Thread: Band saw tune up

I wandered out the shed after watching that video and gave it a go, just for giggles.

I followed his instructions pretty much to the letter on a Jet JWBS-18Xa.

On a 1" blade the tracking, tension, alignment and adjustments all went as he suggested. A sample cut was pretty good. I have not tested for drift yet as it was getting a bit late to fire up machinery. I might have another play tomorrow.

Based on what I have seen so far I can only agree that what he says in the video is accurate.

My favourite suggestion is to remove the table, he is right, access and everything else is simplified.

EDIT: I found it useful when setting the tracking to use a white wax pencil to run a line down the centre of the wheel. Then I could see the line in the gullet more easily.

Originally Posted by Mini

I also question his assertion that running the saw on the bearings causes the blade to overheat, surely the saw passing through the timber will cause more heat than revolving bearings.

We all know metal on metal will definitely cause heat, but I have heard, and I think it may have even been in this video, that the wood actually absorbs the heat created by the blade running through it, which stops the blade heating up. That also makes some sense.

I still think the assertion that the bearings overheat the band is stretching things a bit. What I think may be more the case is that the weld is subject to being bent back and forth by the bearings as it passes through them and gets fatigued by this action then breaks.

Regarding heat buildup, cutting the timber does provide some heat, as any friction will do, I fail to see how an insulator such as wood could draw heat away. The bearings will heat up through both internal and external friction but like others I doubt the claim they will have a significant effect unless they are firmly in contact with the blade (eg. pinching it). The blade will also heat up somewhat through constant flexing as it goes over the wheels, this is unavoidable.

I tend to agree with Mini that the weld heating more than the rest of the blade makes more sense for the casual observer. This may make a good case for buying blades with a well prepared weld as it should last longer; maybe it also makes a case for tidying up the weld prior to use if necessary.

If the kerf of the blade is wider than the blade unless the wood closes up after the cut wet wood or dry the blade should not come into contact after the teeth have cut.

Heat transfers no matter what even if a small gap between surfaces.

Pull a piece of string. cord or what ever between your fingers slow or fast vary the grip.