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  1. #1
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    Default cutting pvc pipe on angle

    want to cut slices of 100mm pvc pipe at 30* angles.

    drop saw is too small diameter so figured the band saw but how to cut on angles...please dont say tilt the table...
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

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  3. #2
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    Ive seen many a plumber doing this with a reciprocating saw you might have to set up a jig to get the angle spot on though

    Regards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonto View Post
    want to cut slices of 100mm pvc pipe at 30* angles.

    drop saw is too small diameter so figured the band saw but how to cut on angles...please dont say tilt the table...
    Mitre slide will get you to 45º if you want more you need to add a 45º jig.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Make a litre box with the angle to cut at whatever you want.
    Use a sharp handsaw(it may not be whdn you are finished)the bladevwill follow the litre box

    Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

  6. #5
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    Be careful cutting pipe on a bandsaw as it has a habit of getting ripped out of your hands and bending or breaking blades. Been there and done that. A mitre box and a cheap Bunnings hard point saw might be safer unless you can secure the pipe to prevent it rotating.

  7. #6
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    DO NOT RECOMMEND!

    Not unless you have a fine-toothed 'metal-working' BS blade... something around 20-25tpi and, preferably, with a negative rake.

    I have destroyed more woodworking BS blades cutting damn PVC pipe than anything else, even when using a log cradle. I keep thinking "just this once."

    Come to that, not on ANY power tool with a hooked tooth blade. I've shattered many a pipe and soiled my pants 'cos I was to lazy to change the SCMS blade to a neg. rake.

    A mitre-box and hand-saw is one way to go. In the field I'll make a cardboard sleeve as a quick template - if making multiple cuts - to repeatedly mark a line and cut by hand with a hack-saw.

    It's really, really not worth taking shortcuts.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
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    OK so educate me here please.... I can can cut 100mm PVC on a metal drop saw, round blade no teeth, I can cut it on a mitre compound sliding saw no problem, but thats a big blade and I value what fingers I have left so therefore thinking of bandsaw.

    What about fiberglass pipe? same ???
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  9. #8
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    Any round form should not be cut on a bandsaw if you value your blade, your fingers and the piece being cut. You can liken it to a climb cut on a router table, the blade or bit grabs it and you are just a spectator after that.
    CHRIS

  10. #9
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    Apr 2004
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    Yes, I agree with Chris above.
    I had some scary moments cross-cutting roundish logs for firewood and they started rolling and then jammed & deformed the blade.
    So I had to build a cross-cutting jig to feel safer - it's still scary though.
    New Zealand

  11. #10
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    I agree unless you are very experienced you shouldn’t cut round stuff on a Bandsaw.
    The Proffessional Officer at UNSW tried it with some 1/2” dowel, he wasn’t holding it tightly enough so off it went. Accelerated up to the speed of the blade and climbed up the blade. He hadn’t adjusted the guard down. The blade bit again and when it hit the table broke the blade. He never came into the workshop after that. I cut round stuff all the time and in 55 years had never had a problem.
    Small diameter stuff just hold tight use you fingers to jamb it from starting to roll away from you.
    Bigger stuff screw or clamp scrap onto it. PVC pipe I’ve had no probs, same on table saw, clamped to sliding table. On a big bandsaw with blades you trust you can do amazing stuff provided you always have the stuff positioned so the downforce of the cut is supported on the table and the blade can’t roll it and your hand into the line of cut.
    I am very conservative when showing students bandsaw use and demo the round spin trick(with the saw rotated by hand). I also show them that having your hands on the table will stop them going into the blade if the cut suddenly accelerates. Always keeping them out of the line of cut just in case.
    Push sticks of the correct shape should be used where appropriate.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    DO NOT RECOMMEND!

    Not unless you have a fine-toothed 'metal-working' BS blade... something around 20-25tpi and, preferably, with a negative rake.
    Not sure that's a good idea. Unless I really hold back the PVC the 10-14 variable pitch blade on my much slower speed metal cutting bandsaw clogs after a few mm of cut and then tries to melt its way through the PVC.

    I've cut many hundreds of pieces for the 140-150 mm long x 100 or 150 mm diameter PVC segments for Bell mouth hoods using a 6 TPI band on my WW BS and have never had a climbing cut. No clamping needed if you just take it steady but sometimes on short pieces I do clamp it as follows..
    Clamp two blocks of wood to the inboard opening of the PVC, one block in front of the cut and the other behind- this also gives you something secure to hang onto.

    BTW I have experienced some climbing cuts with 3 and 4 TPI blades. Not good.

  13. #12
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    Com'n guys where are all the thrill seekers fair info though point taken, no serious round cutting on band saw.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

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