Thread: Band Saw Blade Sharpening.

Well done Issatree. We can amaze ourselves sometimes just by having a go. Did you you have to reset the teeth as well?

Hi Gary,
No, I didn't touch them. The Video Chap didn't do it either, as I had a second look.
For all you take off, you would not even realise.
Still can't believe how well it worked & how easy it was.
Actually, I had been toying with the Idea of setting up a jig for the Angle Grinder, but this by far the easiest.
Thanks for your Reply. There are certainly a lot of lookers, but next to no replies.

RE: !MM CUT-OFF WHEELS for SHARPENING!!!

I was a Sales Rep in the ABRASIVES industry , until I retired 2 1/2 years ago.

Cut-off wheels 1mm thick have 2 light layers of glass reinforcement, they will not absorb side pressure for very long before they tear the center out or fly apart.

What I would recommend is a 3.2mm Depressed center GRINDING WHEEL , these have 3 layers of heavier glass reinforcement , these will tolerate the side pressure , and do the same job with out the danger of wheel failure.

Remember it is your body which is in the firing line if these give up the ghost at 9,000-12,000 rpm.

I have seen first hand the injuries that Wheels can inflict on people , and many have been KILLED , through miss use of the wheels for purposes which they were never designed for.

PLEASE BE WARNED, THE MANUFACTURER WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR INJURIES.

Jeff
vk4

Hi Jeff,
Where in Vic. wood I pick up some of those 3 layer wheels.

any welding supplier should have them, the spec are basically as follows

100x 3.2x16mm dc grinding metal
there are wheels for 100/115/125mm grinders, the Thickness may vary 3.2- 3.4 mm

If you need them they will be available from any good welding supply store, you can ring PFERD Abrasives , ask for sales and they will direct you to you nearest supplier.

I worked for PFERD for 3 years.

Jeff
vk4

Hi Jeff,
I most likely didn't make Myself clear, as you are speaking of Angle Grinder Cutoff Wheels, & I was thinking of the ones for a Dremel or like I have is a G Force Moto Tool.
Those 3.2's would be too thick to do a 6TPI Blade, but I do have PFERD Wheels, but I Like the thin 2mm. Wheels.
Thanks for your input.

Hey Issa ... I don't know if you saw my mental blunderings trying to figure out about sharpening my 1" blade ...

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ba...pening-159918/

I have a video using an angle-grinder with grinding wheel - in the end - but the diamond and chainsaw file options are interesting too.

Cheers,
Paul

Isatree,

I use my Dremel as well, but I use the Pink grind stone and shape it to have a beveled edge, this allows me to get right into the gullet of the small blades I use.

My band Saw is only a 230mm wheel, and takes thin blades 3mm, 6mm, 10mm, 3 &6 TPI.

Cheers

Jeff
vk4

Originally Posted by issatree

if the Blade wants to move to the right, then you have the wrong angle.

What type of blade was it, Issatree? bimetal, TCT?

You said that if the blade moves to the right it means that you are grinding at the wrong angle, presumably because it is trying to take off more material, but do you think that there might be anything to be gained by bracing the blade by clamping it between a couple of pieces of wood, leaving the teeth exposed? maybe clamping the bracing blocks to the fence for added stability?

Just a thought

Doug

Hi Doug, & Others,
Not sure if it is Bimetal, as I don't know anything about it. Tried to Sharpen with a Ezy Lap Red Fine, but it cut a mark in the Ezy Lap.
The Blade I bought from McDiven's is Swedish, Hakkasson? (Spelling) & I was told that they were not keen on Starret Blade.
Had it a few years now, as I get 12 Blades from 100ft. & it is in Feet.
Mine is a Skip Tooth 3/8in. x 6TPI. & I'm almost on my last length of Blade.
The Length of Blade for My B/Saw is 2375mm. Long.
I think you may know that I Braze My own Blades. Very easy to do.

I woodn't think it would be worth the time to Stop the Blade from wandering.
When I appeared to have the correct angle there was no problem.

Thanks to all who replied, as it is good to get feed back, no matter what is written.

A carbon-steel blade is all the same metal. A bi-metal is HSS about down to the gullets ... and looks a bit like the modern hard-tooth saws with the darkened weld area. Carbide-tipped has the little tips like a circular saw blade.

Compare these videos ... the guy with the wood-block, chainsaw file and speed-controlled angle-grinder vs the dremel/die-grinder guy.






Re brazing bands ... do you butt-join or scarf?

Thanks,
Paul

With Braze Joints , they have to be a Lap Joint , Braze needs the length for strength,.

I have just sharpened my Blade with my Dremel, and the blade cuts very well now, was getting very blunt,.

Method is as follows:
1 remove blade from band saw
2 place in holder,
3 place Dremel wheel against tooth at 90 Deg to blade
4 move blade along as each section is done
5 replace on Band Saw and test.

Very simplified the Dremel wheel is beveled on the rear face that grinds the tooth, bring the wheel to the teeth at 90Deg to the blade, with the Dremel tilted so hat the bevel maintains the RAKE angle of the tooth face , I don't know if this is strictly correct but it works .

The Blades for my machine are hardened teeth and the blade is only 1425mm long, .


Jeff
vk4

Hi Jeff,
I put a Bevel on Opposing Edges, & My Mate made me a Jig to hold the overlapping Blade ends.
I then flatten the Silver Solder, & cut about 1/8in. off. Lift one side & place S/S Between the Bevels.
I put White Out on either side of the Join to be, & then put the Flux over the Join.
The W/O stops the S/S from Running. I will reply later, about my Heater ???.

Re the Blade Sharpening, I Face the Blade, not like the shown Dremel on the side, but of course you have to do that because of the Sharpening Sleeve in the Dremel.
You also Gullet the Blade, where as, having only done it once, I don't think it wood work with the Sandpaper Discs, but it might.
Lewis.