm section of wood into a contraption that will hold it in place
    while two drills on rams come in from opposite ends.
    For now it's me pushing wood onto a drill bit.

  14. #13
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    Default

    Hi BobL.
    Each piece of wood is 300mm long

  15. #14
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    Hi FenceFurniture.
    This could be achieved as you have suggested but 'time' is the killer here.
    It needs to be done in one fast action.
    It's like a paper clip in an office.
    Starts of costing 5 cents but once it's handled at $20 per hour....

  16. #15
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    GOSFORD NSW
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    Default

    Hi Elanjacobs.
    I thought a Brad bit had a 'screw' point. I couldn't see how this could be
    created on a standard drill bit.

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