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  1. #46
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    Default

    Good stuff. From the side, I particularly like the way the purposeful forward deck line becomes a concave rear deck line as it intersects with, or passes the cockpit.

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob540 View Post
    Good stuff. From the side, I particularly like the way the purposeful forward deck line becomes a concave rear deck line as it intersects with, or passes the cockpit.

    Done for a reason Rob - sloped cockpit is a bit easier for old bones to get in
    & out of. Allows it to be kept smaller so that paddle drip lands on deck
    rather than on knees & in boat. The deck needs a bit of height, both for
    knees & toes, and to keep it drier when it gets choppy.

    Hope there was nothing else I was planning to do inside the boat.
    It's glued now. Still haven't tried the Duck Flat mixture bagging technique.
    The mixture is so stiff & the hole so small that I suspect tearing might occur
    due to pressure required to extrude the mix and force it all the way into the
    seam. A 45cent 20ml syringe does the job, although it can be a pain to load
    - ladling it in the back with an ice-cream stick.

  4. #48
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    Oct 2008
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    Good design for sensible reasons often makes for good lines! And I agree about the bag- it's terrific for peanutbutter fillets, but a small hole with a stiff mix nearly always causes messy explosions (I'm talking about epoxy here)

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Removed all clamps & pulling shims yesterday, and roughly filled the holes.

    There is quite a bit of tension in the very tips of the joint. There's also a little bit of
    tension both sides aft of the cockpit & up near the bow where the deck was splayed
    wider than the hull & had to be pulled into line. After the accident with the deck, I feel
    some urgency to reinforce the joint with glass. Family visiting from interstate starting
    tomorrow, so the urgency has to happen today...

    Boat needs to be propped with the average angle of the joint more-or-less bisected by
    the vertical. This means it leans over at greater than 90degrees. probably more like
    110 degrees or so. So a couple of stands knocked up 4 hulls ago were rescued from
    the spiders under the workbench.
    Again.
    Cut-outs modified to more-or less match the edge profile of this latest boat.
    Again.
    As you can see from the pics, the back verandah is a busy place on washing days.
    Sanding verboten !!

    Also pictured is the brush extension I assembled to get to the tips of the boat from the
    cockpit. About a 4ft length of permapine trellis lath. with a 30-ish degree chamfer on the
    end. Using this, I only have to insert head & one arm to reach the ends. Have
    "interesting" recollections of inserting head and shoulders into the fibreglass kayaks
    I made as a younger & foolisher man. Wierd dreams that night... Each boat... And
    there were a few...

    Anyway, cut a length of glass tape a little longer than the boat so that there is excess
    to wrap around the inside of the ends, and so it doesn't matter if the tape moves a little
    during wet-out. Wet-out starting from the middle, keeping it a bit "dry" so it sticks to
    the hull, resisting movement whilst wetting out towards the ends. Then came back &
    properly wetted the dry bit in the middle. Will give it a second coat later this afternoon.
    Tomorrow I'll do the second side, & mum will just have to be entertained by the performance...

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Default Help! need ideas.

    Am ready to install the end bulkheads.

    Problem... they are a loose fit & need a fair bit of filling around the edges.
    However, I can't reach them from anywhere I can see what I'm doing (the cockpit).

    Thought maybe a caulking gun of sikaflex. The rear one I can probably -just- get the
    tip of a caulking gun to, but the forward one is a clear foot away from the tip of the
    most aggressively brandished gun.

    Could possibly affix a mirror somehow behind the hatches - would be a bit of a Heath
    Robinson affair, and with my arm filling much of the hole, visibility would be limited.
    At best.

    An epoxy putty syringe taped to a stick, plunger depressed using a second stick ?
    Clamp a caulking gun to a stick & jury rig some sort of wire puller to the trigger?

    Even though no-one will ever see these once complete, I would prefer they were neat
    and use minimum possible material. There's also a 1mm pressure-relief hole in each
    to be preserved.
    Has anyone else here faced & resolved this particular conundrum ?
    cheers
    AJ

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
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    62
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    561

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    AJ, where are these bulkheads going - are they between the cockpit and the hatches or between the hatches and the extreme ends? (I know you said "end" but the small bulkhead panel shown on the first page looks to be unnecessary so I am unsure if this is what you are referring to.)
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Default

    G'day Bob
    They are going about 12 inches from each extreme end.
    Main purpose is to keep small items from disappearing out of reach into said extreme
    ends. Secondary purpose is to keep some small measure of inviolable buoyancy.
    Hatch covers may not be properly shut, grit in the seals, earthquake, pestillence, etc.
    Not essential to the basic integrity of the boat, but desireable.

    Did some mucking around this evening with a 20mm syringe on a stick. (Only thought
    of it as I was typing the earlier post.) I think I can make it work. Won't be pretty, but
    should be functional. If someone has a better idea, I'd love to hear it.

    cheers
    AJ

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    62
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    How about a flexible tube eg pvc attached to the caulking gun or syringe with the other end controlled by the tape-to-a-stick method? It would take a bit of filler just to fill up the tube but you might get better control of the application rate and a neater job.

