Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
Today I purchased a 1/2" Bi-Metal blade for $30 and a 3/4" for $16 Carbon blade from McDriven saws. The reason for the carbon blade was that McDriven said that a 3/4" blade in bi-metal on a 14" Woodfast would result in metal fatigue and cracking because it would be in heavier gauge. I also decided to spring for the carbon blade because I could use the worn out blade in time top make some small tools like hook, marking & chip knives.

I am holding off on buying a Lenox Tungsten carbide blade since I do not have the cash $170 at 19mm and secondly it was a cheaper risk to buy two blades to figure out how the machine works and how the blades would fit. I opted to get a 2520mm long blade, the old blade that came with the machine was 2525mm long. I decided to wind the wheels down and up to their highest and lowest points. The distance measured 2520 at the shortest and 2540 t the longest.

I installed the 3/4" blade. It was a good choice that I did not go wider. As the 3/4" just fits I had to push the bottom thrust wheel fully back to get the blade to fit. It ripped through some vicAsh and Malaysian tropical hardwood with absolute ease.

I also purchased a Kreg Bandsaw fence from Carbatec who had them on sale. A nice piece of kit. I am however have a few minor problems with it. Mainly with the nylon screws that are meant to be used to adjust the fence into square with the bed. The screws protrude and get in the way of the work piece, causing it to rock. I think I need to drop the fence a little lower so that it sit a little more below the table.

I also want to drill two new holes in the bed on the outfeed side of the table, and then turn the table 180 so I can leave the fence in the place when I need to remove the blade at the moment I need to remove the fence before I can remove the blade. Which is a pain to set up to a parallel depth to the top of the table bed.

I configured the saw and fence and am able to rip 40 thick x 1000mm long stock with 0.3mm drift over the entire distance. Is this okay or can I do better with my setup?

The bandsaw cost me $150, plus $300 for the motor, plus $160 for the fence plus $46 for two blades. I am in the process of stripping the paint and will have it professionally sprayed in time. I also want to get new guides and a few bits and bobs from Carter in the USA to make the machine sing. So it is going to cost me almost $1000 but in the end I will have a sweet machine and I would have learned a bucket load about bandsaws.
Hi thumbsucker
I think John Samuel gave you very good advice when he recommended a max of 19mm blade for your 14' bandsaw. My view that a 16mm 3-4 skip tooth would be be even better because you can achieve greater band tension.

You also might like to consider the thickness of the blades, the backing material and the tooth material when you choose a blade.

Thick blades require greater force to tension correctly and are more susceptible to cracking on 14" wheels. Hard backed compared to flex back blades have similar problems.

With regard to Bimetal and Tungsten tipped blades remember Bimetal blades actually start out sharper than Tungsten tipped but blunt more quickly with hard or abrasive woods
I am sure you will enjoy your saw.
Cheers
Ron