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31st July 2006, 09:18 PM #1
Advice: Good Rip blade for 17" Bandsaw ?
Hi,
I've been reading the blade discussion a few threds below with interest. I bought the XXXXX-XXX 17" SBW-4300CE Bandsaw a few months ago and have been using it with great results so far (using the supplied blade). I'm at the stage now where I want to try to fine tune the set-up and start using it for ripping - not necessarily really thin veneers but at least decent ripping with minimal wastage.
I've been going off Mark Duginske's DVD & Bandsaw book but my question is what sort of blade should I go for as a good all purpose ripping blade for my bandsaw, blade type / TPI etc....???? Also has anyone used the 'Woodslicer' blades, are these worth considering???
Also the specs for my saw say Blade Length should be 3345mm so I guess that should be what I order????
Gotta feel for Wongo though!!!! ...
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31st July 2006, 11:18 PM #2
Ring Henrys Bros, they'll sort it out.
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1st August 2006, 11:41 AM #3
BrettC,
Have the same Bandsaw, and the first extra blade I used was a XXXXX-XXX 1" 3TPI resaw blade. Worked well but just couldn't quite keep up with resawing 12" boards. Went to XXXXX Bros, and I think it was a WoodSlicer? (it's etched as Wood something "Woodmaster" perhaps, I will check tonight if you want) 1 or 1.25" 1.5TPI and it does the job. The only difference in setup was the XXXXX-XXX blade is quite thick (and stiff) so it didn't wander as much, the WoodXXXX blade is thinner, and more flexible, so wandered quite a bit until I cranked up the tension. Even though it is a thinner blade, the slight wander because of the "thinness" makes for a slightly rougher cut, but I live with that since I can resaw 12" boards with relative impunity.
I just quoted the same length you gave, can't remember whether I had to do a lot of adjustment, but it fitted and I was happy.
Good Luck,
ChrisIf you can't laugh at yourself, you could be missing out on the joke of the century - E.Everidge
the Banksiaman
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4th August 2006, 11:54 AM #4Returning Member
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I have an 18" Jet. For re-sawing I use a 1" bi-metal with 1 tooth per inch. Big teeth too. It is a fabulous blade - looks scary - but actually cuts much cleaner than you would expect. It is also relatively stiff, but tracks and cuts very straight with only the recommended tension for this width of blade. Some issues to consider:
1 - the big problem with thick rip cuts is clearing the cuttings - big teeth widely spaced are the key here.
2 - if you can't clear the cuttings it will bog. You mightn't even particularly notice. When it isn't properly clearing the cuttings, apart from not cutting well the blade will heat up and you'll lose the set on the teeth. You'll end up pushing harder which induces warping which results in cuts that aren't straight. Then even though your thin kerf notionally means less wood wastage in the end you lose more wood thicknessing out the non-straight cut.
3 - As a rule, if you find yourself wanting to to use more tension than the recommended, then don't. Look to this as the problem.
Hope this helps. Not sure which brand my bi-metal blade is.
QwAll short sentences in economics are wrong.
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4th August 2006, 12:08 PM #5
My saw (17" 4300 Leda variant) is fitted with a 3tpi 1" blade for resawing. I've cut some 10" logs with no problem but haven't got to 12" or over yet.
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6th August 2006, 09:43 PM #6
Thanks for replies.
I tried to get hold of a 1" 3 TPI this week-end but just happened to be the one type of blade with the vacant spot on the wall .
The 1TPI blade sounds interesting, I guess that is what they call a skip tooth blade.
Still am not sure about he WoodSlicer blades but might make a few calls this week.
Cheers.
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