15th May 2017, 09:10 PM #1
ICF Compliant Sit & Switch C1 Canoe
For the last year or so I have been competing in the NSW Marathon Series paddling a TC1 that I built during 2015. I decide it was time to see if I could design, build and paddle a slightly quicker canoe. I worked on the design for a year or so, but had to sell a couple of kayaks to get enough room and to get permission to start construction towards the end of March.
I am far too old to paddle a high kneeler C1, so I designed a Sit & Switch C1. Like my previous projects, it was designed with Kayak Foundry and built mostly from Paulownia.
As an ICF compliant C1, it is almost 5.2 metres long with a bit over 2.8 metres open between the front and back deck. I decided that 56cm maximum beam and 51cm waterline beam should give me enough stability to enjoy paddling the canoe. While I have to set the seat much lower than in my TC1, it seems to have about the stability that I need.
In the past I have always used an internal strongback because the construction techniques I use wouldn’t work well with an external strongback. However, those problems wouldn’t be an issue with this canoe, so I tried an external strongback.
Early indications are that it is about 0.5km/h quicker than the TC1, which cuts about 4 minutes off my time for 10km.
IMGP2425_phatch.jpgIMGP2427_phatch.jpgIMGP2583.jpgIMGP2585.jpgIMGP2590.jpgLane Cove 3.jpg
15th May 2017 09:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Advertising world
15th May 2017, 09:52 PM #2
15th May 2017, 10:17 PM #3
Nicely done Andrew.
Cheers, Ian"The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"
15th May 2017, 10:55 PM #4
The strips started as 25 mm thick rough sawn planks. I used to dress my timber down to 19 mm because all the information available from the USA mentioned 3/4" wide strips. This particular batch of timber had both sides cleaned up by the time they were reduced to 24 mm. As the design doesn't have the hard chines found on some kayaks, there was no advantage in turning any more of the timber into shavings. The slightly wider strips caused no problems during construction.
I build sea kayaks with 5 mm thick strips, K1 racing kayaks from 3.5 mm strips and the strips for this canoe were ripped at 4.5 mm. I figured the slightly wider, flatter open hull would benefit from a bit more stiffness.
The glass is one layer of 85 gsm or roughly 3 oz inside and out.
There is a minimum legal weight of 10 kg for a C1, so all I am prepared to say about the weight is that as long as I use a heavy seat, it will will reach the minimum legal weight.
16th May 2017, 10:48 AM #5
Allan you're the only person I know of that has to make an effort to get a boat over the minimum weight - I wish had that problem.
Congratulations on another work of practical art.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
By MWF FEED in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 0Last Post: 6th Jul 2016, 06:40 PM
By Boatmik in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 205Last Post: 17th Dec 2012, 11:54 AM
By Boatmik in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat PlansReplies: 8Last Post: 24th Feb 2010, 07:34 AM
By Bad Woodworker in forum KAYAK & CANOE BUILDINGReplies: 9Last Post: 1st Jul 2008, 10:21 PM