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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    14

    Default Mahogany resawing. Blade killer!

    I scored a 14” bandsaw from a neighbour of a mate who was downsizing. It’s been a bit of a cash trap as it’s been breaking on me in various ways since I got it (snapped both trunions when I first moved it, new blade guards, new wheel rubbers, bimetal 3tpi 3/4” blade, drive wheel came loose).
    Still I’ve learned a lot and it was a score at a few hundred.
    I’ve been using it to Resaw wood and the softer stuff goes through it well. But I have a number of what I believe to be mahogany logs which are about 11cm in diameter and 1m long and when I try to resaw them I’m lucky to get more than 10 cuts in and the blade stops cutting to the point that it’s putting out burnt sawdust and smelling of smoke.
    The blade gets coated with a powdery residue after several cuts so i was wondering if this was affecting the cutting efficiency but I think it’s just dulling the blade as there’s no issues initially. Only after several successful cuts.
    I have quite a bit of unsawn timber and a fair bit of it hardwood. Would I benefit from a carbide tipped blade or is the 14” just too underpowered all around for this resawing application?
    The chap from the store I get my blades from said i should be using a 1 tpi blade as the 3 tpi is likely not clearing the waste well and over heating and dulling. Unfortunately, on paper, the bandsaw only takes max 3/4” blades and the 1tpi blades seem to be 1”.

    Any advice on a way forward?

    thanks Matt
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Mexico. Actual Mexico not Victoria.
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Personally I'd be swapping out the blade to a TCT blade at 1.3tpi, that's what I run and have no problems. I don't think the blade width will be that much of a drama as it should sit towards you on the wheels, and don't be shy on the tensioning.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Thanks. I figured the TCT would be next best step but it’s good to have confirmation.
    Cheers!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Some further pics showing the build up on the current bimetal blade and the wheel width.

    I don’t think I’ll be able to have a one inch blade on there now that I’ve checked and measured. 1” is really the full width of the wheel between the rims and if it’s not perfectly centered it will ruin the tooth setting. I can’t seem to find any suppliers that sell any carbide tipped blades that are narrower at my blade length of 92.5” and less than 3tpi .

    First world problems .

    Anyone got any suppliers to recommend? I’m In Brisbane, Queensland but happy to order online nationally.
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    932

    Default

    Henry Bros. do 1.3TPI 3/4" and 2TPI, 1/2" carbon blades. They can make up blades to your size. Laguna Resaw King blades are TCT and available in 3/4" - but you'd likely have to order it in from overseas.

    What is your dust collection like? It certainly looks like waste removal is an issue.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I jam a 1hp 10cm dust collector hose against the gap at the bottom of the bandsaw and hope for the best .... So it could definitely be better.

    The bandsaw is an old WA-14m and there isn't really any dedicated dust collection connection so I'm guilty of neglect in that regard. I'll do some searching to see how best to modify to improve the waste removal.

    Thanks for the tip re Henry Bros, I'll check them out.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    lower eyre peninsular
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mattpwalker View Post
    I jam a 1hp 10cm dust collector hose against the gap at the bottom of the bandsaw and hope for the best .... So it could definitely be better.

    The bandsaw is an old WA-14m and there isn't really any dedicated dust collection connection so I'm guilty of neglect in that regard. I'll do some searching to see how best to modify to improve the waste removal.

    Thanks for the tip re Henry Bros, I'll check them out.
    theres a whole section here on dust and the removal and remedies of such. be prepared for a big learning curve, remember above all else your health is the most important.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,354

    Default

    The best dust removal system in the world is useless if the blade isn't scavenging properly... and that certainly looks to be your problem.

    Moving to TCT will alleviate the quick bluntening to a degree, but if it's choking as badly as it seems you'll still be generating a lot of heat at the cutting edge and that's not doing the timber itself any kindness. You'll likely see increased problems with surface checking, etc. on the cut boards.

    A lower tooth count - or, maybe, larger gullets - would be the cure, whereas TC is just a band-aid.

    Provided your tyres are a couple of mm clear of the wheel itself, you should be able to squeeze a 1" blade in there. The margins seem close enough and blades are cheap enough that I'd at least buy and try one before ruling it out... I'd rather waste a few bucks on a "useless" blade than lose the same cost in timber, time & labour.

    After all, you could resell the blade!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I agree the choking is likely due to the depth and tpi but I still feel like the hardwooods that I’m going to be putting through will inevitably eat up the bimetal blades.

    From reports the TCT blades last up to 5 times longer and can be resharpened where the bimetal blades can’t be sharpened without affecting their ideal geometry (I was told this.. not sure it’s true or not)

    I might do one more bimetal blade. See if the 1” wide and 1tpi lasts longer. They go for about $50 so it’s a slightly kinder price range to test a 1” blade.

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