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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

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    What a great thread - and a great boat! I'm green, blue, red and yellow with envy ;). I'm only sorry that I didn't catch up with it early last year - I've been so focussed on my own verbosity build mistakes that I haven't had my head above the bulwarks, so to speak, very much until recently (i.e., Lost in My Own Little World(TM)). I noticed the references to some fool who insists on tolerances of 0.01 mm - in wood, fer goodness' sake! What a dingbat. I'd steer clear of him, looks like a right nutter.

    Pics of the Onka mouth made me homesick (again). <sigh> I miss Adelaide a lot.

    Anyway, back to important things: lots of useful tips, especially with the hook-up wire in concert with your reply on the Eureka thread and to my PMs. Are you selling your plan(s)? I have been thinking that a single-seat kayak would be a useful supplement to the 2-person Eureka (and the 'Duck, and the Goat, and...).

    Cheers,
    Alex
    The "Tolerance" Nutter

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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,787

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    Been having a long hard re-think about how I went about building this.
    (I blame Alex for that. )

    Several boats ago, I did briefly consider making up a 'traditional' kayak former
    using a single beam through the middle of the moulds. Put in the too hard basket
    - too much number-crunching figuring out where the beam should go. In any
    case, I felt (correctly) that I didn't have the skill to cut the mounting holes
    or the beam accurately enough. My poor addled brain found it easier to cope
    with aligning 3 moulds on a ladder frame, then turning them over & doing the
    aligning all over again at a later date.

    OneOcean kayaks Kayak mold has a great tutorial
    on building & aligning moulds on a central spine or beam. Using the tips &
    tricks Vaclav Stejskal outlines, it is clear that 6 moulds can be set up for the
    same effort as doing 3 twice, resulting in (hopefully) a fairer boat.

    So I've revisited the design, faired up a couple of wobbles & squared up some
    station points to allow moulds to be made for those points. Then worn the
    numbers off the calculator figuring out where the spine/beam should fit. Just
    about finished drawing the beam up & sanity checking the revised station
    mould and panel measurements.

    So... once the retaining wall is re-built, the paving relaid, the yard rehabilitated,
    the pergola redesigned & rebuilt, & the chooks complete their PTSD counselling
    from living through all the above, I guess I'll have to build another to test the
    method & theory. or maybe

    It is said that life is what happens while you are making other plans...
    Building my 'real' sailing boat doesn't seem to be getting any closer. but on
    the bright side, by the tiime I get to it, I might even have a shed to build it in.

  4. #123
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Age
    71
    Posts
    631

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    Sounds like a sensible resolution, you've learnt so much about what works and this can only add sophistication to your method and your understanding of the hull.
    I admire your patience
    What caused the Pacific War? A book to read: here

    http://middlething.blogspot.com/

  5. #124
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    A picture, as the saying goes, is worth a thousand words - a useful drawing that :).

    Cheers,
    Alex

  6. #125
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Aberfoyle Park SA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,787

    Default

    CB130-19.jpg Pic for Bogart
    Alan J

    Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer

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