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  1. #1
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    Default Consistent supply of 4x2 hardwood! (blackbutt)

    Hey guys, I have a readily available supply of recycled hardwood - mostly 4x2's. Before I commit myself with the timber I wanted to know if anyone would be genuinely interested in buying some. I've checked out the general pricing for these, and I would place at around $3-4.50, depending on whether or not I de-nail the lot. Is this a fair price? Are many people actually keen on buying recycled 4x2 hardwood? This wouldn't be a one off gumtree thing either, I have a fairly continuous supply of this timber! I'm keen to hear your opinions! Anyone from the Illawarra let me know your thoughts as well, since this is where I'll be operating from. Thanks!

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  3. #2
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    Hi Jaff,
    I would be interested but haven't considered a price yet. I've been trialling a range of furniture made from recycled material and denailed blackbutt, holes 'n all, would be ideal. Wollongong is very handy for me.
    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  4. #3
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    I absolutely adore recycled hardwood's.

    The trick, if there is one, is a VERY good hand held metal detector and a monster rare earth magnet. You wave this over any suspicious holes, even the metal detected negatives, the very big magnet gives your hand a little tug every time! ah-ha! Disaster averted.

    The big ones are very cheap on aliexpress. I've two that are 2cm cubes. Super Danger Will Robinson, but awesome at detected hidden lurgies. Absolutely ferrous-cious.

    The price is good... $3 is better

  5. #4
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    Hey Fletty, how many meters would you be interested in? I'm curious because I'm considering restricting orders to a minimum of 50m, so I can shift the timber quickly, and also provide cheaper prices for bulk lots. Would you find this restrictive/annoying? I'm sure this would suit guys pumping out furniture on a regular basis, but I also want to be accommodating for the hobbyist and everyone else in between!

    Also, would you prefer to pay a bit more for de-nailed, or less to do the work yourself? I know from experience when I've bought "de-nailed", i've clipped some nails! So the extra expense wasn't worth it. If I was to do it, I would definitely make sure there were none.

    Evanism, why didn't I look on aliexpress for rare earth magnets before!? The only ones I could find locally were from an electronics store. They were $25 for 6 and only 5mm in diameter! These ones on aliexpress are monsters for half the price! I asked the guys at gasweld about metal detectors and its effectiveness, let's say his response was.. negative. I think I'll still buy one though.

  6. #5
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    To be specific, I assume you are talking $3 per lineal metre (un-denailed)?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  7. #6
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    FenceFurniture, I still have to figure out pricing, so it might be around that price per lineal meter. This all depends on how many lineal meters you would want though. Obviously 10 lineal meters will be a little more expensive per lineal meter than 100. Pricing will increase on top of this if I decided to de-nail.

    In saying this, would you prefer cheaper, un-denailed timber, or more expensive, denailed timber?

  8. #7
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    I am not in the market for hardwood in the quantities that you would like to sell.

    However, if I had to buy and as a hobbyist, I would prefer timber with nails so that I could be assured that any de-nailing I did would not leave any unforeseen surprises.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaff View Post
    FenceFurniture, I still have to figure out pricing, so it might be around that price per lineal meter. This all depends on how many lineal meters you would want though. Obviously 10 lineal meters will be a little more expensive per lineal meter than 100. Pricing will increase on top of this if I decided to de-nail.

    In saying this, would you prefer cheaper, un-denailed timber, or more expensive, denailed timber?
    I've got me a nail kicker, and it kicks butt, so, ahem, I reckon it'll kick your be ok with your timber
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  10. #9
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    I have used recycled 4x2 before and would do again, but I'm too far away tho for this lot. The $3/m is not too bad.
    Hi Brett, Does that denailer punch the nail through as opposed to pulling it out? It looks pretty good.



    Pete

  11. #10
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    Haha, I reckon your right about that! But yeah, I think cheap and cheerful is best for everyone! I'll let you guys de-nail to ensure it's done properly though. Anyway, I'm keen to get this rolling in the next few months. I'll update on availability, price etc, etc soon. Cheers guys!

  12. #11
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    Cheers for the feedback Pete!

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by pjt View Post
    Hi Brett, Does that denailer punch the nail through as opposed to pulling it out? It looks pretty good.
    Hi Pete

    It's a cracker actually, but not cheap. You can adjust the punching mechanism to (and this is from memory) 1/8", 3/8" 3/4". The low setting is to punch nails just below the surface. When it's on 3/4" you put the sleeve over the pointy end of the nail, and if it's bent then use that to straighten it, and blow it out head first (i.e. like pulling a nail out). You can go the other way if necessary and just keep punching the nail through, but that will cause blowout depending on the timber (Cypress is BAD for it). To reduce the blowout a sacrificial piece with a nail head sized hole works reasonably well (but is tricky to register over the hole because you can't see). A piece of steel with a hole would be even cleaner, but again rego is difficult, and possibly more problematic with steel (preventing the head from moving).

    The first time I used it was on a skew nail through Douglas Fir, and the nail was oriented (not deliberately) to be angled towards the sheet metal wall of the bench:

    "PHUTT DING!" followed by a shout of laughter and foraging for the nail. It works!

    Have successfully pushed out hundreds and hundreds of nails from 60 year old very nasty hardwood (much of it red). They didn't always come right out (rusty) and then there was some easy work with a Jimmy Bar to remove them. Then run around the yard with a magnetic pick up to get all the flyers. Best thing to do is hold the timber over a bucket with some shavings in it (to stop the nails bouncing out). As the bucket fills the contents tends to stop the nails bouncing out.

    It came with a 4mm head (perfect for 3" nails, and I also got a 6mm head.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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  14. #13
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    We are going to need a demo at the next GTG.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    We are going to need a demo at the next GTG.
    No worries. Bring along a butt to be kicked and I'll sort it out.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Hi Pete

    It's a cracker actually, but not cheap. You can adjust the punching mechanism to (and this is from memory) 1/8", 3/8" 3/4". The low setting is to punch nails just below the surface. When it's on 3/4" you put the sleeve over the pointy end of the nail, and if it's bent then use that to straighten it, and blow it out head first (i.e. like pulling a nail out). You can go the other way if necessary and just keep punching the nail through, but that will cause blowout depending on the timber (Cypress is BAD for it). To reduce the blowout a sacrificial piece with a nail head sized hole works reasonably well (but is tricky to register over the hole because you can't see). A piece of steel with a hole would be even cleaner, but again rego is difficult, and possibly more problematic with steel (preventing the head from moving).

    The first time I used it was on a skew nail through Douglas Fir, and the nail was oriented (not deliberately) to be angled towards the sheet metal wall of the bench:

    "PHUTT DING!" followed by a shout of laughter and foraging for the nail. It works!

    Have successfully pushed out hundreds and hundreds of nails from 60 year old very nasty hardwood (much of it red). They didn't always come right out (rusty) and then there was some easy work with a Jimmy Bar to remove them. Then run around the yard with a magnetic pick up to get all the flyers. Best thing to do is hold the timber over a bucket with some shavings in it (to stop the nails bouncing out). As the bucket fills the contents tends to stop the nails bouncing out.

    It came with a 4mm head (perfect for 3" nails, and I also got a 6mm head.
    Cheers Brett,
    Certainly sounds like it's the goods. Could have done with it more than once or twice.


    Pete

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