    I would be worried about a permanently closed volume like that slowly picking up moisture and never drying out. Made sure all compartments in mine can be opened - even the void under the seat. Inflated wine cask bladders or plastic milk bottles could be put in for flotation and small items packed together into containers. Good luck with it anyhow.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  10. #54
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    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Default

    Agree with concerns about moisture ingress.
    To address them the space is triple coated in pox.
    As per attached drawing, I leave a tiny hole at the very peak of the deck by inserting a
    piece of thin wire when glueing in the bulkhead, & pulling it out when the pox is dry
    enough. When inverted in storage, as the compartment "breathes", air is inhaled, and
    any accumulated water is expelled. That's the theory anyway. Not as good as an
    inspection port, but seems to be holding up ok on this boat's predecessors.
    cheers
    AJ

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Default

    Wandered into DFWB today to see what things there might leap out at me.
    A tub of soft fairing filler did.
    The price tag on a tube of Sika 391 did too. Slapped me across the face a couple of
    times. So I put it back on the shelf. Epoxy in a syringe wins on price.

    Found a bit of electrical conduit & some dowell that was a loose fit.
    Couple of feet of duct tape later & Voila !! Syringe-on-a-stick !!
    Perfect for adding sedative to that 'difficult' patient...

    Ended up being only moderately difficult. Keeping constant pressure on the plunger
    from 4 ft away while making tiny movements of the nozzle 4ft 6in away was a bit
    tricky, but manageable.

    Syringe was too fat to fit in keel angle of the bow. Fixed by feel with a gloved finger
    inserted via the forward hatch.
    Wire is visible in the bow shots - will remove tomorrow to create breather hole.
    Gaps were a bit variable, but nothing a wee drop of pox couldn't hide... er.. fix.
    Rear fillet finished with square ended ice-cream stick (by feel via aft hatch).
    Forward fillet finished with finger (dry, gloved, by feel via forrard hatch).

    Will have to QC inspect them tomorrow with binoculars or summat. Can't get close
    enough to see if I've left any unwanted holes using Mk.1 eyeball, naked or bespectacled.
    cheers
    AJ

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Age
    66
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    631

    Default

    You get the Surgeon's Award in the 'Most inaccessible Place' category.

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob540 View Post
    You get the Surgeon's Award in the 'Most inaccessible Place' category.

    Sounds uncomfortable... not sure I want to accept it.

  14. #58
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    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
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    561

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    No, those fillets are too rough - now take them out and start again!

    Seriously, a remarkable effort . Reminds me of the gynaecologist who took a midlife career change to become an automotive engineer. In the final exam he had to replace the rings and bearings in a small engine and although he only just finished in time they gave him a special merit award for doing the entire job through the exhaust port!

    Have to ask - is there any reason why you didn't put the bulkheads in before installing the deck? It would have only left the top join to be filleted.

    I like the idea of the breather hole.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  15. #59
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    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    Quote Originally Posted by labr@ View Post
    Have to ask - is there any reason why you didn't put the bulkheads in before installing
    the deck? It would have only left the top join to be filleted.
    Yep. Sure is a reason.
    Seam taping, in my view, is a more important structural element than bulkheads.
    Can't run the inner seam tape all the way to the tips of the boat with a bulkhead installed.

    Ask me how I know this.

    On second thoughts, don't. Another one of those "jigsaw moments" (4 boats ago).

    in about that order.

    Breather hole isn't original. My 1980's 16ft Rosco had them in its miniscule buoyancy
    boxes, but wrongly located to expel condensate & other imbibed moisture.

    cheers
    AJ

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
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    More gratuitous pics...

    removing the wire for the breather hole... front compartment = ok.
    Rear compartment...
    Wire snapped off. Couldn't remove.
    So I drilled a 1mm hole instead.

    Pics show glassing of the deck - another coat to hide the weave to be applied tomorrow.

    Made a significant whoopsie on the third batch of pox during wet-out.
    Was thinking of other things when I returned to the baot from the shed,
    picked up the brush & started spreading. After about 10 seconds I realised
    the pox seemed a bit runny (air temp only 16C - next 20+C day forcast in
    about 5 months time...) Another 10 seconds staring at it trying to understand...
    Then it dawned on me I'd forgotten to mix the pox & was wetting cloth with neat
    hardener... etc.
    Quickly located Stanley knife & excised the glass, plus a bit. Grabbed cloth &
    mopped up as much as possible from the bare wood underneath. Hopped from
    foot to foot for a bit trying to decide what to do with the fractionally damp remainder.
    Decided the tiny remnant would possibly interact with a coat of mixed pox &
    hopefully not delaminate immediately. Hopefully. Cut a piece of glass to cover the
    gap and ***thoroughly mixed the epoxy*** before continuing...

    15/5/09 - Yesterday's poxing went off just enough to be able to sand off the worst of
    the lumps, bumps, doublings & edges this morning. Green enough still to glug AlOx
    paper. Second coat has filled the weave nicely & covered the sandings. This 2 oz
    glass is soooo easy to use compared with 6oz, & takes soooo little resin to wet & fill.
    A teensy bit of sanding filler tomorrow along the edges of the glass will complete
    the sheathing. Just the coaming ring & 2 bulkheads left to glue in place, a heap
    of sanding & painting, and attaching fittings.

    Rightly or wrongly I am starting to feel like the end is in sight.

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