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Thread: Forge
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11th May 2005, 10:26 PM #16
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11th May 2005 10:26 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th May 2005, 10:33 PM #17
Thanks Bob, that makes sense now. Though my dictionaries do define annealing as hardening.
I think the no-no I was thinking of regarding chisel sharpening was heating the edges to red hot..no doubt this would soften them. I dont think I would deliberately want to make them harder, and more brittle, by quenching them though. Best practice might be to sharpen carefully so they dont get too hot. What do you reckon?Rusty
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11th May 2005, 10:35 PM #18
I was taught to quench them often while grinding thus keeping them cool.
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11th May 2005, 10:37 PM #19
Yeah, spot on...now it's all coming back to me! Thanks Bob.
Rusty
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15th May 2005, 06:45 PM #20Senior Member
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Originally Posted by JB
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15th May 2005, 09:02 PM #21
Sorry no pics, but the forge was as I've described it: just a briquette fire, in a bbq or on the ground, with me pointing a blower (vacuum cleaner on blow) at it from about 2' away.
Briquettes ae not recommended by experts, and for safety have a couple of full buckets of water on hand.Rusty
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15th May 2005, 11:36 PM #22New Member
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Forge
I am new to this forum but found this thread very interesting and had to reply. I am in the process of making a small forge for myself as I wish to do some Blacksmithing. The forge I am making should be completed spending under $50. I picked up a truck brake drum for free, (370mm Dia x 150mm H) put a plate in it with slots for air to flow. Bolt the drum to 100mm dia x 400 long tube that has flange at the end. This needs to have a cap at the end to catch the ash and seal the air flow. You can attach a small car heater blower to the side of the 100mm tube, but I am going to try and use my compressor on low pressure with a small ball valve to control the air flow. Put this on a stand and away you go. Just having some problems getting my hands on a anvil or a anvil shaped object, but I am patient...
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16th May 2005, 01:03 AM #23Member
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Originally Posted by Metaphor
By coincidence I also saw a couple of anvils in a second hand joint today. They wanted over $400 for them. Got be dreaming I thought.
John
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16th May 2005, 01:13 AM #24GOLD MEMBER
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Metaphore
You might be better with the car heater than a compressor. It is the volume of air (oxygen) that kicks it along.
Depending on what you are doing any large (heavy) chunk of metal will substitute for an anvil. I've seen railway iron locked down to a big stump and it was satisfactory. It even had a horn shaped into it. The tip is to lock it down because you do not want to be juggling with anything when you have a red hot poker in your tongs.
Traditional anvils will be expensive and in high demand but keep your eyes out for a new Asian/Indain anvil as they are reasonably priced. A bit broader and flatter in the horn but still quite usable.Cheers,
Rod
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18th May 2005, 10:46 PM #25New Member
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Originally Posted by rodm
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18th May 2005, 11:34 PM #26GOLD MEMBER
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I appreciate your approach and venturing into a new area it is not wise to invest large amounts.
Do a search on ebay for anvil and you might be pleasantly surprised.
Try this for a small anvil and the freight shouldn't scare you too much either.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....381959972&rd=1Cheers,
Rod
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20th May 2005, 12:03 AM #27
I've seen a compressor used in a forge for air flow, which seemed to work OK, I would imagine the regulator would be set to get the air pressure as low as possible, or would you just choke off air supply a bit and let the reduced flow do the job?. Railway iron certainly works as an anvil, a bit crude but probably fine to learn on.
JohnC
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21st May 2005, 07:49 PM #28
The idea of tempering is to reduce the brittleness of the steel while retaining some of the hardness. A good way to explain this is a diamond, a diamond is very hard but if you hit it with a hammer it would shatter due to fact that it is extremely brittle.
The definition of tough is being able to absorbe the shock from a force/blow.
This only happens if the steel in mention is carbon steel, ordinary mild steel wont harden after quenching.
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21st May 2005, 07:55 PM #29
JB do a search fot 'the village smithy' this bloke is located at Logan/Logan village on the south side. He has a website. He also sells associated item including coke and second hand forges. Also teaches during weekend courses. www.villagesmith.com.au Allan and Hellen Ball i think their names are.