Thread: HF 16A getting CoPlanar

Resident Bp16A man at your service.
1. make sure the nut on the bottom wheel is tight, that is, the bottom wheel is seated fully on the shaft. This could be your problem, it was with mine.

2. I think you already know this part. Only the bottom wheel is adjustable. You will notice that the mechanism holding the bottom wheel is mounted using three studs with a nut on the end, these are adjustable. Look through the bottom wheel to the end of these studs and you will see that they have a screwdriver slot in them, so loosen the lock nuts on the outside of the case and screw to suit , then tighten the locknuts.

Originally Posted by Termite

Resident Bp16A man at your service.
1. make sure the nut on the bottom wheel is tight, that is, the bottom wheel is seated fully on the shaft. This could be your problem, it was with mine.

2. I think you already know this part. Only the bottom wheel is adjustable. You will notice that the mechanism holding the bottom wheel is mounted using three studs with a nut on the end, these are adjustable. Look through the bottom wheel to the end of these studs and you will see that they have a screwdriver slot in them, so loosen the lock nuts on the outside of the case and screw to suit , then tighten the locknuts.

Thanks Termite, great to have an expert around! I'll report my findings tomorrow. Hopefully you're right and that bottom nut is not fully tightened, because the bottom plate can't be more than 5mm from the back of the cabinet.

Could you possibly measure the distance from the inside edge of the bottom wheel to the back of the cabinet for me to give me an idea how far it's out?

I'd tinker with it now, but I have sworn that I won't play with machinery after consuming any grog. Got a nice bp reducing red under the belt at the moment

Michael

Get down to the library & get out one, or more, of the bandsaw 'how to' books. They all seem to have a section on curing all possible bandsaw problems.

The top wheel/bottom wheel thing - Termite has pointed out a possible assembly problem, which at 10mm difference sounds like the go, but if that is not the case, you will need some washers of varying thickness & some sound mechanics tools to take the top wheel off its axle & shim it out.

Read the book first, at least once.

Originally Posted by woodbe

Thanks Termite, great to have an expert around! I'll report my findings tomorrow. Hopefully you're right and that bottom nut is not fully tightened, because the bottom plate can't be more than 5mm from the back of the cabinet.

Could you possibly measure the distance from the inside edge of the bottom wheel to the back of the cabinet for me to give me an idea how far it's out?

I'd tinker with it now, but I have sworn that I won't play with machinery after consuming any grog. Got a nice bp reducing red under the belt at the moment

Michael

Think I'll wait and see how this turns out before I hand over my hard-earned cash for one ......

Originally Posted by TTIT

Think I'll wait and see how this turns out before I hand over my hard-earned cash for one ......

You may be suprised how many forum members have one, they are good value for money.

Originally Posted by woodbe

Could you possibly measure the distance from the inside edge of the bottom wheel to the back of the cabinet for me to give me an idea how far it's out?Michael

My mounting plate is about 5-6 mm off the back of the cabinet.

Thanks Termite,

I tried tightening the nut on the lower wheel, but it was already pretty tight, so I sat down and had a good look and measure with the tape. What I found was that both wheels were tilted out at the top- The bottom wheel measured 98mm at the top, and 87mm at the bottom (face of wheel to back of cabinet).

So, I loosened the locknuts like you said and tinkered till I had the lower wheel as straight as I could - it took a bit of fiddling, because the measurement would alter each time I tightened the bolts, and I found out that the front face of the cabinet is not exactly parallel to the back. Then I attached all my measuring jig back up and it was nearly spot on, didn't take much after that.

I fitted the 25mm blade and adjusted the guides. Did a lot of hand turning to re-assure myself the blade would not come off the front of the wheels. It was riding a fair bit forward, so I landed up tilting the top wheel a bit to bring it back a bit. You can see how it is sitting in the photo below.

Anyway, once it was looking like it would all behave, I resawed a bit of scrap pine, the blade chewed through it like it was butter Then I resawed one of my cypress logs. You can see I'm a beginner by the variable saw patterns on the finished timber. I found the log would bind for no real reason on the table - I think I should sand that surface a bit so that there is nothing to catch in future. Also need another feed roller to support the work on the way out.

It's all good! Thanks for your help all of you, and TTIT you can go buy one now, it's a ripper

Originally Posted by woodbe

I found the log would bind for no real reason on the table - I think I should sand that surface a bit so that there is nothing to catch in future.

I also have a BP16a and find that timber can bind when passing through the blade by the plastic insert in the table around the blade. The insert does not sit flush with the table top and often snags timber. It may be best to replace this with a home made jobbie.

I also have a BP16a and find that timber can bind when passing through the blade by the plastic insert in the table around the blade. The insert does not sit flush with the table top and often snags timber. It may be best to replace this with a home made jobbie.

Yep, find the same with mine, at this stage I haven't replaced but it's on the long to do list.

H.

Woodbe,

nice work.

Himzo.

G'day Woodbe,

Glad to see that you now have your B/S wheels co-planar.

It's a pity your down in Adelaide, as I have a pile of reg dum and blackwood that needs resawing - thought that you might benefit from the practice

As to the plastic blade table insert, I've replaced mine with one made out of MDF and sanded till it's just exactly flush with the table top. Why the manufacturers of these bits of kit can't get a simple thing like that right irks me no end... Maybe that's one of the reasons why they suggest "well, our next model up is..." etc, etc.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

G'day Woodbe,

Glad to see that you now have your B/S wheels co-planar.

It's a pity your down in Adelaide, as I have a pile of reg dum and blackwood that needs resawing - thought that you might benefit from the practice

As to the plastic blade table insert, I've replaced mine with one made out of MDF and sanded till it's just exactly flush with the table top. Why the manufacturers of these bits of kit can't get a simple thing like that right irks me no end... Maybe that's one of the reasons why they suggest "well, our next model up is..." etc, etc.

Cheers!

Haha. send it over, If I get anything out of it, you can have half

I'll have to investigate a replacement table insert...

Regards,

Michael

OK so I'm convinced! All I have to do now is con my son-in-law in to picking it up on his way back from the Gold Coast - freight costs out here to the sticks is more than it's worth.

Originally Posted by himzol

Yep, find the same with mine, at this stage I haven't replaced but it's on the long to do list.

H.

Woodbe,

nice work.

Himzo.

I resawed a piece of Redgum yesterday, and in the process, the last slice split and banged into the insert, breaking it in two - so that problem is solved

I've ordered another, and might do what you suggest and make my own down the track. Anyway, I spent some time today cleaning up, and had a close look at the table.

There is a groove that runs from the front to the insert (the one for loading blades) if you run your finger down it, you will find it's verry rough. Same goes for all the other edges - around the insert, the mitre slots and the front edge - no wonder the wood was jagging, I think it would jag even with a perfect insert.

I spent a bit of time on the edges with a fine file and 400 grade wet n dry, and they're all as smooth as now. There's a hint in Duginski's Bandsaw Handbook (P145/146) about inserts that basicaly says to keep the front edge of the insert lower than the table, and the rear edge slightly higher than the table to avoid snags. I'll give that a try before I make my own.

Michael

Michael,

Yep I did the Duginski thing, put electrical tape on the rear side of the insert to bring it flush & have left the front lower, no more timber 'not moving' moments now

MKB