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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    3

    Default Hammer N4400 Fence Lock

    Hello,

    I've got some great advice and information on this site on how to adjust/tune my Hammer N4400. I know that some have mentioned a fix for the lateral movement in the fence on locking it down, but cannot find any details on these fixes.

    When the fence is locked down onto it's round guide bar, it moves about 1mm closer to the blade, bringing it slightly out of square.

    Can anyone outline their fix for this?

    Many thanks,

    Paul

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,826

    Default

    Hi Paul

    I think that it is the nature of the design that it does this. I suspect that it is due to the amount of free play around the round guide bar. I had my fence replaced as the first had too much free play. The replacement is a tight fit. Some move more than others as a result. Mine moves very little.

    I suggest that you take up the slack with the locking lever - as much as possible before it tighten, but can still move - move into position, then tighten fully. That should reduce any undesired movement.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Hi Paul,
    yeh, the fence on my Hammer N4400 does that little twitch to the right on the final locking tight.
    I have learnt to make allowance for it doing this which is fine for most of my cutting as I usually plane what comes off the bandsaw anyway.
    If I have to get very accurate with the cut, then I have 2 to 3 goes with nudging the fence unit until I get the spacing tween fence and blade right.

    Here is a link to an article where the person has replaced the fence with a Kreg fence for probably the above reason - the article doesn't explain how they mounted the Kreg to the Hammer:
    http://fpartner2009.felder-group.com...400bandsaw.pdf

    Paul
    New Zealand

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    The fence on my Minimax is rubbish so I am replacing the rails with linear bearing rails, one on each side of the table and will use the same fence. Or you can do something like this....

    CHRIS

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks for all the replies. I may try and come up with some way of taking up that slack at the mounts as you've suggested Derek. I'll let you all know what the Felder rep has to say.

    Thanks. Paul

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,826

    Default

    Paul, I checked my fence today. With the locking lever loose, there is about 1mm of wiggle at the blade. If I tightened up from full loose, there is about 0.5 - 1mm swing inward. However, when I take up the slack - just enough with the fence able to be moved with a thumb pushing the locking section - then the amount of movement at the blade when full tightened down is about 0.1mm

    I took a video on my phone if you need to see this, and will post it if really needed. But try first and let us know what you experience.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Thanks Derek. This has helped some (I think they're may be a bit more slack in my fence) but does still involve some faffing around and compensating. Having paid so much money one would like a fence which locks at the position it's placed. Hopefully other positives can outweigh it over, hopefully, many years of use.

    Thanks for all the help.

    Paul

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