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Thread: Kity 12" band saw
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5th March 2013, 05:49 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Kity 12" band saw
Hi, years ago I bought a Kity 12" bandsaw from the Richmond Carbatec. I have never been very happy with it but a coarse Henry Bros blade has made a difference with resawing. Blade drift is all over the place!! The upper guides are bearings & the lower guides are wooden. I use Jarrah. The wheels are flat, so the blade's teeth are brought slightly over the front of the wheel, not on the crown as per most bandsaws. Has anyone made this critter work properly? Pete
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5th March 2013 05:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th March 2013, 07:37 AM #2
What do you exactly mean? I assume you are referring to properly install the band saw blade. The gullet should stay on the center of the wheel. Try reading this , not sure though if this can help.
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6th March 2013, 07:48 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Kity 12 bandsaw
Thanks Bosox, I have owned the machine from new & have the manual. The wheels are flat, not crowned. The manual clearly describes all adjustments & clearly positions the teeth just off the edge of the wheel, so as not to chew up the tires. I am really looking for a response from other owners & their experiences. It is a cute machine but frustrating. I payed $1750 for it 10 years ago & wish I had that amount to spend again, so much choice, such quality!!! Pete
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6th March 2013, 12:05 PM #4Senior Member
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Thanks Pete, you've unwittingly just clued me in how to set the blade for my new/used bandsaw ( https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ce...-450nl-166960/ )
I suspect that I will replace the lower wooden guides with bearing guides of the home made variety if I encounter problems such as you describe.
You've obviously used the saw a fair bit and I guess you would have checked the obvious suspects first off.
- Sharp Blade
- Blade Tension
- Table is Square to the blade
- Fence has been adjusted for blade drift if you use a fence (youtube has some good videos on that)
I'm sure there are a few more things, like ensuring all your guides are correctly adjusted, but if you are working from the manual then i'd hope you've done all that already.
Good luck, send us some pictures and let us know how you go.
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6th March 2013, 12:58 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Kity 12" bandsaw
Thanks Simon,
You're right, I have had the machine in bits!! The lower guides are are tight (see attached). I have tried Carter Products for a replacement. I would like to use ceramic or cool blocks but it only allows for 12 X10 mm blocks. I have built an adjustable fence but the drift still varies. Have also thought about having crown tires fitted so the blade are centred. Pete
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6th March 2013, 02:17 PM #6Senior Member
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I guess the other things which may or may not have checked already would be that the bandsaw wheels are parallel, as per these artilces from the ccwwa.org website?
http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup1.pdf
http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup2.pdf
http://www.ccwwa.org/NEWSITE/plans/BandsawTuneup3.pdf
What sort of material are you cutting and what is the blade?
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6th March 2013, 02:57 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Kity 12" bandsaw
Hi Simon,
I will read them after work, but the first adjustment I made was to ensure the wheels were parallel. I refer to The Bandsaw Book for help. The blade is a Henry Bros 1.5 TPI resaw blade which cuts well but the cut wanders! The scroll blade is the original 1/4" fine blade & works OK. Mainly resawing Silky Oak, Redgum & Jarrah as I have bucket loads! Peter
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8th March 2013, 01:03 AM #8Retired
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I just bought a second hand 14" generic Chinese BS. It was a real POS disappointment.
I replaced all the "bearings" with new ball bairings (eBay) and new neoprene tires top and bottom. Amazon has a huge selection.
Runs like a charm now. Makes me Santa bigger one now!
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8th March 2013, 07:49 AM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Kity 12" bandsaw
Thanks Evan, I have checked the bearings as well. Read the pdfs that Simon posted & will get a new blade from McDivens & try the Michael Fortune tips. It is amazing how much info & varied approaches are out there. The big shortcoming with my saw, I think, is the lack of support for the back of the blade on the lower guide, so fingers crossed!! Pete
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8th March 2013, 09:32 AM #10Senior Member
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Do you think you could bolt on a thurst bearing anywhere under or above the existing blade guides?
Have you checked out carter bearings to see if they do an after market one?
Would be interested to see what sort of cut you get when experiencing blade drift.
Cheers
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8th March 2013, 09:57 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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Kity 12" bandsaw
Hi Simon,
I spoke extensively with Carters to no avail. See attached pic. As I mentioned to Evan, I will get a new blade as per Fortune's tips, set the fence parallel & tweak with tension!!? To date I am using a single point fence with the resaw blade & the cut is rough. Earlier, with the wide Kity blade, I was getting a bowed cut..... Pete
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10th March 2013, 05:57 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Here Kity!!
Thanks for all the tips. Simon's links have made me look at all the settings again. I have squared the fence to the table accurately, fiddled with the tension & the position of the blade on the wheel, squared the fence to the mitre slot, resquared the table to the blade & managed to cleave off a 3 mm X 120 mm veneer of Silky Oak. Very nice! I have found that I needed to be more aggressive controlling any tendency to drift by forcing the piece against the fence. The 2 TPI Henry Bros blade is a little rough but with more practice, I'm sure the feed rate will solve that! Cheers, Pete
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13th March 2013, 07:40 AM #13
Glad to hear that you've successfully managed to solve the problem with your band saw. Choosing the correct TPI is really important and somehow critical as well as the accuracy of the feed rate.
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