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Thread: Building Serenity
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6th August 2015, 11:48 AM #1
Building Serenity
Hello Good Day everyone I'm new to this forum and thought I would share my canoe (Serenity) with you
every thing was made by me in two months; the plans were on the net from a guy that built this canoe in the 40" in Redwood for $80.
I use a 2" square grid to transfer them from the computer to a templates then transferred then to my form ribs and built the strong back from 2 x 4' s and made all my own 18' strips from 3/4" decking boards. I made a makeshift steamer to bend the outer stems these are Maple along w/ the gunwales, yolk and seat frames.
Here she is,
BruceLast edited by Big Shed; 11th August 2015 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Moved to it's own thread
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6th August 2015 11:48 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th August 2015, 11:57 AM #2
Here's some more photos.
Enjoy,
Bruce
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6th August 2015, 12:03 PM #3
AND then some more photos of the build.
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6th August 2015, 12:08 PM #4
And some more yet.
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6th August 2015, 12:16 PM #5
And here's the finish,
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6th August 2015, 12:20 PM #6
The Maiden Voyage,
I hope you've all enjoyed the build as much as I did,
Bruce
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8th August 2015, 10:09 PM #7
Wow!
just Wow!Alan J
Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer
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11th August 2015, 06:19 AM #8
Thank you AJ We just got back from taking her on another trip all went very well.
I was hoping that ADMIN would have moved this post to it's own location when i got back?
I made a mistake when posting it: I thought I had started a new thread.
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11th August 2015, 10:44 AM #9Intermediate Member
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Incredibly beautiful work! Some serious hours put into that.
What kind of join did you use on the individual pieces making up the hull skin?
Im currently getting to the end of my teardrop camper project and plan on building some form of kaya or canoe when im done.
How many hours aprox did this take?
Thanks for sharing...amazing
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11th August 2015, 12:15 PM #10
dales133....I used bead & cove joints routed in the edges the strips were cut at 3/8"- 5/16" planed to 1/4" then routed one edge coved the other beaded; I used a 1/4" carbide cove bit for one side and an 1/8" round for the other side: running that side twice on each side to make it fit the 1/4" cove. It took two months about 6 hrs - 8 hrs a day. to finish her.
Thank you for your kind words.
We just got back today we had her out this past weekend: This is Greenbrier St. park MD. USA
Bruce
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11th August 2015, 12:30 PM #11Senior Member
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Absolutely superb-I'll bet you cannot help but run your hand over everytime you walk by!
Love the contrasting timbers and inlay workmanship.
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12th August 2015, 07:04 AM #12
Thank you coolrunnings: I would like to ask any of you guys that have been building boats for a long time a question; This is my first boat build ever and while doing the build I had thought about adding internal ribs.
I decided to wait and see how she did in the water first; with this boat having a flat bottom while were in the canoe the inside bottom flexes inward giving a convex bottom; there are two layers of directional 6 oz cloth on each side running in an X pattern so it is strong; but I was wondering if I could still add ribs thin enough to not add much more weight and still make it strong enough to stop this flexing inward?
Any thoughts on this and what material would be best & how wide and thick?
Bruce
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12th August 2015, 04:45 PM #13
Flexing isn't all that unusual, nor a particularly bad thing either. I suspect the flexing is because the bottom planking isn't all longitudinally oriented. Strip planking gets most all of it's stiffness from the lengthwise arrangement of the grain in each strip and the closely spaced glue lines. The thin sheathings aren't going to add much stiffness, which is what you need, so maybe a few frames if you like. If using a low frame count they're typically larger in dimension, than a similar boat with lots of frames. 3/4" square or 1"x3/4" (wide side down) will likely do and you'll want these to be hardwood or a dense softwood, such as SYP. Place them in the obvious locations, such as under the athwart supports. If the 1"x3/4" ribs seem too big, consider a few more, roughly equally spaced out inside the hull shell, say 3/4"x 1/2". It's going to be an "eyeball" thing so make up some dummies and spread them out in the hull and see how it looks. Shave them as you deem aesthetically fit.
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12th August 2015, 10:00 PM #14
Thank you PAR for your reply and your help; I like the idea about fewer ribs 1 3/4" should these be thick or around 3/8"- 1/2"? And since I've added spar varnish I would need to strip / sand off that at these locations and glue them in w/ epoxy & glass?
For aesthetics while glassing in these pieces the edges should be beveled to the deck / inside hull?
or possibly a cove so not to get air trapped in the corners under the glass?
And keeping w/ the boats look Maple was used for all the trims and it's hard; I'm just wondering if 6- 8 1/2" thick ribs would do it?
I see your in FL USA; thanks again for helping,
Bruce
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20th August 2015, 06:07 PM #15
Hey Bruce,
This is awesome, top effort, wonderful build. Very timely as I am just embarking on my first strip plank Canoe build. Great inspiration.
Cheers and happy paddling!
Roy
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